Whirlpool water heater stopped working

[copotay]

Hello all my first post, I have one of those Whirlpool energy smart water heater, 2 element, with that control panel on top. It’s 17 years old and last night my hot water was scalding hot, thought it was just an anomaly but today no hot water. Climbed in the attic and it’s giving me the 2 blink error code that water overheated, I said “you think”. The manual’s directions say to check the access doors and insulation are in place, well they have been for 17 years. Next is to check ohm resistance on the two elements which I will do tomorrow. But that’s it, I have changed elements and old style thermostats before, but this one throws me for a loop with this new type electronic control. Is it possible that a bad element would cause the water to overheat? All the elements I dealt with before would just not heat water. I have changed thermostats that went out after overheating the water but not an element. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[copotay]

Well tested both elements and both are good at 11.1 ohms so must have something to do with the control board

 

[HWSleuth]

One more element check, with power off, remove wires from both elements. Check each element screw to element’s head. You should get OL (open line), there should be no resistance. If you do it a grounded element that partially continues to work when water heater’s thermostat turns off. Temperature gets too hot (190*F), ECO (high temperature shut off) functions and shuts down heater. Replace element.

If not a bad element, may be a bad temp sensor (thermistor). Your manual should explain how to check those with a multimeter also. Involves checking ohms versus tank temperature.

However, 17 years? Probably more sensible to replace heater unless it’s an element. You can purchase elements local, they are standard. Sensor will need to come from factory (a couple of days with NextDay). If it’s a main control, probably best not to invest that kind of money.

 

[copotay]

Tks HW followed your directions for the elements and no resistance on either one showing that they would be grounded to the tank.

Tried to look for the temp sensor from the manuals diagram it looks like it sits behind the top element I couldn’t tell if it is with that insulation they have it so packed in there and they not showing in the manual how to test the sensor. I take pic out of the manual and try to attach.

 

[copotay]

I think I found where it’s at according to diagram and this screen shot from an online pdf

 

[HWSleuth]

https://bradfordwhitecorp.s3.amazon...iciency_ef120t_series_servicemanual_53597.pdf
I apologize, I’m not literate yet in cutting and pasting from my iPad yet. Down load this manual and look at page 19. This chart is relative to most sensors (thermistors). This procedure should be relevant to the sensor(s) on your heater.

FYI: When working on this control on this unit, give the control an unusual amount of time to “think”. Can’t tell you how many times I’ve made a repair and almost given up, then suddenly the control would complete it diagnostic check and begin to cycle!

 

[HWSleuth]

Also, the sensor may not be as accessible as seen in the shot you included. Best I remember the early bottom sensor was buried under the insulation.

 

[copotay]

Got u thanks, after checking elements again, with breaker shutoff, I turned breaker back on for its 10 minute diagnostics it runs through, light went solid green for 3 hours then began twice blinking again but the water was not steaming hot just warm, just FYI, so it really didn’t get to that extreme hot to cause control module to stop again like first time.

I appreciate your assistance and will let it sit overnight with the breaker off to see if the control module will rest and work.

I worked on older hot water heaters years ago with my father’s mobile home business, easy fix with regular old style thermostats that would go bad, also I know the water heaters are not supposed to last but 10-15 years but I know of numerous people that have 30 year old tanks still working and never changed thermostat and never changed an element, go figure, the new stuff can’t compare to the quality of the past.

I know u suggested replace tank if all else fails but when they built my house they stuck that big 50 gallon tank, before finishing house, in attic and no way to get it out or much less get a new skinny tank in through the one attic ladder I have in my master bedroom closet. That’s why trying to fix as is, instead of replacing. But if it becomes too costly I just have to invest in a tankless hot water system I know will be able to get into the attic without having to call a carpenter to reframe me a big enough hole in my carport area just to exchange a hot water tank.

So I will try and check the sensor and see , it’s just amazing the amount of insulation in this tank like 3 inches jammed packed in the walls of some white insulation compared to the old yellow fiberglass house insulation in the old tanks that you could at least move around, it’s crazy.

 

[copotay]

Tks for the help HW, ended up just changing it out since was 17 years old and the new one doesn’t have all that electronic trash on it

 

[TomFOhio]

If it overheated and now you have no hot water then it tripped the reset button. The thermostats are
bad and not shutting off the elements.

 

[sarg]

Replacing a 17 year old unit .......... that had never been serviced or had the anode rod changed every few years when deteriorated ...... was definetly the right move.