I couldn't find a repair flange at the big box stores I went to. It looks like I can use a regular flange, because I just have a 4in pipe, and a fitting that is around the 4in pipe... but I cut that down so my diameter is the 4in pipe, but because of the extra fitting on the outside, the concrete is very thin where the flange needs to be screwed in.
warped flange heated floor
- Thread starter AirOp
- Start date
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The concrete usually is thin when you see an over the pipe flange. They had to have room to slip the flange over the pipe.
Use an inside the pipe flange. Solvent weld it in and do your best to get some screws to hold it down.
I have this same job tomorrow. I’ll post pics, I will most likely have the same issue as youre having. Mine is upstairs in a 70’ yr old house that had a new tile floor installed over a thick concrete base.
I have an inside pipe flange..I was thinking about sanding it or something, but the How tight should toilet flange be?
website gave me a clue that I should be better when the solvent goes on...
but now I am concerned about epoxying the broken concrete and tile stuff, and I am thinking about getting a diamond drill bit too, because of the tile, but that is less of a problem.
I am going to buy more epoxy... I squirted two small applicators of epoxy in, and shoulda bought a bigger one as now when I buy a bigger one I will have some left over.
I already have concrete bits, but no hammer drill.. I have been wanting an SDS drill but money is a bit tight.
website gave me a clue that I should be better when the solvent goes on...
but now I am concerned about epoxying the broken concrete and tile stuff, and I am thinking about getting a diamond drill bit too, because of the tile, but that is less of a problem.
I am going to buy more epoxy... I squirted two small applicators of epoxy in, and shoulda bought a bigger one as now when I buy a bigger one I will have some left over.
I already have concrete bits, but no hammer drill.. I have been wanting an SDS drill but money is a bit tight.
I am buying redhead a7+ concrete adhesive anchor, will fill the entire area, and then drill new holes.
I will put abs adhesive liberally on both parts of the pipe, and hope like hell it lets it slide in... because I was not able to dry fit.. If it doesn't go all the way down, I will apply more in hope it softens it.. and if it doesn't work, I will have pry tools available and will sand the new flange if I have to.
I am buying a regular corded hammer drill, even though I want the SDS brushless one... because it is probably good enough, and I can buy it later if I need it... but if I do need the sds later I will waste money, but it may also go on sale later..
I will put abs adhesive liberally on both parts of the pipe, and hope like hell it lets it slide in... because I was not able to dry fit.. If it doesn't go all the way down, I will apply more in hope it softens it.. and if it doesn't work, I will have pry tools available and will sand the new flange if I have to.
I am buying a regular corded hammer drill, even though I want the SDS brushless one... because it is probably good enough, and I can buy it later if I need it... but if I do need the sds later I will waste money, but it may also go on sale later..
The toilet I set today could not be anchored to the floor. There was nothing to anchor to.,
I was denied permission to cut the ceiling and add blocking.
I solvent welded the flange in, waited 2 hrs and set the toilet. I flipped the bowl upside down and applied 100% silicone to the surface that contacts the floor.
I set the toilet and snugged the bolts and left it. Told the man not to use it for 3 days.
So that’s that. When that silicone dries you won’t budge that toilet. You could take the nuts off the closet bolts and you’d have to donkey kick the bowl to get it up. I didn’t over tighten the closet bolts......
Invoice reads : Temporarily set toilet until ceiling can be cut to install blocking to secure flange. Access to ceiling was denied. Which really doesn’t release me from liability but I’m not too worried about it.
I was denied permission to cut the ceiling and add blocking.
I solvent welded the flange in, waited 2 hrs and set the toilet. I flipped the bowl upside down and applied 100% silicone to the surface that contacts the floor.
I set the toilet and snugged the bolts and left it. Told the man not to use it for 3 days.
So that’s that. When that silicone dries you won’t budge that toilet. You could take the nuts off the closet bolts and you’d have to donkey kick the bowl to get it up. I didn’t over tighten the closet bolts......
