Wirsbo-Uponor Manifold P2110500 fittings?

[ResqDogz]

Well, the copper lines some "professed plumber" buried under concrete in the garden level of my 1900 Victorian back on the mid-80's finally started leaking: Time to run the PEX lines overhead, rather than buried copper... and eventually extend 1/2" lines of the manifold up one floor to the kitchen, and then port 3/4" hot/cold feeds up two floors to redo the entire master bathroom.

Acquired four of Wirsbo-Uponor P2110500 Manifolds (new) a $30 each (currently en route to me), but need to adapt into 3/4" copper feed: Does anyone know the specific thread for the 1" male flow-through ports on the end of these?

Hoping to find a reducer from the 1" port to 3/4", so all I need do is couple the copper and 3/4" PEX lines together, as opposed to deploying a 1" PEX off the port, then adding an inline reducer to 3/4" PEX, and finally connecting to the 3/4" copper...

Uponor can't even find this manifold in their catalogs, anywhere...

Any suggestions (or source for NOS parts) would be most gratefully appreciated!

Thanks!

Steve

 

[Twowaxhack]

Why not just use a few tees ? Do you really want to run home run pipe to each fixture ?

To answer your question, no idea what thread it has. I would guess IPS.

 

[ResqDogz]

Why not just use a few tees ? Do you really want to run home run pipe to each fixture ?

To answer your question, no idea what thread it has. I would guess IPS.

Manifolds were acquired in order to isolate each 1/2" fixture to facilitate future replacement needs. My query pertains to the 1" male manifold ports only, which I need to "step down" to 3/4"....

 

[Twowaxhack]

Manifolds were acquired in order to isolate each 1/2" fixture to facilitate future replacement needs. My query pertains to the 1" male manifold ports only, which I need to "step down" to 3/4"....

It’s NPT pipe threads.

It’s called a reducer, not a step down.


Goodluck

 

[ResqDogz]

It’s NPT pipe threads.

It’s called a reducer, not a step down.


Goodluck

Thanks!

I'm aware the connector itself is called a "reducer"... I was hoping for a direct such reduction from the 1" male threaded through-port down to a 3/4" to match/mate with the copper...

If you look closely at what's visible on the yellow card in the images I included, you'll see it clear states the threads are NOT standard/NPT - but proprietary to Wirsbo/Uponor, which is why came here seeking advice from those who may have had experience with this particular type/model of manifold!

They're supposed to arrive either tomorrow or Thursday, so I may just have to wait-and-see... and try to hit-or-miss match at local plumbing supply sources.

Was hoping against hope someone here might have NOS source suggestions?

 

[Twowaxhack]

Sounds like you bought a discontinued item.

I don’t understand why uponor doesn’t have the swivel adapters or any record of having them in the past if they manufactured the product.

It points that the product isn’t supported......why would you want to install a product that the manufacturer doesn’t support at the time of install ?

It’s a gimmick system........IMO. It’s not serviceable.

 

[Twowaxhack]

Here is viega version

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Viega-50151-1-PEX-Crimp-x-Manabloc-Supply-Adapter-plastic
Probably isn’t interchangeable because all that crap is proprietary design. But it’s similar to what you’re wanting.

 

[ResqDogz]

Sounds like you bought a discontinued item.

I don’t understand why uponor doesn’t have the swivel adapters or any record of having them in the past if they manufactured the product.

It points that the product isn’t supported......why would you want to install a product that the manufacturer doesn’t support at the time of install ?

It’s a gimmick system........IMO. It’s not serviceable.

The price was unbeatable (vs. well over $100 for contemporary copper manifolds), so I took a chance...
Lost my employment due to critical injury, followed by surgery at the Mayo Clinic (still in rehab) and subsequent damage during PT... so couldn't afford a) the leak, nor b) the pricier"fix"... sigh...

 

[ResqDogz]

Here is viega version

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Viega-50151-1-PEX-Crimp-x-Manabloc-Supply-Adapter-plastic
Probably isn’t interchangeable because all that crap is proprietary design. But it’s similar to what you’re wanting.

Yup - that's the 1" connection, but hoped to find a single step reducer (1" connection down to 3/4"), rather that having to add 1" PEX - reducer - 3/4" PEX - connector - 3/4" copper...
Thanks for your continuing dialog and suggestions!

 

[Twowaxhack]

Use fittings and build manifolds and put the stop valves at the fixture.

simple, less pipe, serviceable.

Less is better.

 

[ResqDogz]

Here's the response I received from Supply House:

"The manabloc supply threading is not compatible with Uponor manifolds to my knowledge, I believe the Uponor manifolds use a European threading for their supply ports while the Viega Manabloc supply threading is either a 1" or 1-1/4" straight mechanical thread.

Hopefully this helps!

Best regards,

David Product Support"

Here is viega version

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Viega-50151-1-PEX-Crimp-x-Manabloc-Supply-Adapter-plastic
Probably isn’t interchangeable because all that crap is proprietary design. But it’s similar to what you’re wanting.

 

[ResqDogz]

Use fittings and build manifolds and put the stop valves at the fixture.

simple, less pipe, serviceable.

Less is better.

Plan to add shutoff valves for the toilet and sink, but still want to separate and isolate the shower lines (behind enclosed walls) on the manifolds. For the upper level master bath, I hope to run the 3/4" straight through to the Ultra Bath tub unit, and separate the toilet, two pedestal sinks and - again - the shower, each on their own lines (the sink will share a pair of "branched" lines, with each having their own shutoffs at the end point - so one could go down, and the other remain active if necessary)...

 

[Twowaxhack]

You can always add a stop valve to any line you want. A simple ballvalve.

Im not a fan of those manifold block systems. If one valve goes bad the entire assembly must be changed. The parts become obsolete, like you’re finding out.

I understand that’s what you want but it’s a terrible design.

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

I've had reason for different manifolds over the years, and like @Twowaxhack suggests, I built them.

First set was in a very tight location and I could not build them with standard fittings; they spaced out the ports way too far. So for that I had a custom copper manifold made by Alberta Custom Tee that featured 1.25" copper tubing with ½" stub-offs. I soldered adapters on the end of the stub offs and on the ends of the 1.25" tubing. I used Dahl Brothers valves, which are custom configured with fittings on either end (crimp, sweat, compression, NPT). While this wasn't a cheap setup, it wasn't nearly as costly as I thought it was going to be. This was in a radiant de-icing system, where you need 100% full flow on the branch lines, and the cheap, Chinese manifolds commonly available or sold by SupplyHouse were more suited to a radiant heat system in the home as opposed to a de-icing system which has completely different requirements.

The second manifold I made was out of standard parts, all bought "surplus" on eBay, etc. That is, valves, tees, etc. This was to create a manifold with two changeable inputs to supply the four hose bibbs outside my home with irrigation water during the season, and when the back flow is shut off and winterized, the ability to switch to regular water. It is a little tedious to screw this all together, but if you look around online, particularly on eBay, there are usually overstock and surplus valves and fittings usually at a much lower price than standard retail suppliers.

While most manufacturers stick to standardized threads some like to play games (as apparently they do here); when there's no reason to do so other than to lock you in on buying their parts and fittings, usually at a premium price. The common threads available for USA standard threads work just fine. In other parts of the world you may likely encounter metric threads in either tapered or straight, and there's even the British standards in the same.

https://www.cpcworldwide.com/Downloads/NPT.pdf
There's no question you got a good price on that from that eBay seller, but if you spend all kinds of money on special fittings, it's not such a deal any longer.