Sweating copper near plumbers tape

Discussion in 'General Plumbing Help' started by branimal, May 16, 2017.

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  1. May 16, 2017 #1

    branimal

    branimal

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    I'm installing a tub filler in my bathroom reno. I think sweating the copper from the valve pictured below back toward the supply line will be the easiest way to make sure things line up.

    My questions are:
    1. Do I need to use plumbers tape on the male copper threads screwed into the valve. Pic below.

    2. Will sweating the copper fittings melt the plumbers tape to the point it no longer holds the seal.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. May 16, 2017 #2

    johnjh2o

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    solder the copper into the male before connecting to the valve.
     
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  3. May 16, 2017 #3

    Matt30

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    And yes, you will need teflon tape or thread sealer
     
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  4. May 16, 2017 #4

    frodo

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    like Mr Matt suggested, sweat the adapter onto the pipe, let it cool then apply pipe dope to the threads and tighten with a wrench
     
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  5. May 16, 2017 #5

    branimal

    branimal

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    Will a wet rag on the pipe protect the teflon tape's Integrity for sweats further up the pipe?
     
  6. May 16, 2017 #6

    Matt30

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    That will help, but I usually prefabricate as much as I can before I thread it on. If it's close quarters, be very careful how much heat you apply. Once solder starts flowing, that's enough. Also remove any rubber components from the tub filler before soldering
     
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  7. May 17, 2017 #7

    branimal

    branimal

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    Yeah very tight spot. I think I'll use unions so I can tighten last fitting into place.

    Good call on removing any rubber.
     
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  8. May 17, 2017 #8

    Matt30

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    If it's that close, would it be better / safer to adapt to pex
     
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  9. May 17, 2017 #9

    branimal

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    Code requires copper. Wish I could use pex
     
  10. May 17, 2017 #10

    frodo

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    I usually pre-fab shower head riser, the tub spout, and the hot cold parts.
    then put it all together, hang the valve using 2 screws in the drop eared 90 on the shower head
    then, hook up the hot/cold lines
     
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  11. May 17, 2017 #11

    Matt30

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    My code would allow it, but im Canada. Just curious what your code states about using copper?
     
  12. May 18, 2017 #12

    branimal

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    I think buildings taller than 3 stories require copper pipe.

    I believe the concern is fires melting pex. That's why nohub cast iron is required as well.

    Rats are another concern.
     
  13. May 18, 2017 #13

    branimal

    branimal

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    I sweated the male adapter to a 90 and then a short run of copper. Then installed into the valve body with plumbers tape. Put a wet rag on the spot marked with a pink line and sweated the rest of the copper run into place. Seems to be holding.

    When I went to install the tub fillers post to the valve, screwing it tight leaves the spout not looking straight ahead. I'll try wrapping the valve's threads with plumbers tape to have it snug up where I want it. Guess I should have installed the spout onto the valve first to see where it gets tight.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  14. May 18, 2017 #14

    frodo

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    are going to bury that valve without an access door?
    whatcha gonna do if you need to change an oring?
     
  15. May 18, 2017 #15

    branimal

    branimal

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    So I just read up on plumbers tape. It's a thread lubricant and sealant. So my idea of wrapping plumbers tape won't work.

    I'll look at shimming the valve body as shown below. Maybe some rubber washers.

    I want the spout to face in the direction of the pink arrow. Not the green arrow.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  16. May 18, 2017 #16

    branimal

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    Damn good question. The access points to remove the top brass assembly (where the orings are located) are level with the joists. If I could make an Allen key style tool perhaps I could slip that in the space between the escutcheon and the top brass assembly. I wouldn't bank on it.

    What do you suggest? [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  17. May 18, 2017 #17

    frodo

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    I suggest measuring the escutcheon then set the unit above the floor till the escutcheon just covers it
     
  18. May 18, 2017 #18

    voletl

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    Hey just wondering did you use Type L copper because I can see the barcode on that piece of copper in the picture has a red tag on it.
     
  19. May 18, 2017 #19

    branimal

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    Type M I believe.
     
  20. May 18, 2017 #20

    voletl

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    ..........
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2017

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