Invoice reads : Temporarily set toilet until ceiling can be cut to install blocking to secure flange. Access to ceiling was denied. Which really doesn’t release me from liability but I’m not too worried about it.
sewer gas smell from my toilet, I had been running floor heat agressively.
tightened it, smell went away for a while... there was a yucky color of water next to the toilet...
landlord wanted new elongated toilet with eady clean and good flush, so waited to fix until new toilet acquired.
took toilet off.
didn't recognize the flange.
figured out it was an ABS ring was bent and a 4in pipe with a fitting of some type on the outside, making for bolt holes very close to edge of concrete.
a pipe was way higher than the floor, maybe about an inch.
tried replacing the ABS ring with a stainless steel one that matched the hole alignment.. the toilet wouldn't seat.
.
cut off the part of the pipe was above the ring... the danco toilet ring was ruined, I knew the ring wasnt in good, but thought it might work.
I tried putting in a different types of anchors screw, they didn't hold, and the toilet wouldn't seat.. I realized I didn't need a repair flange, because the inside was unmolested. but repair flanges were thr same diameter as the flange that goes inside..
cut the 4in pipe flush with the floor.. I'm going with an ABS /stainless 3in outor4in in
got my phone covered in wax... but mostly clean wax.. trying to ask for help on forums here.
epoxied in the ring area... bought a hammer drill... aligning holes is tough, cut holes in tile
abs ring didn't go as far down as I wanted ... but it was close enough so I tried it... snapped 2 concrete screws .. but I didn't snap the drill bit..
went thru 4 rings total.
when I was down to the plain wax ring that we just happened to have, It may have worked, but I saw water come from under the toilet when testing... it could have just been there from before.
, ended up piecing together the elastomer ring that I chopped off the plastic flange and spread soft wax all over it because it had been in the garbage and had abs debris on it (I thought it was garbage, after it didn't seat, but it was just the flange being too high? and picked it out of the garbage to make one so I didn't have to go back to the store... )
the toilet feels solid.. ran water from the shower into it
I think If I have to do another flange on tile, I will chop out the tile and make sure the ring is very close to flush.
Perhaps the 4th try worked, but I had splashed water behind the toilet and it ran back up... and only looked like a leak...
5th time seemed to work. cleaned everything so any oder is from bad job.
tightened it, smell went away for a while... there was a yucky color of water next to the toilet...
landlord wanted new elongated toilet with eady clean and good flush, so waited to fix until new toilet acquired.
took toilet off.
didn't recognize the flange.
figured out it was an ABS ring was bent and a 4in pipe with a fitting of some type on the outside, making for bolt holes very close to edge of concrete.
a pipe was way higher than the floor, maybe about an inch.
tried replacing the ABS ring with a stainless steel one that matched the hole alignment.. the toilet wouldn't seat.
.
cut off the part of the pipe was above the ring... the danco toilet ring was ruined, I knew the ring wasnt in good, but thought it might work.
I tried putting in a different types of anchors screw, they didn't hold, and the toilet wouldn't seat.. I realized I didn't need a repair flange, because the inside was unmolested. but repair flanges were thr same diameter as the flange that goes inside..
cut the 4in pipe flush with the floor.. I'm going with an ABS /stainless 3in outor4in in
got my phone covered in wax... but mostly clean wax.. trying to ask for help on forums here.
epoxied in the ring area... bought a hammer drill... aligning holes is tough, cut holes in tile
abs ring didn't go as far down as I wanted ... but it was close enough so I tried it... snapped 2 concrete screws .. but I didn't snap the drill bit..
went thru 4 rings total.
when I was down to the plain wax ring that we just happened to have, It may have worked, but I saw water come from under the toilet when testing... it could have just been there from before.
, ended up piecing together the elastomer ring that I chopped off the plastic flange and spread soft wax all over it because it had been in the garbage and had abs debris on it (I thought it was garbage, after it didn't seat, but it was just the flange being too high? and picked it out of the garbage to make one so I didn't have to go back to the store... )
the toilet feels solid.. ran water from the shower into it
I think If I have to do another flange on tile, I will chop out the tile and make sure the ring is very close to flush.
Perhaps the 4th try worked, but I had splashed water behind the toilet and it ran back up... and only looked like a leak...
5th time seemed to work. cleaned everything so any oder is from bad job.
