The biggest Sharkbite diameter I can find that they make is 3/4".You can use Sharkbite flex lines and Sharkbite fittings.
Or just use compression fittings on the copper, to add male or female adapters as needed.
Be sure to use flex hoses the same diameter as the copper lines, or even one size up
I hear this all the time. "My pump doesn't rapid cycle. I only hear it click every 5 minutes or so when using water." Well there are 1440 minutes in a day and a cycle every 5 minutes can be almost 300 cycles per day. This will kill a pump but when standing there listening to it the thing doesn't sound like it is cycling very often. Cycling every 5 minutes adds up quickly. And if it cycles every 2 minutes is is even worse. Any damage done to the pump/motor that could be causing the noise was probably also caused by cycling the pump.@Twowaxhack
Very interesting and thorough article but I dont think my setup has either of those problems. Definitely doesn't short cycle and it doesn't seem to have pressure switch chatter. The switch kicks on and runs consistently, with a vibration/hum from somewhere in the system, until it reaches 60 psi.
The flexible line you installed still looks like metal, and metal transmits vibration. I would cut the coper supply line as far back as you can and replace it with a rubber hose, they make hose that will easily withstand the pressure. I can faintly hear our pump when it's running, the well is only about 20 feet from the house. My wife can't hear it, so then it's not a problem!
I am still trying to avoid cutting the main 1" copper supply line to the house so my next step was to isolate the water pressure tank with a flexible line, to eliminate that as the possible source of the vibration. See below for pictures.
Once again I thought this was the fix. After I put the flexible line in to the pressure tank I turned the pump switch back on and the pressure tank filled up completely silent, no vibration at all. Then I opened the ball valve shutoff to the rest of the house. The next time the pump switched on the vibration was back.
I think I have asked this before but could it be the source of the vibration be this Watt's ball valve shutoff? (It has to be this or something else down the line from, cant imagine what else it could be)
I guess my next step is cutting into the main supply line to the house and installing a flexible hose. I would rather avoid this and replace/repair whatever the source of the vibration is.
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I am having a hard time finding 1 inch FIP flexible PCV/braided jacket. It seems like at 1 inch the only option is corrugated stainless steel like I have in the pictures.You can get short flex supply lines with threaded fittings.
The water line inside is flex pvc, the support jacket outside is braided stainless or pvc.
These flex supplies are used on water heaters, softeners, well tanks, filtration etc.
The pump is getting older, 18 years. When I go to the pump head outside and the pump runs I cannot hear any vibration which makes me think the origin of the vibration is somewhere in the house.We have had well systems for almost 50 years with submersible pumps, that develop 60 psi, and have always used 100 psi black plastic water line, and never had a problem. How old is your pump? Possibly it is failing, that's where the vibration is coming from.
The pump is getting older, 18 years. When I go to the pump head outside and the pump runs I cannot hear any vibration which makes me think the origin of the vibration is somewhere in the house.
I tried this with the outside hose running and turning all the valves I could find in the house off.I agree. It is going to be a leaky toilet valve or something in the house.
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