Toilet flange Wax Ring & Cone (basement bathroom)

[swdrasta]

Greetings! I am replacing a basement toilet and not sure if the black cone is attached to the flange and has to be removed and replaced or just cleaned so the new wax ring can be installed. Should the new wax ring have the black cone already attached? I have uploaded a couple of images and thanks for any advice that can be given.

https://www.plumbingforums.com/media/1569853997625-520721782.909/full

https://www.plumbingforums.com/media/img_20190917_162334.908/full

 

[Jeff Handy]

The black cone is part of the old wax ring kit.

It should just lift right up, to be thrown away.

Get every bit of the old dirty wax off the flange.
And get all the old dirty wax off from under the toilet.

Before installing a new wax ring, I like to prime both the flange and the bottom of the toilet with a very thin coat of new wax.

I just buy an extra plain wax ring, without a plastic cone.
I break off a chunk of it, and let it warm up a little in my fingers.
Then I rub it all over the flange, and push some into the slots and other gaps.

Then I rub a thin layer all over the sealing surface on the underside of the toilet.

This gives the new wax ring a good clean surface to seal against.

I also like to put the wax ring on the flange, then lower the toilet onto it, instead of putting the wax ring on the toilet first.

I also always lock the mounting bolts onto the flange with some washers and thin hex nuts, you can use brass or stainless.

Do this before priming with new wax.

Having the bolts locked on, strong and vertical, makes it much easier to drop the toilet onto it, without the bolts flopping around.

 

[swdrasta]

The black cone is part of the old wax ring kit.

It should just lift right up, to be thrown away.

Get every bit of the old dirty wax off the flange.
And get all the old dirty wax off from under the toilet.

Before installing a new wax ring, I like to prime both the flange and the bottom of the toilet with a very thin coat of new wax.

I just buy an extra plain wax ring, without a plastic cone.
I break off a chunk of it, and let it warm up a little in my fingers.
Then I rub it all over the flange, and push some into the slots and other gaps.

Then I rub a thin layer all over the sealing surface on the underside of the toilet.

This gives the new wax ring a good clean surface to seal against.

I also like to put the wax ring on the flange, then lower the toilet onto it, instead of putting the wax ring on the toilet first.

I also always lock the mounting bolts onto the flange with some washers and thin hex nuts, you can use brass or stainless.

Do this before priming with new wax.

Having the bolts locked on, strong and vertical, makes it much easier to drop the toilet onto it, without the bolts flopping around.

Thanks my friend

 

[frodo]

you do not need the black cone, it is better to set the toilet with out it
if you can set the terlet on the wax ring and not off to the side, you do not need it
it is really just a thing to make setting the wax stupid proof
I have found, it also can hinder flushing of large bowel movements

 

[Mikey]

In a new installation, I always first set the toilet on the flange with no ring. If the toilet rocks, either the flange is too high (rare, but it happens), or the floor is uneven. If the latter, be prepared to shim for a solid base; without it, the risk of cracking the toilet is higher.

 

[Jeff Handy]

Mikey, good advice about shimming!

If it needs shimming for uneven floor, or poorly molded toilet bowl base, I like to use coins.
Dimes, nickels, quarters.
Pennies can leave a green stain if they get damp.

You can tuck them in right to the edge, so you won’t see them much, or at all.
I put a dab of bathtub caulk on the bottom of the coin before sliding it in, so it stays where needed, in case the floor has some give.
Then just wipe away the little caulk smear.

Use plenty of coin shims to support any wide areas of non-contact with the floor.

You can also stack coins, but put a caulk dab between them first.

The tapered plastic toilet shims in stores have never worked for me.

You can also use the composite or plastic shims you will find in the window and door section of a big box store.

You can trim them to size with a razor knife, you will pbly only be using a little bit of the thin end anyway.

 

[Jeff Knecht]

The black cone is part of the old wax ring kit.

It should just lift right up, to be thrown away.

Get every bit of the old dirty wax off the flange.
And get all the old dirty wax off from under the toilet.

Before installing a new wax ring, I like to prime both the flange and the bottom of the toilet with a very thin coat of new wax.

I just buy an extra plain wax ring, without a plastic cone.
I break off a chunk of it, and let it warm up a little in my fingers.
Then I rub it all over the flange, and push some into the slots and other gaps.

Then I rub a thin layer all over the sealing surface on the underside of the toilet.

This gives the new wax ring a good clean surface to seal against.

I also like to put the wax ring on the flange, then lower the toilet onto it, instead of putting the wax ring on the toilet first.

I also always lock the mounting bolts onto the flange with some washers and thin hex nuts, you can use brass or stainless.

Do this before priming with new wax.

Having the bolts locked on, strong and vertical, makes it much easier to drop the toilet onto it, without the bolts flopping around.

To lock threaded studs in, maybe put a washer on the stud, slide it into the groove and a washer and nut tightened to flange giving it a plumb and secure setup?

 

[SHEPLMBR]

you do not need the black cone, it is better to set the toilet with out it
if you can set the terlet on the wax ring and not off to the side, you do not need it
it is really just a thing to make setting the wax stupid proof
I have found, it also can hinder flushing of large bowel movements

And sometimes,. after time they have a tendency to curl up and make clogs.