Water Softener Connections and Drain

Discussion in 'Water Heaters and Softeners' started by ecovindaloo, Oct 31, 2018.

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  1. Oct 31, 2018 #1

    ecovindaloo

    ecovindaloo

    ecovindaloo

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    I recently purchased a water softener for my house. The issue is that my main copper water pipe is 1/2". The connection to the water softener is 1". So I was wondering what my best options are to make this pipe transition to the water softener?

    Also I would like to run the drain pipe through a wall of the house going outside. Do I need to do anything special so that the drain pipe won't freeze in the winter?
     
  2. Oct 31, 2018 #2

    Jamesplumbing06

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    First you can swap softener for a 3/4” one and be a little cheaper on ya. But for copper 1/2. Get 2 shark valve quarter turn valves. Pop those on. Then you can situate your lines neatly. Next you’ll need 2 brass threaded 1” elbows. This allows you turn pipe down immediatly. Then a brass bushing 1”male x 1/2 female. You can bridge the pipe with crimp pex or sharkbite. Sharkbite is more expensive but allows full flow. And this is your main so don’t use crimp pex. 2 sharkbite male adapters into the bushings and secure pipe to wall. I like neat square turns. But doesn’t hurt to loop the turns just secure it. PAY ATTENTION TO “IN” AND “OUT “ ORIENTATION on head. You put pressure to the “out “side coming in and you just ruined a lot of faucets.
     
  3. Oct 31, 2018 #3

    Jamesplumbing06

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    Teflon on plastic threads is tricky. I use 3 wraps starting on 3rd thread leaving first two. Then just a dabble of pipe thread sealer on those first 2 threads. Just a dabble goes a long way. Then hand tighten plus a turn and you should good. But your hands are on the wrench. Just don’t kill it. The brass threads will cut the plastic threads like a knife.
     
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  4. Nov 1, 2018 #4

    ExtraMilePlumbing

    ExtraMilePlumbing

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    cool info,sharbites don't worry you from blowing out in the future?
     
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  5. Nov 1, 2018 #5

    Jamesplumbing06

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  6. Nov 1, 2018 #6

    SHEPLMBR

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    I am still reeling from the main being 1/2"
     
  7. Nov 1, 2018 #7

    ecovindaloo

    ecovindaloo

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    It's an old house. I have no idea why the main is 1/2" either.

    Thanks for the information about making the connections from the main to the water softener.

    Any ideas what I need to do to create the outside line connection?

    Also is it better to add some cutoff valves going into the water softener or using the setup that comes with the water softener?
     
  8. Nov 1, 2018 #8

    Jamesplumbing06

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    I always create my own bypass with 2 tees 3 valves. Never hurts just more money. Pipe it the discharge into a gutter drain if you have any. If not. Dig a hole big enough to set 4-5 gallon buckets in. Keep grass remove dirt. Line hole with weed barrier. Fill hole with gravel. Pipe the backwash into that. Replace grass. They make a plastic tank that does this but this old redneck way of keeping skeeters away from hvac
     
  9. Nov 1, 2018 #9

    Jamesplumbing06

    Jamesplumbing06

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    Ehh don’t just bust out a shovel. Notice where your digging call local dig number and get things marked. Then find your area to make this.
     
  10. Nov 1, 2018 #10

    ecovindaloo

    ecovindaloo

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    I have land between my house and the next house below me. I can't just run a line out of the house and let the backwash go on the land?
     
  11. Nov 1, 2018 #11

    Jamesplumbing06

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    Yeah but keep in mind it’s 20 gallons a night. At least a splash guard to keep it from puddling in an area attracting mosquitos
     
  12. Nov 4, 2018 #12

    ecovindaloo

    ecovindaloo

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    Do I need to do anything special with the drain pipe to keep it from freezing in the winter?
     
  13. Nov 4, 2018 #13

    Jamesplumbing06

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    That’s a better question for a northern plumber. Not such of a concern here if ran where all the water drains from hose. But I hear it can cold enough to freeze before leaving hose. Just not in Tn
     
  14. Nov 9, 2018 at 6:16 PM #14

    TomFOhio

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    Don't you have a floor drain or maybe a laundry sink or something to drain into. That water that drains out will be salty
    and probably kill any grass or whatever it hits. The only suggestion I have if your definitely going to run the pipe outside
    is to wrap it good with pipe insulation and make sure it goes down hill. Check it now and then to make sure it hasn't froze
    over on the end of the pipe.
     
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  15. Nov 9, 2018 at 9:29 PM #15

    ecovindaloo

    ecovindaloo

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    I'm trying to avoid having the water softener drain into my septic system. It's an old septic system and I don't like the idea of putting salt water into it.

    The place where I would like the drain to go to would into an area that has no grass and just piles of leaves. So I'm not worried about the salt water's effect.

    Am I better off running a small PVC pipe and having the drain go through that pipe and just insulate the PVC pipe?
     
  16. Nov 9, 2018 at 9:44 PM #16

    voletl

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    Insulation only helps slow down heat loss. If the pipe has no heat source it will still freeze with insulation
     
  17. Nov 9, 2018 at 10:43 PM #17

    TomFOhio

    TomFOhio

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    Another thing you could look into is Frostex heat tape. It would keep the pipe warm and its safer than the heat tape
    that wraps around the pipe.
     
  18. Nov 10, 2018 at 12:29 PM #18

    Jamesplumbing06

    Jamesplumbing06

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    Not a bad idea but be sure some type of insulation. Freeze prevention here is really house specific. And no test till it’s too late. Luckily salt water takes longer to freeze or has to be really cold. Run it at a down slope to water from standing in pipe. double check a few nights till your comfortable and set regeneration time to a time where your still awake if freezing can happen . You don’t want that to blow off at 2 am. Lol.
     

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