The torque multiplier would need a steel bracket to attach to the leg of the multiplier then that would push against the side of the heater and prevent it from trying to turn.Right after I mounted the heater I replaced the copper pipe from the P&T valve with a hose that goes into the sink. In my entire 77 years I have never seen a P&T valve open.
The horizontal vent pipe? Don't know why it is horizontal. The new heater is exactly the same height as the old one, but its diameter is one inch larger, moving the vent pipe 1/2 inch farther away from the flue. Maybe that's the problem. No signs of condensation from it though. I'll keep an eye on it.
As far as the torque multiplier wrench goes, it won't stop the tank from turning when trying to use it to remove the anode.
Seems a 3-foot pipe would be a lot cheaper and more effective to boot.I’d buy one of these if I took anodes out.
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First off your hot water tank is not strapped to hold it in place during a earth quake. I do not know the regs in your area but if there was an earth quake the tank would fall and rip open the gas line.
In my vast experience as a homeowner who's replaced all of three electric water heaters in his life, that full tank won't stay in place if we're trying to loosen a frozen anode rod with a breaker bar.the tank will be full so it is not going to dance around like and empty one.