Toilet Flange bent up at each bolt slot

[zboltman]

Replacing toilet on a tile floor, slab foundation.
Toilet flange is bent up at each side, oh about 3/16" of an inch.
Should I take a torch and melt tham back down? (I probably should not do this, i will destroy it...)
Two questions...
Is it safe to still use the slightly angle slots for the bolts?
The flange is higher than the tile; still use the regular wax ring with that little plastic? ( i have an everbilt reinfoced wax ring #3. (256-462))
We can not afford to replace the flange. Tearing up tile and concrete is outside of our budget.

 

[Twowaxhack]

Temporary repair.

Put your bolts in the slot and dry fit the toilet without the wax. You can also use stainless washers to put on your closet bolts to make the heads bigger, helps it hold onto the flange better.
Note how it sits on the floor. Is it siting flat without rocking ? Are there large gaps between the bowl and the floor anyplace?

If it sits flat then place your wax on the flanges and run a thick bead of 100% silicone caulk around the bottom of the bowl where it would contact the floor. Then set the toilet and snug the bolts down., Let the silicone cure for a few days.,

When it dries it would be hard to pull up even if you removed the nuts holding it down. I’ve had to donkey kick them up or cut around them with a razor knife.

If there are larger gaps then I use a waterproof grout. Let it dry and it does a good job at keeping the toilet stationary.

I consider those temporary emergency repairs when the customer can’t afford proper service.

You could replace the flange for 20 bucks and a few more minutes time.

 

[zboltman]

The toilet is VERY uneven on the tile. The flange area is all dry now and it really looks "brittle".
After doing a bit of research, I have put together a plan.
Please tell me your opinions of this plan and how crazy I am...
1: Sand down existing flange with a belt sander to make it flat again.
2: Caulk the entire area between the flange and the tile. (Cleaning it all with Alcohol first)
3: install a Danco HydroSeat Flange repair on top of it. Using flexible silicone between the old flange and new repair flange.
4: Screw the new repair flange into the tile and concrete. Screw the new lange into the old; avoiding original flange bolts.
5: Set the toilet on the new repair flange; Draw a pencil line around it.
6: Place shims around the toilet so it does not move in any direction and is level. Draw pencil lines around shims to keep their place.
7: Remove toilet; trim all shims and glue them in place with silicone.
8: Place a heavy bead of silicone just inside the pencil line of the toilet outline.
9: Place a wax ring with plastic funnel onto the toilet. (This is where I am not sure to use a was ring with or without a plastic funnel...)
10: Gently install the toilet bringing it straight down on top of everything that is in place.
11: Slowly sit on toilet to seat the wax ring. Without rocking side to side.
12: Put nuts on flange bolts and alternately tighten them.
13: Smooth out extruded silicone from under toilet edges.
14: Run a new small bead of silicone all around toilet and smooth it out.
15: hook up water and test!

 

[Twowaxhack]

The idea is for a wax seal to be between the flange and the bowl and the bowl not move when the toilet is used. Not move at all.

That’s the idea. Accomplish that and you have a temp repair.

 

[TomFOhio]

You need to go to the thread Warped flange heated floor. It was on Mar 5, 2021. Check it out.

 

[zboltman]

I read that one before and just read it all again.
Am an amatuer and do not have the skill set to cut the flange off and seat a new one inside the existing ABS pipe.
What do you folks think of the Danco Hydro Seat as a repair? Drilling holes; I can do....

 

[Twowaxhack]

I read that one before and just read it all again.
Am an amatuer and do not have the skill set to cut the flange off and seat a new one inside the existing ABS pipe.
What do you folks think of the Danco Hydro Seat as a repair? Drilling holes; I can do....

I respect your honesty. Frankly a lot of people would be better off if they had your attitude.,

You could certainly try it. I’ve never used the Danco. Just realize that most anything short of replacing the flange is what I call temporary or for emergency use.

I certainly wish you success, good luck to you sir.

 

[Jeff Handy]

I think you should hire this out.

No offense, but you seem to be sort of almost in the limbo zone, of being too knowledgeable to take the advice being offered.

I would remove that warped junk and start over.

Probably with a flange that has a tailpiece that drops down into the pipe, and seals against the pipe wall, then the flange screws to the subfloor.

 

[Jeff Handy]

You can get an oscillating multitool from Harbor Freight for $20.00, that will cut off the old flange.

 

[TomFOhio]

I'm not familiar with the Danco either. The only thing is I don't think you can grind that flange down.
If you put it on top of that flange it might stick up to far off the floor. I guess with out being there
who knows. I hope you get something figured out soon. Let us know how it works

 

[zboltman]

This advice is awesome. I have decided to cut the flange off and put a new "insert" flange in.
I measure and the black pipe is a pinch under 4" ID.
Looking on Amazon, I saw this;
It has good reviews.
What do you folks think; Is this something you would use or do you have a better solution for a product.
(Hoping your experience leads me to a better product)

• Toilet Flange
• 4" PVC CLOSET FLANGE SLIP-FIT
• INSIDE 4" CAST OR PLASTIC PIPE

Universal Drain 950P Toilet Flange

 

[zboltman]

OH, and on a side note; What do you folks think of those, "Better than Wax" seals?
The synthetic rubbery non wax seals?
I persoanlly like the wax.
At my old house with a rasied foundation, I've installed a new construction toilet and replaced toilets twice.
Wax always worked; but some of these rubbery ones were not on the market then

 

[zboltman]

OK, I do listen to all of your advice.
I know it seems like you all are holding my hand going thru this, but I couldn't do this without you folks!
OK, cut the flange. The bolts broke off.
Looking at the surface, it appears I'll have to chip away at everything to get a flat circle?
Or, put the flange on top of it all with a load of silicon? (Bad idea...)
So, should I chip away at everything to get a flat surface and find a way to cut the bolts flush?
From all my research, won't this let the flange sit too low?
Will I need a flange height extender?
I measured and if I chip everthing away down to the concrete, it will be 1/2" below the tile surface.

