Well tank install - cheaper tanks...

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The problem was definitely the tank. The new tank is in and the water pressure is now fantastic. It took much longer than I expected and we had to make many trips to the local hardware stores. Still have three real slow drips - one coming from the left side of the PK1A and another very slow drip coming out of the stem that holds the gauge and switch box. And a third coming out of the plastic "hose" (where the water from the well comes into the house). I have taken off all the parts off (where there's a leak) at least three times and re taped them and tightened them back up and still I can't get a perfect connection.

I have two questions. Is it ok to use Goop or another one of those plumber type leak-fixing materials where the drips are coming from? I know once these types of materials are applied, there's no turning back. Also, on the left side of the PK1A, concerning that black plastic hose (water flowing into house). Is it ok to connect a better type of hose or tubing in where I can also use that crimping tool like we did with the 3/4" pvc pipe in the picture? Currently, the way it's set up, the bands that are on the black plastic hose doesn't seem to be tight enough to stop the leaking completely.

Thanks for any input.

Joe
 

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Just a couple suggestions
Use double clamps on each end of the (black) well pipe with the tightening screws 180 degrees from each other.
It is OK to use both tape & pipe dope on connections. As Mr. Austin explained to me ..... stainless steel can be tough to seal because there is no flex in the threads such as on brass etc . Just be careful not to get the dope inside the CSV.
( Also just to mentioned ........ a heat gun to warm the well pipe when using barbed fittings make life much easier )
 
Last edited:
Just a couple suggestions
Use double clamps on each end of the (black) well pipe with the tightening screws 180 degrees from each other.
It is OK to use both tape & pipe dope on connections. As Mr. Austin explained to me ..... stainless steel can be tough to seal because there is no flex in the threads such as on brass etc . Just be careful not to get the dope inside the CSV.
( Also just to mentioned ........ a heat gun to warm the well pipe when using barbed fittings make life much easier )
Thank you I will do that with the clamps. By heat gun do you mean a torch?
 
Nope ... torches make fire .... I'm a sissy . Only pros use torches.
A good ole electric heat gun ... same 1500 watt as a hair dryer only capable of getting hotter. Use caution not to get the plastic too hot .... it will melt.
 

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Nope ... torches make fire .... I'm a sissy . Only pros use torches.
A good ole electric heat gun ... same 1500 watt as a hair dryer only capable of getting hotter. Use caution not to get the plastic too hot .... it will melt.
Got it. Good to know. Thank you.
 
Just a couple suggestions
Use double clamps on each end of the (black) well pipe with the tightening screws 180 degrees from each other.
It is OK to use both tape & pipe dope on connections. As Mr. Austin explained to me ..... stainless steel can be tough to seal because there is no flex in the threads such as on brass etc . Just be careful not to get the dope inside the CSV.
( Also just to mentioned ........ a heat gun to warm the well pipe when using barbed fittings make life much easier )
Thanks. Makes sense - about the clamps. I may have to watch some videos on warming well pipes. Can understand how a heat gun would work on pvc but not on metal. I mean it seems like you would need extreme heat for that. I may have misunderstood what you meant.
 
I was referring to the polyethylene water pipe ... that's why I mentioned "barbed fittings".
 
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