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water heater problem

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bikeboy

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I am having a water heating problem with my 50 gallon electric water heater. Tank is only a couple of years old. The water is chlorinated coming from the street. Living in Tennessee, The water line from street is only 18" below grade, and @ least 500 ft. before entering tank. With both thermostats set @ 120 deg. , I'll get 90deg. @tub spickit. when turned to max. reading 150 deg. @ tank, I'll get 110deg @ tub. This is after letting thermostats shut off heating elements, and set for a while . It's only a problem when i cant fill whirlpool tub, esp. in winter months. I tested the elements resistance, and continuity, voltage and amp draw. Elements seem to be good. Thermostats are set against tank. I've once cleaned the elements w/ clr to remove sediment. There is probably now some chlorine sediment around the anode rod and elements, but the thermostats are shutting off, @ given temps. The only thing I can come up w/ is the therms. aren't accurate. Also, when tub is filling, water has greenish tint. There is a notable difference, when ground water temperatures change, but shouldn't change heaters operation when resting.

What do I look for ?
HR...
 

Diehard

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I would start by checking the water temperature at the tank, while it's not flowing through the piping distribution. Either at the very first take off, on the hot water line leaving the tank, or by way of the tank drain valve.
That way you can try to narrowing down the problem a bit.

For example, if you were getting much hotter temps at the tank, there may be some crossover from the cold water side of a mixing valve somewhere. Mixing valve as in a single handle shower valve of even a single handle sink valve.
And of course, if the temps at the tank were substantially lower than the settings then you can concentrate you search at the heater.

I assume you are getting the same water symptoms at all your HW fixtures. Are you?
 

Jeff Handy

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Diehard is right, check the temp right at the tank drain first.

Also, is there a tempering valve on your heater?
That setup mixes cold water with the hot tank output, which then goes on to the house faucets.
 

bikeboy

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Diehard is right, check the temp right at the tank drain first.

Also, is there a tempering valve on your heater?
That setup mixes cold water with the hot tank output, which then goes on to the house faucets.
Well; No mixer on water heater. I checked temps @ the lower drain and upper pressure relief valve. Both therms are set @150; upper relief valve is reading 120, and @the relief valve just getting warm temp. When I ran water out of drain valve, lower element came on and is drawing current tested by loosing one screw on element and getting good arc., and still getting only 110 @ laundry tub. There it certainly shouldn't have a mixing valve. ?? I may have to pull the therms and elements to clean them, and either test again for continuity and resistance or replace and cross my fingers. I'm a retired electrician, and used to replace these parts all the time on service calls, but never tested for temperature, only if both elements pulled current and switch over. I figure if there was a short in one of the elements , it would eventually short out, but BOTH are pulling 4.4K watts. seems I had to run much hot water for the upper element to kick in ?? Thank You for reply...
 
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