Wall hung toilet replacement

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Luke Raiano

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I am attempting to replace a wall hung toilet in my parents house in prep for sale. (The 50 year old toilet was installed when the house was built, and is cracked/leaking on the floor of the bathroom when flushed). Replacement is an American Standard 2882.107 Glenwall. The closet carrier bolts (5/8") & waist outlet match in dimension. However, the new toilet requires the bolts to be 2 1/8" from the finished wall because the china is 1 1/2" thick at the mounting location (vs 1" on the old toilet). This leave the bolts about 5/8" too short to capture the mounting nuts. I've attempted to loosen the mounting bolts, but they look to be bottomed out. Looking for any options short of opening tiled the wall & replacing the bolts.

 
I had thought about that, but if the carrier looks anything like this:
p1203-nd4-1.jpg


my fear is (and remember, I know just enough to be dangerous), there would not be enough space with a small hole to get my hand & wrench back there to back it out + add a longer bolt. (The faint pencil line is the outline of the new toilet.)
 
hmmm..



i would replace the gasket, and see if that works befor replacing the toilet

how far up in the wall is the carrier?
do you have room for a rod coupling between carrier and china?

I had looked at a threaded sleeve: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Plain-Steel-Sleeves-for-5-8-Inch-Rod-Ends,8979.html
I could cut to length, mount the toilet with an appropriate length bolt, and then make up the difference in distance to the china with a bunch of washers. But the outside diameter is 7/8", and the through holes on the new toilet are about the same. So I'd need to Dremel the holes, and am unsure if that's a good idea (?)

re: trying the new gasket: the leaks I see are from cracks higher up on the bowl away from the wall. Still worth trying? The gasket was leaking behind the wall into the room below. We stopped using the toilet ( in anticipation of replacing it) so the leak (obviously) stopped. I checked the drain line alone without the toilet installed, so its not leaking in the carrier/waste line.
 
Those bolts screw right into that carrier. See if they will come out. Maybe they won't have a nut on the back. Get some 5/8"
threaded rod and cut them to the length you need.
 
I was thinking coupling extenders, as well.

Also, look at the American Standard installation manual. It actually shows "RETROFIT BOLT CAP", like they expected you may need them.

Install Manual.jpg
 
I had looked at a threaded sleeve: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Plain-Steel-Sleeves-for-5-8-Inch-Rod-Ends,8979.html
I could cut to length, mount the toilet with an appropriate length bolt, and then make up the difference in distance to the china with a bunch of washers. But the outside diameter is 7/8", and the through holes on the new toilet are about the same. So I'd need to Dremel the holes, and am unsure if that's a good idea (?)

re: trying the new gasket: the leaks I see are from cracks higher up on the bowl away from the wall. Still worth trying? The gasket was leaking behind the wall into the room below. We stopped using the toilet ( in anticipation of replacing it) so the leak (obviously) stopped. I checked the drain line alone without the toilet installed, so its not leaking in the carrier/waste line.


if the nipple is bad, change the nipple and gasket
that terlet, inless the china is busted, is still a good terlet
on a wall hung,
check the
the nipple to carrier face plate [threaded]
check
the face plate to carrier body [gasket]
check
nipple to china [gasket] are the only places a leak can occur

you need to check these,you might hang a new terlet and the carrier still leaks

p1203-nd4-1.jpg p1203-nd4-1.jpg
 
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