Upgrading to 1 1/4" Main Line

Support your community
shop deals on amazon
Shop deals on ebay
Advertise with us
Plumbing Forums

Help Support Plumbing Forums:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
We don’t size a septic tank based off how many toilets or sinks a house has.

Why would we size the water meter off unrealistic demand ?

Please, anyone answer that.
 
All I see is every one is missing the fact the yard hydrants are basically a stop and waste valve
they will require a double ck for a dedicated line or a double ck for each hydrant
1.5 meter is not needed. but. a 5/8'' is not large enough. I believe your water purvayer could swap out the 5/8 for a 7/8'' and yo will be golden. if yo want a 1.5 they are going to hit your pocket book , a new tap would be required and somewhere in the hood of 10k
 
frodo said:
All I see is every one is missing the fact the yard hydrants are basically a stop and waste valve
they will require a double ck for a dedicated line or a double ck for each hydrant
1.5 meter is not needed. but. a 5/8'' is not large enough. I believe your water purvayer could swap out the 5/8 for a 7/8'' and yo will be golden. if yo want a 1.5 they are going to hit your pocket book , a new tap would be required and somewhere in the hood of 10k
Click to expand...
We would only use atmospheric backflow preventers screwed onto the hydrants if they’re above ground. Then break the set screw off so they can’t be easily removed.

If it’s a dedicated irrigation meter the water company provides the protection with the meter for us. Maybe that’s not common for other areas.
 
The tables factor in expected demand with around 40 fixture units. And being in the less than 46 psi with 300 ft of pipe that's what they say. You could figure expected demand and use the formula and it may get you a more accurate depiction. But, I'm going by the table that's what it says. It's on the high side of 1-1/4".

Or one could sit back and do nothing and critique it. Whichever works.
 
The OP says his main line will be 100’.

The pressure is 50 psi at the meter.

It’s not realistic to think that every fixture in the house or even near that would be in use at once.

Irrigation can be controlled and limited to off peak hours.

We also do not size a water heater based only off how many fixtures are installed but rather by expected demand, usually based off bedrooms.
 
I’d like to ask the OP how his home is supplied with hot water. How many water heaters, size and type ?
 
50 psi at the meter 20' of elevation. Gives you 40 psi usable. 300 ft total. The most remote fixtures still need some gpm. The tables and sizing guidelines are based on fixture units. This how I learned in school. I'll go by the IAPMO guidelines. You can go by what you want.
 
JG plumbing said:
50 psi at the meter 20' of elevation. Gives you 40 psi usable. 300 ft total. The most remote fixtures still need some gpm. The tables and sizing guidelines are based on fixture units. This how I learned in school. I'll go by the IAPMO guidelines. You can go by what you want.
Click to expand...
Where are you getting 300’ of pipe ? His house is Approximately 100’ from the meter.

The hydrants ? Those are 100’ branches off the main.

Why do you think everything’s going to be used at once ? You asked the type sinks the guy has.......

I don’t care if he had 25 sinks, they’re not going to used all at once.
 
Is the OP going to turn on both hydrants and then everyone in his family and the guests all jump in the 7 bathtubs? While the sinks are running?

I think that’s a fair question.
 
To add up fixture units. They aren't figured all at once. Which is what I've tried telling you several times. 40 fixture units is reduced in the table by expected demand for 40 units. It's pretty simple
 
JG plumbing said:
To add up fixture units. They aren't figured all at once. Which is what I've tried telling you several times. 40 fixture units is reduced in the table by expected demand for 40 units. It's pretty simple
Click to expand...

It is simple. You’re using a book rather than everyday experience to determine demand.

I can respect that.

I prefer to use my common sense and experience.
 
Twowaxhack said:
It is simple. You’re using a book rather than everyday experience to determine demand.

I can respect that.

I prefer to use my common sense and experience.
Click to expand...
The code book uses tables to avoid what you're talking about. So some ye-who can't build some piece of crap and say "I think it'll work". The code says he needs an inch and a half meter with an inch and 1/4 supply line. That is if these cobbled-together numbers are what he has in reality.

The only reason I would use the long form equation is if he was going to build a header similar to what the other guy was talking about.
 
JG plumbing said:
The code book uses tables to avoid what you're talking about. So some ye-who can't build some piece of crap and say "I think it'll work". The code says he needs an inch and a half meter with an inch and 1/4 supply line. That is if these cobbled-together numbers are what he has in reality.

The only reason I would use the long form equation is if he was going to build a header similar to what the other guy was talking about.
Click to expand...

So you would use a 1.5”’water meter snd a 2” water main ?

Is that what you calculated ?

The code book is often full of crap and that’s why it changes on a regular basis.
 
I don't know where you keep coming up with two inch this is another thing where you need to read.

The only thing the number of bedrooms determines, is the size of the water heater.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top