Working out details of PEX potable replacement

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joraff

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Waco, TX
Hi all. I'm planning to replace an aging galvanized potable supply with a home-run PEX system. Our house has about a 20" crawlspace where all the piping is located. I have a few details that I'm having difficulty picturing how to do...

1. Lowest impact way of bringing new PEX up and out of the wall: I don't want to use copper stub outs because I don't have any experience soldering pipes, so I want to use some kind of bend support and bracket system. The only ones I've found are full-span stud brackets, but I'd like to make the smallest hole possible to minimize drywall repairs. I'm not necessarily concerned with shutoffs for the sinks because I'll have a manifold, but I will need to support a shutoff at the toilets. Any recommended solution?

2. Drill through floor joists for the routing, or just use clamps? (crawlspace)

3. Should I add a loop before going vertical to allow for thermal expansion?

4. From the manifold - where the piping groups leave the utility closet and enter the crawl space - can this be sealed with any kind of expanding foam sealant without reacting or degrading the poly?

Thanks for your input!
 
1. If you are installing a manifold block with individual shutoffs for each fixture, what would the need be for a second shutoff at the toilet?

2. Whenever possible, I would try to avoid drilling floor joists. They are a load bearing, structural member, and it is a good idea to leave them alone.

3. I wouldn't bother adding an expansion loop. Just don't pull the bend tight where the piping turns up to the vertical.

4. Contact the piping manufacturer. They should have a "don't use" list of products.
 
Some city codes require shut off valves regardless of having a "home run" shut down valves. Just check and confirm before deciding whether or not to install valves.
 
I don't think our code specifies (IPC 2009+DEF, no relevant city amendments), but as for having a second shutoff at the toilet: simply for convenience. Most guests, I assume, will look for that shutoff if the toilet starts to overflow on them. I'd rather spare them the em-bare-ass-ment :D of having to yell for me. It could also be the difference of having a clean, dry floor, and a floor with... deposits... all over it.

I'd consider just drilling a hole straight through the floor and into the cabinetry, but the bathrooms and kitchen already have wall-to-wall tile. Plus, I'd rather not confine myself or any future owner to cabinetry. Some people just like those pedestals.

Here are some products that I've found, but don't know much about:
PR05.jpg

PR07.jpg


I like the size of the first one, but don't know how easy it will be to screw into a stud without making a large hole in the sheetrock. The second one would require more demo, but I have more flexibility in where to position the stub out. Hmm..

I found these kits today online. They're new, so I don't know if any local plumbing supply will have them, but it looks to solve my concern of appearance when exiting the wall.
toilet_conn.jpg

Quick-Connect Stop Trim and Connector Kits - New Products - Watts
 
Those are good looking kits. Why don't you call the company and ask them who has them in stock?
 

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