I have an issue with my urinal sloan flush valve, it is fed with raw water from a well that has too much sediment and creates issues where it leaks into the urinal and won't completely shut off. So I am thinking of using an old style valve that I saw years ago but do not know if they still make it or what it is called. The valve had a round knob that when turned it would let water flow and when you let go of the knob it would spring back and shut off the flow. Does anyone know if they still make this valve and what it is called thank you
Urinal Flush Valve
- Thread starter mrelmo
- Start date
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JG plumbing
Well-Known Member
If you just put new internals into the valve how long do you think they would last? I think a sloan rebuild kit is pretty cheap and they are easy to drop in.
https://sloanrepair.com/products/sloan-drop-in-repair-kit-dual-filtered-urinal-0-5-gpf-a1043a
These are also available in various water delivery volumes.
Maybe try one of these along with a sediment filter installed on at least the water line to the urinal.
These are also available in various water delivery volumes.
Maybe try one of these along with a sediment filter installed on at least the water line to the urinal.
My urinal is 1 gal per flush so I am looking for more volume than a .5 gal. I am trying to find a diagram that shows the water flow as it enters and exits during the flush. I believe the water enters around the edge of the diaphragm, and fills the area under the plastic cap the lever pushes the stem which lifts the stem slightly. But doesn't appear to open enough to get the full volume of water. So I don't understand the full mechanics under the plastic cap. You should not have to hold the flush lever down for a full flush correct? I don't understand the screw adjustment to let the water in, if you back it out too much the water keeps running what is it by passing.
JG plumbing
Well-Known Member
A flushometer is simply a type of float valve. When you flush to are pushing the float off of the seal or a solonoid is pushing it in the case of an "auto flush".
The water rushes into the chamber, the chamber equalizes the pressure letting the float fall back into the seal after a predetermined amount of water has passed.
The water rushes into the chamber, the chamber equalizes the pressure letting the float fall back into the seal after a predetermined amount of water has passed.
JG plumbing
Well-Known Member
Any valve you put into a gunky system is going to gunk. You can easily change the guts on a sloan valve and they are cheap and abundant and there are different varieties for volume.
Not sure about an older style more mechanical type of valve. It will gunk up but it may not gunk up as quick. Likley more expensive and harder to change.
Hence the reason I asked how long your current setup lasts.
Not sure about an older style more mechanical type of valve. It will gunk up but it may not gunk up as quick. Likley more expensive and harder to change.
Hence the reason I asked how long your current setup lasts.
Can you put a strainer before the flushometer????
Trying to avoid a sediment filter. However I was assuming that it is a sediment issue, I said it was a sloan valve, but it is a zurn, when I open the control valve it has constant water flow, so I thought that something was gummed up. After reading I see that water goes through a bypass to equalize pressure. On my diaphram there is a tiny plug that has cross hairs on it that looks like a phillips head would fit. Does this plug need to be removed to allow water to get above the diaphram. Or is there a bypass passage in the casting body to allow water to get above the diaphram.
Sloan valves and sediment doesn’t play well together. You’re fighting a losing battle. Filter the water or get rid of it.
That’s my official advise.
Goodluck.
That’s my official advise.
Goodluck.
JG plumbing
Well-Known Member
Replace the diaphragm. We don't repair them.
The diaphragm has a hole in it for the pressure to equalize. That’s how the valve shuts off. If the hole becomes clogged up the valve will run.
Your not getting the point. Changing to a different self closing valve will not fix your problem. It also has rubber parts that sit on a metal seat and if any grit or gunk gets in there it will wear out and or not shut completely. Zurn takes Sloan internals. Flushometers are self closing valves BTW. Your best bet is to put a sediment filter in, they are relatively inexpensive and would protect the rest of the house fixtures as well, and you wont have to change the valve. Saving money on that as well as was previously stated Sloan parts are cheap and plentiful.
