I hate compression valves; that's my personal opinion. Every valve will eventually fail, need repair, or replacement, and compression fit valves are "one and done". I like to do things such that they can be removed and replaced without a lot of fuss; I expect that I will be the one making the replacement, so I make it easy. Once you put that compression ring on, and tighten it down so that there are no leaks (as you note, it be quite a bit of torque on it) you'll never get that ring off without carefully sawing it. Usually the copper tubing (if we're talking about copper here) gets deformed in the process. As others note, you have to cut off and try again, but rarely is there enough excess tubing in which to do that. Compression on PEX is different.
In cases where I've had the ability and opportunity, I've soldered an MPT fitting on and used threaded valves. This isn't always possible of course.
In my home now, built in 2019, the stub outs for toilet water supply, and sink faucet supply, are dangling pieces of PEX. The "shut off" valves are these POS push/pull plastic things. The plumbers rarely left enough height for moldings or cover plates, a common problem. Just shoddy work. Personally if I were doing it (but of course the builders would say it's too costly) I'd have copper stub outs, rigidly attached to framing.
I have not had issue with the push on except for Watts as previously noted.
@Jeff Handy's comment about the valve body twisting is 100% correct but hasn't been an issue for me. Once all connected and not leaking things stay in place.
Good luck in whatever you choose!!