Toilet Flange in Concrete

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The Old Salt

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17 yrs ago when the house was built I had the basement stubbed in for a bathroom. Now I want to build it out. Unfortunately the toulet flange, set into the concrete floor is 1” below the concrete surface and its bolt slots are offset 45 deg. Is there any way to fix this besides cutting up the concrete and gluing in new correct piping?
 

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Yes someone that is skilled can cut out the old flange or any other old or broken fitting and glue in a new one . Most plumbers know how to do this.
 
Post another picture with a much wider full view angle, and indicate where and how your future toilet will sit.
Your existing flange might be salvageable, if you stack flange spacers onto it, silicone caulked and screwed down, very cheap and easy.
 
Post another picture with a much wider full view angle, and indicate where and how your future toilet will sit.
Your existing flange might be salvageable, if you stack flange spacers onto it, silicone caulked and screwed down, very cheap and easy.
Jeffhandy is onto some thing if the poster is not (handy) make a slots for LONG johnny bolts at 3+9 on the clock the put to our spacers over the johnny bolts
 
Yes someone that is skilled can cut out the old flange or any other old or broken fitting and glue in a new one . Most plumbers know how to do this.
Yes you can always cut and hammer out the floor and totally rebuild it. I was hoping someone would suggest a better or less difgicult solution
Post another picture with a much wider full view angle, and indicate where and how your future toilet will sit.
Your existing flange might be salvageable, if you stack flange spacers onto it, silicone caulked and screwed down, very cheap and easy.
I took the picture from the front side of the toilet looking towards the wall. I’ll try to post up a better pic.
Jeffhandy is onto some thing if the poster is not (handy) make a slots for LONG johnny bolts at 3+9 on the clock the put to our spacers over the johnny bolts
existing flange Johnny bolt slots are filled with concrete.
Why was that done. It should have just been pipe stubbed up above the floor and then cut and set the flange when doing the bathroom
When I had the home built, I gave them a drawing of where I wanted the toilet plumbing set. The plumbing contractor was not given the drawing and totally missed what I wanted. I made them re-do the install before concrete floor was poured. I was not able to inspect the re-done plumbing before the pouf was made. Thats how it got screwed up from the start. And the home builder’s plumber did it.
Now I want to build out the bathroom and have to deal with contractor screw ups from 17 years ago.
Post another picture with a much wider full view angle, and indicate where and how your future toilet will sit.
Your existing flange might be salvageable, if you stack flange spacers onto it, silicone caulked and screwed down, very cheap and easy.
66093FBD-2271-4A22-80DC-449ADC3D8DF3.jpeg66093FBD-2271-4A22-80DC-449ADC3D8DF3.jpeg
 

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That appears to be a flange spacer resting on the old sunken flange.

You want to stack enough spacers so that the height is about 1/4 inch above the height of the floor you will be putting onto that area.
Pros on here can advise about best height.

You can apply pure silicone caulk onto the old flange, then stack spacers to get the needed height.

Pre-drill four mounting holes first, and get all the dust and crud off everything.
You can screw spacers down to the concrete with Tapcon screws or similar concrete anchors.
Or screws set in epoxy.
 
That appears to be a flange spacer resting on the old sunken flange.

You want to stack enough spacers so that the height is about 1/4 inch above the height of the floor you will be putting onto that area.
Pros on here can advise about best height.

You can apply pure silicone caulk onto the old flange, then stack spacers to get the needed height.

Pre-drill four mounting holes first, and get all the dust and crud off everything.
You can screw spacers down to the concrete with Tapcon screws or similar concrete anchors.
Or screws set in epoxy.
Yes ... I did have a spacer sitting on top of the sunken flange. The top of the flange is aprox 1” below grade. I’ll google to see what thickness of spacers are available. This one is 1/2”. If I am raising the flange elevation with spacers, I believe the fewer I use the better. Fewer joints to leak. My gut says spacer and flange surfaces to be caulked/glued together need to be near perfectly cleaned.
What a pain it is when supposed craftsman do sloppy work.
 
I dont understand why they set the flange. You sure it is glued. Nobody sets the toilet on the concrete floor so they should have known some other type flooring would be going down
Before the concrete floor was poured, the flange was glued to the drain piping and set up on supports. After the floor was poured the flange was below grade. The concrete crew knew this was happening and made sure the flange did not get covered over. I will try to post some better pics from my phone later. Folks are saying the Plumber should have just stubbed the pipe up above finished floor grade to be finished later. BUT that did not happen. Key Stone Cops comedy of errors that I get to fix.
 
Before the concrete floor was poured, the flange was glued to the drain piping and set up on supports. After the floor was poured the flange was below grade. The concrete crew knew this was happening and made sure the flange did not get covered over. I will try to post some better pics from my phone later. Folks are saying the Plumber should have just stubbed the pipe up above finished floor grade to be finished later. BUT that did not happen. Key Stone Cops comedy of errors that I get to fix.
 

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