Torbeck Advice - I'm confused!

Discussion in 'Toilets and Sinks' started by Thomas5, Mar 30, 2012.

  1. Mar 30, 2012 #1

    Thomas5

    Thomas5

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    I have a small cistern with a Torbeck device. The previous owners built a unit around the left handside of the toilet, blocking much of the access to it (there is a gap but not much) so it isn't easy to change with dismantling the whole thing.

    The water rises to the correct level after flushing and almost completely stops. However it goes on filling but at a very very slow pace (one inch in 24 hours). Strangely enough it is better and does not often do it if the weather is hot. Other times the level can climb 1 inch in 12 hours.

    I have an isolation valve which I can use if I go away. However if there is an easy way to fix the problem without taking the whole thing apart I would love to know! I'm hoping it is something relatively easy for me as a novice.

    Thanks in advance!

    Tom, Exeter UK
     
  2. Apr 3, 2012 #2

    Thomas5

    Thomas5

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    No response? Maybe it was trickier than I thought!
     
  3. Apr 3, 2012 #3

    phishfood

    phishfood

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    To be honest, I have never heard of a Torbeck device.
     
  4. Apr 3, 2012 #4

    johnjh2o

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    Can't speak for everyone but I have no idea what it is. Maybe we know it by another name. A explanation of what it dose may help.

    John
     
  5. Apr 4, 2012 #5

    Thomas5

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    Sorry - I'm not too technical. It is just a regular Torbeck bottom entry float valve
     
  6. Apr 5, 2012 #6

    SlowDrip

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    Ok so apparently Torbeck is a company. Never heard of them, it is probably a Uk thing (Where is CHRISM when you need him?).

    Maybe some pictures would help us? It can't hurt.
     
  7. Apr 10, 2012 #7

    Thomas5

    Thomas5

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    This is it!

    Tom

    Toilet.jpg
     
  8. Apr 17, 2012 #8

    CHRISM

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    "Hello Tom",


    I will try to Help You on the basis that You cannot just change the Torbeck Valve.

    BUT it might be that after trying what I suggest You will have to gain Access to be able to replace the entire Valve - because the Parts that I am going to suggest that You try to use from a NEW Torbeck Valve may NOT be Compatible with the Existing Valve due to the Redesign by Torbeck / Opella [?].



    Usually these Plastic Float Valves would just be Replaced - they are just NOT worth trying to Adjust / Mess about with - especially where High Water Pressure exists to the Inlet.

    Sometimes a small piece of Grit gets onto the Valve Diaphragm and causes it to not completely shut off - the grit can Indent the Diaphragm meaning that even if it was removed the Diaphragm would still not Close Off the Water Flow completely.

    I would suggest that You TRY obtaining a New Torbeck Valve from a Plumbers Merchant and Use the New Parts to replace the `Working Parts` of the existing Valve - obviously using the Isolating Valve.

    If possible you might want to take the `Working Parts` from the existing Valve to the Plumbers Merchant in order to compare them with the New Valve - IF You can actually see it through the Packaging / take it out of the Box.

    BUT - there has been a redesign of the Torbeck Valve since yours was fitted which might make using the New Parts Impossible - the `New` Design enables the Valve to be disconnected from the Upstand within the W.C. Cistern. -

    You should Note the assembly of the [existing] Torbeck Valve regarding refitting the existing Parts.

    The Torbeck Valve may well be packaged in either a Box or a Poly Bag - so You would have to purchase it if what You can see looks like it will fit your existing Valve Body / Upstand - even then finding out that the `Working Parts` are NOT compatible with the existing Valve [?].

    When You disassemble the existing Torbeck Valve you must ensure that everything is completely clean prior to reassembly with the New Parts - and ENSURE that You fit the New Parts as they come out of thew New Valve.

    As the existing valve is Plastic be careful not to break the Upstand.

    There is a Flow restrictor supplied with these Float Valves - it looks like a Plastic `Archimedes Screw` BUT this has to be fitted into the Inlet of the Valve Upstand so hopefully the existing one is O.K.

    I CANNOT STATE THAT THE PARTS ARE INTERCHANGEABLE - THERE MAY WELL BE A DIFFERENCE IN THE NEW DESIGN `WORKING PARTS` / FILTER ETC.


    Sorry that I cannot be more positive Tom - My Company does not use these Float Valves unless they are supplied with specified W.C. Cisterns - which is NOT often.


    Here is a Link to some details about the New Design Torbeck Valve - Bottom Inlet:

    http://www.opella.co.uk/Resources/LF00122_Torbeck_Adjustable_Height.pdf




    CHRISM
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2012
  9. Apr 19, 2012 #9

    Thomas5

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    ChrisM - thank you! Extremely helpful. Strange thing is that at the moment it isn't doing it so much - and sometimes doesn't do it at all. I wonder if it is possible that some grit became lodged, causing the problem but is now working itself loose?
     
  10. Nov 29, 2012 #10

    CHRISM

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    "Hello Thomas5",

    I hope that You have managed to solve the problem with your W.C. Cistern [Tank] - Torbeck `Floatvalve` - ?


    Sorry that I did not see your message from APRIL until TODAY - Thursday 29th NOVEMBER - I have not been `Active` / using the Forum much since about then - BUT - also for some reason I did not receive a Notification Email from the Forum about your reply [in April] or I would definitely have responded to You out of courtesy.


    With most types of Float operated Valves including a Torbeck Valve [We used to call these `Ballvalves / Ballcocks` here in the UK] - a small piece of Grit / Limescale or another substance can cause the Valve to keep dripping / running.

    Although it is unusual for anything to enter the Mains Water Supply unless the Water Authority is working on the Pipework in your immediate area [even then `Contamination / Debris` should NOT be allowed to enter your Mains Water Pipework] - small pieces of `Debris` can enter Cold Water Storage Tanks and then be sucked down the Cold Water Supply to Bathrooms / WC`s - also a small piece of Limescale dislodged from within the Pipework in your Home can cause the same problem.

    Also as I mentioned in My previous post a small piece of Grit / Limescale can indent the surface of the Diaphragm and this could easily cause it to NOT close off completely from then on - even when the Grit / Limescale washes away.


    Again please accept My Apology for not replying to You in April - I just had not received a Notification Email from the Forum so I did not see your message.



    I am only On here Today because of a `We have not seen You for a while` Email from the Forum - I just clicked onto the link in that Email - looked at the Topics list and saw your Topic about the `Torbeck Valve` - I remembered that I had replied to someone about these Valves so I looked at the Thread and have now posted this reply.


    I would be interested in what You did to solve the problem - ?


    Regards,


    Chris
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2012

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