Wrench too long... other tool suggestion?

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Hi all, little update, after replacing the valve (using combination of the pliers, basin wrench and unscrewing from inside the tank!!!) I've attempted to close up and switch on the mains. But now I have a leak from the (metal) nut in question. Depending on where I screw to it's only a regular drop, but either too high/low and it's a steady pour.

Would I be right to use something like a sealer/putty/tape on the nut? It's a bit alarming as none of the Youtube videos for valve change discuss what to do if there is a leak at this point - they all just magically reconnect 😂

Thanks for any help
 
Since you're disconnecting it now anyway...

Maybe time to switch to a braided supply line (hose), and possibly a local shutoff valve, WIll make dealing with any future maintenance and repair a lot easier.
 
It just occurred to me that if the fill-valve was a Fluidmaster, you usually don't need to replace the whole assembly. What usually wears out is the easily accessible rubber seal, which runs under $3 at any hardware -OR- you can swap out the assembly from inside the tank. I think we all got lost in the ozone of removing the nut, while ignoring the purpose of the repair. Oooops.

REPLACE THE RUBBER SEAL --- Link-1

REPLACE ASSEMBLY FROM INSIDE TANK --- Link-2
 
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It just occurred to me that if the fill-valve was a Fluidmaster, you usually don't need to replace the whole assembly. What usually wears out is the easily accessible rubber seal, which runs under $3 at any hardware -OR- you can swap out the assembly from inside the tank. I think we all got lost in the ozone of removing the nut, while ignoring the purpose of the repair. Oooops.

REPLACE THE RUBBER SEAL --- Link-1

REPLACE ASSEMBLY FROM INSIDE TANK --- Link-2

Oh dear....... you are entirely correct. It IS a fluidmaster and this would have totally worked!!

Unfortunately I've bought the tools, removed the old valve, bought a WRONG valve, and scraped all the old sealant away!!!

So I've just ordered a replacement fluidmaster (the old one wasn't in the best condition) and will get the paste tomorrow to help seal it at the bottom.

But you know what? I'm determined to do a good job on this, and I've learnt a lot about tools. The wrenches and pliers are great and I know the pliers will be useful elsewhere. I've also found this forum with great help at every turn.

Thanks all for the inputs, and my mrs is waiting to get the toilet back to normal 😂🤣😂
 
Paste?
Paste? No, it goes together with a rubber seal INSIDE the tank ( or "Cistern" ) which is designed to work without any additional paste, tape, mud, plastic, etc., etc.
If it won't seal as designed, then the Cistern is deformed, or has some sort of deposit where the rubber washer makes it's seal. If there are some deposits, clean them off, if the tank itself is irregular there, all bets are off.

Have a look at the instructions from Fluidmaster. (By chance. found the version for the UK, which I'm *guessing* is slightly different from the US version.)


Fluidmaster.JPG
 
Thanks for sending that through - yes the rubber seal works fine and no issue there.

I'm still struggling to connect to to the tap connector/nut without leaving a leak. I tried with ptfe tape, but then couldn't get the connector fully over the tail (after 6 wraparounds of tape) so will try again tonight, say after 3-4 wraparounds. Fingers crossed
 
I have a *hunch* that the nut-connection you're using is ancient, and may have used a rubber washer as a seal between the flush-valve and the pipe. The original washer/seal may have hardened over the years, and fallen out, self-destructed, or is just in the eay INSIDE the nut.

Have a look at the flexible connectors in use today, in the UK. To see what I mean, drop in at plumbing section of your local hardware store, and have a look at how these are made up:

flex.jpg
Look inside that final nut on your supply line (small mirror from wife's compact?) and see if anything is there. If I'm right, remove remnants after you find a similar size, maybe 1/8" thick flat washer, and install that new one. The screw threads you're covering with teflon tape are (most probably) NOT designed to make a water tight seal, they're for mechanical pressure between two pipes with a flexible seal between.
Good Luck !!
 

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