Tub plumbing help

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Zeets

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I am re-doing my bathroom, and a neighbor of mine who does plumbing put my bathtub in. I kept asking him about these pipes that were leaning too far out and he said they are fine. When the person came to tile the shower he said they need to be pushed back.

I got a quote from another plumber who wanted an extraordinary amount of money so I figured I would try myself. I want to replace the copper with PEX so it is easier to maneuvar them and since I'm a rookie at this just feel more comfortable. Can I remove all those pipes and just replace them with PEX? Even the copper ones with the caps on them? Would I just do the same thing with PEX and have caps the same exact way it shows in the photo? Any help would be appreciated!
 

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Geofd

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I am re-doing my bathroom, and a neighbor of mine who does plumbing put my bathtub in. I kept asking him about these pipes that were leaning too far out and he said they are fine. When the person came to tile the shower he said they need to be pushed back.

I got a quote from another plumber who wanted an extraordinary amount of money so I figured I would try myself. I want to replace the copper with PEX so it is easier to maneuvar them and since I'm a rookie at this just feel more comfortable. Can I remove all those pipes and just replace them with PEX? Even the copper ones with the caps on them? Would I just do the same thing with PEX and have caps the same exact way it shows in the photo? Any help would be appreciated!
How far out is the valve can’t your guy just offset the hot and cold under the valve and either notch th wood hanger
Or move the wood back
Yes you could use pex but you still need to solder to transition to pex
I would stick with the copper
 

Zeets

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How far out is the valve can’t your guy just offset the hot and cold under the valve and either notch th wood hanger
Or move the wood back
Yes you could use pex but you still need to solder to transition to pex
I would stick with the copper

Thanks for the reply. Cant I use a shark bite transition so I dont have to solder?
 

SHEPLMBR

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Is there a gap between the studs and the shower pan? Hard to tell from the picture.
 

Zeets

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Is there a gap between the studs and the shower pan? Hard to tell from the picture.
Are you asking if theres a gap between the studs and the tub? There is about a half inch gap, but the copper pipes are hitting the tub so it cant go back further. Another reason why I need to move the pipes back. Here is a picture from the side.
 

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breplum

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Generally, Sharkbites are designed to be used in walls.
But, user failure to install properly is often an issue AND they are not foolproof.
You do not need the riser pipes with caps in any way, shape or form, they are rediculously worthless.
Be sure to put the plaster guard/guide back on that valve.
Secure the valve properly, and do not use that tub stub, use winged drop ear fittings and screw into blocks both for tub and shower.
You are much better off hiring a pro from a small or one man shop to get this done.
You have a mess made by an IDIOT. That was no plumber.
I would also have every aspect of the tub setting reviewed. The person who did your work is a danger to society.
 

Zeets

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Generally, Sharkbites are designed to be used in walls.
But, user failure to install properly is often an issue AND they are not foolproof.
You do not need the riser pipes with caps in any way, shape or form, they are rediculously worthless.
Be sure to put the plaster guard/guide back on that valve.
Secure the valve properly, and do not use that tub stub, use winged drop ear fittings and screw into blocks both for tub and shower.
You are much better off hiring a pro from a small or one man shop to get this done.
You have a mess made by an IDIOT. That was no plumber.
I would also have every aspect of the tub setting reviewed. The person who did your work is a danger to society.
Appreciate your help. Thank you.
 

Helper Dave

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Is the pipe going up to the shower bent back? Looks like it in your second pic. Then one of those risers (which aren't even needed) doesn't look like it's sitting straight in that tee. That connection could be questionable. The tub stub-out looks like it's too low, as well.

This will take a complete redo (and some tearing out, and resetting of that backing). It's a mess, like breplum made clear. I'd recommend getting a professional.
 

Jeff Handy

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Every bit of that work is comically bad and a total cluster fudge.

Start over.

Do not do it yourself, unless you want to pay again when someone has to tear out your own failure.
This is too complicated.

Not a job to start learning how to plumb.
 

SHEPLMBR

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Are you asking if theres a gap between the studs and the tub? There is about a half inch gap, but the copper pipes are hitting the tub so it cant go back further. Another reason why I need to move the pipes back. Here is a picture from the side.
The reason I ask is if the tub or shower was in that position before it was piped, maybe he thought it was getting padded out. I dunno. It should not be that far forward if not.
 

House Doc

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Basically I agree with Jeff.
But first, the studs need to be flush with the tub flange. From the pics it looks like 3/4" furring or even 1 x 3's to close the gap.

Secondly, you "could" notch the 2 x 4's next to each pipe, with a small saw, (use a chisel to knock the cut outs out) to push the pipes back into the correct alignment. Not ideal, but may be possible.

You also need to keep in mind the valve "set-back" from finished wall, so trim will fit.

Just some ideas to work with. Without being there it's difficult to KNOW what needs to be done.

I once bandaged up a co-worker who had a bad cut...does that make me a Doctor??? Don't have your "buddy" do your plumbing!! Unless he's a real plumber!
 

Matt30

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I also agree with a repipe, but if anything you gotta support that shower valve better. Don’t let it be supported by the pipes alone. Put backing behind it and put screws through the tabs. You will thank me when you have to change the cartridge and don’t destroy the valve or twist a pipe off in the process.
 

Jeff Handy

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That soldering job is kinda nasty also.
Looks like he left lots of stray flux, or maybe used old tarnished pipes.

I don’t see any shiny areas that show that he cleaned the pipes well before soldering.

And I wonder if he cooked the valve?
 
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