Toilet flange replacement ring not in contact with PVC fitting. Is this OK?

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alex_v

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Hello. I've got a question I can't seem to find a good answer to.

I had to replace my rotted subfloor and corroded metal toilet flange ring. I'm left with a still intact PVC fitting for a 3" pipe that the old metal flange was attached to. It has about a 4 7/8" O.D.. See picture.

I can't seem to find a replacement metal flange anywhere that will hug the PVC fitting the way the original metal flange did. All the replacement flanges have an I.D. a little over 5", which means this PVC fitting will have over 1/8" of slop between it and the replacement flange. I've tried the Oatey Moss Bay Replacement Flange, as well as the Oatey 3 in. or 4 in. Stainless Steel Closet Flange Ring.

My question is this: is this slop between the PVC fitting and the replacement metal flange OK? Any recommendations to a novice? I would imagine based on how new PVC fittings with metal flanges look at the store that this slop is not ideal.

Thank you for taking the time to read this post.
 

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A little slop is ok. Just use the “ twowaxhack” to fill in any gaps. Anchor the flange to the finished floor/subfloor7C0FBE5F-1ECE-43D8-A8FD-B197781C69A1.jpeg

Or buy a super thick wax seal like this one. These bad boys are THiCK
 
The ring is important to hold the WC down. Use non corrosive screws.
The PVC part is important to not have any movement, so if you can make it stable in any way you can envision, that is vital.
Wax on the PVC is where water and odor is sealed, so preventing PVC movement is the goal.
I'm thinking imaginatively here: S.S. fender washers around the circumference holding both or either the PVC or S.S. ring combined.
I like jumbo No-Seep flanged wax and Twowax (from memory) doesn't like flanged wax.

Both work fine in my experience. I set wax onto the ring, contrary to what the wax box shows.
Use stainless steel or brass closet bolts and nuts, with an extra set of nuts to hold the bolts before setting the WC
 

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