 

[Twowaxhack]

Set the new flange with the bottom of the flange even with the top of the tile.

Mix up some quickcrete anchoring cement. When it mixes up it will be runny like water., follow the directions and don’t add too much water. Mix mix mix.

Then pour it under the flange and fill the void. Let it dry for a few hours and direct a fan on it.

Anchor the flange.. to the floor with hammer sets. You drill a 1/4” hole slip the anchor in and then hammer it home.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/QUIKRETE-10-lbs-Anchoring-Cement/3012638
I like the 2” ones.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Cobra-50-P...5gVf68qS9PfKXk_STcMaAugZEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[zboltman]

Thank you so much Twowaxhack, I am going to do this!

 

[frodo]

HOLD UP
STOP
set the toilet over the hole in the floor
take your pencil. draw around the toilet
move the toilet out of the way. You are looking at the foot print
take a 2' level. and check the foot print area
if you detect a hump. beat the floor in that spot to bring it down to level.
STAY within your foot print
IF the pipe thru the floor was cast in place with out a sleeve. simply use a flange that fits inside the 4'' pipe
SCREWING to the floor is not necessary IF THE PIPE WS CAST IN PLACE
If it as not cast in place. then you need to screw the flange to the floor
silly cone is not needed nor recommended to use at all when setting a flange
use the correct glue
IF, you have leveled the floor, the toilet will sit level, not rock nor leak
AFTER it is set, then caulk around the base of the toilet

A flange has a little height play. not a lot but a little. if flange is 1/4'' above floor to the top it will work
if it is flush, use 2 wax rings.

 

[sarg]

A flange has a little height play. not a lot but a little. if flange is 1/4'' above floor to the top it will work
if it is flush, use 2 wax rings.

A very popular proven technique on another forum as well.

 

[Twowaxhack]

A very popular proven technique on another forum as well.

It’s a failed technique that I find and correct on a weekly basis almost. So are the horned wax rings......so amateur.

If the flange is proper two wax rings is a waste of time and money. If the flange is not correct,then correct the flange.

Stacking wax rings to fill up space WILL guarantee your seal leaks if the sewer clogs up.

A toilet flange has a proper location. That location is not below the floor.

Bottom of the flange should sit supported on the finished floor and be anchored, regardless of floor materials. Period.

Terry is a better toilet salesman than plumber.

 

[Twowaxhack]

HOLD UP
STOP
set the toilet over the hole in the floor
take your pencil. draw around the toilet
move the toilet out of the way. You are looking at the foot print
take a 2' level. and check the foot print area
if you detect a hump. beat the floor in that spot to bring it down to level.
STAY within your foot print
IF the pipe thru the floor was cast in place with out a sleeve. simply use a flange that fits inside the 4'' pipe
SCREWING to the floor is not necessary IF THE PIPE WS CAST IN PLACE
If it as not cast in place. then you need to screw the flange to the floor
silly cone is not needed nor recommended to use at all when setting a flange
use the correct glue
IF, you have leveled the floor, the toilet will sit level, not rock nor leak
AFTER it is set, then caulk around the base of the toilet

A flange has a little height play. not a lot but a little. if flange is 1/4'' above floor to the top it will work
if it is flush, use 2 wax rings.

The man has a tile floor and you’re telling him to beat the floor flat under the toilet.,

WTF ?

A toilet flange should be anchored to the floor every time no matter if it’s cast in place in the concrete or not.

This prevents the flange portion from distorting over time. Just like the OP’s flange is doing. That’s why he wanted to belt sand it.

This guy does it right except he needs to learn to put the top back on the glue when he finishes using it, and do it immediately. He also needs to learn how to measure 1 time, he plays around with the flange position too much. . But he gets the idea.....

 

[zboltman]

Hello, sifting thru all of the really great advice, this is what I've decided to do: (Hopefully with your approval)
Thank goodness we have a second bathroom while this one is down!
1: As you can see in the new pic, there appears to be a melted lip of the original bottom of the flange sticking out.
I will grind this down to try and get the wall as smooth as possible.
The new flange insert has a 4" base; that lip is like 2.5" down...
2: Chip away at the debris to try and get a smooth circle around the pipe.
3: Install a 1/2" flange spacer on the bare concrete, putting two holes in it for the broken screws.
(My Wife advised me against using cement around the flange. Too permanent. She reminds me how I make mistakes and may have to dissasemble it to redo it . (I always listen to her))
I will use silicone under this to fill in any gaps, not to hold it up, but more of a moisture / liquid barrier. (And to hold it level till I install the flange)
4: The flange spacer now brings me level with the tile; I'll install the new flange into the hole.
5: I will screw the new flange down with 1/4" by 2 1/4" concrete screws. (1" is taken up by flange thickness, so 1 1/4" into concrete)
6: I will then tighten the allen screws to expand the rubber seal.
7: Then I will fill the surrounding area between the flange and tile with more silicone.

What do you folks think of this?