Sump Pump, Utility Sink, Washer, help!

[Solid]

The age of the home leads me to believe the backwater valve is install with lead & oakum.(Hub/spigot), if it was installed later, then it may have no-hub bands. If you are replacing the backwater valve (which i would recommend), Install a clean-out before & after the BW Valve.

Thanks for the info. I was actually just planning on removing this device all together, but maybe I should replace it. The plumber that was out here at my home said that he didn't like the idea of a backwater valve at this spot, because he said he would rather have the sewer backup in the basement, instead of upstairs in the home. I'm not sure if I agree with this, but I was thinking down the road, I would have one installed on the main waste line just before it exits the home.

If I were to replace it, is there s specific model that you would recommend? Of course, I would need to be able to bury it, so it would need to have some sort of cap that would be accessible above the slab.

Thank you for replying.

 

[IFIXH20]

Thanks for the info. I was actually just planning on removing this device all together, but maybe I should replace it. The plumber that was out here at my home said that he didn't like the idea of a backwater valve at this spot, because he said he would rather have the sewer backup in the basement, instead of upstairs in the home. I'm not sure if I agree with this, but I was thinking down the road, I would have one installed on the main waste line just before it exits the home.

If I were to replace it, is there s specific model that you would recommend? Of course, I would need to be able to bury it, so it would need to have some sort of cap that would be accessible above the slab.

Thank you for replying.

They come in PVC, ABS, Castiron. I have used Oatey PVC ones. If you have floor drains , the stoppage will backup there. Where ever you put your BW Valve ,install clean-outs before & after the BW Valve.

 

[Solid]

I like the looks of this valve, made by NDS - What do you think?

According to the documentation, you can replace the flapper valve in this unit (assuming this can be done through the riser?).

As far as floor drains go, there aren't any in the basement of this home. I'm pretty much replacing this entire piece of pipe, all the way to the main stack (which is about 4 or 5ft.).

 

[IFIXH20]

That should work fine

 

[Solid]

OK, thanks for the help. I will report once the floor has been broken up.

 

[Solid]

UPDATE! (my new backwater valve is on the way, and should be here next week)

Ok, I rented the demo hammer and broke up around the damaged backwater valve. The riser just fell off the backwater valve, but you can still see the top of it on the left. This is exactly what I was afraid of finding - there is a tight 45 degree turn immediately after the backwater valve, BUT I think I have enough room to use the banded coupler. What do you think about this:

I took a look at the internal dimensions of my coupler, and it looks like I need 1" on either side, I just don't know if I will be able to make a straight enough cut so close to the backwater valve. The other option would be to separate that connection and use a donut. What do you guys think?

 

[phishfood]

Use soapstone (welding section @ hardware store) to mark a square line around the pipe, and try to follow that. I would at least try that before going to the work of drilling and removing the lead joint.

 

[IFIXH20]

Remember you have to account for both clean-outs on installation, so make sure you have enough room before the 90. You only want to make one cut.

 

[Solid]

Remember you have to account for both clean-outs on installation, so make sure you have enough room before the 90. You only want to make one cut.

OK, from the point I'm going to cut, to the bend up to the utility sink is about 30" - do you think that is enough room?

Also, can you show me exactly what pieces I will need to use to install the cleanouts? I can't seem to find anything specifically called cleanout fittings (or something like that). If I understand correctly, it is probably going to be some sort of tee connection that comes up through the floor, with a threaded cap?

 

[IFIXH20]

OK, from the point I'm going to cut, to the bend up to the utility sink is about 30" - do you think that is enough room?

Also, can you show me exactly what pieces I will need to use to install the cleanouts? I can't seem to find anything specifically called cleanout fittings (or something like that). If I understand correctly, it is probably going to be some sort of tee connection that comes up through the floor, with a threaded cap?

We are talking about 2'' piping correct ? What is the depth from piping to finish floor ?

 

[Solid]

We are talking about 2" PVC piping beneath the slab. The height from the top of the PVC to the top of the slab is about 6" - 7".

So, there is no floor drain in my basement - just the utility sink. There used to be a floor drain in the corner of the basement, that would drain out through the main to the street. This floor drain was eliminated, and a sump pit was put in its place. I'm wondering if I even need to install this backwater valve? I think the reason there was one originally was because of the floor drain, which is now gone. If I'm not going to replace the backwater valve, I can just cut the cast iron, make the connection and button things up. When the backwater valve that I ordered comes in, I can just return it.

What do you think about running straight 2" PVC to the main with no backwater valve?

 

[Solid]

I have cut cast iron with a sawzall and a diamond grit blade. It is slow work, but doable. If it is a single cut in 2", one blade should do it.

The last time I use a grit sawzall blade to cut cast was on 4". I have since bought a small angle grinder and a diamond blade. "Nuff said.

Phish,

I picked up a 4 1/2" angle grinder (Ridgid model R10051), and in the manual it says that you can't use a type 1 diamond cut-off wheel with this grinder - only type 27 wheels (I can't find a type 27 diamond blade). Do you (or anyone) know of a grinder that is capable of using a type 1 diamond cut-off blade? Apparently, the problem is the guard on the Ridgid tool.

 

[phishfood]

I must admit to complete ignorance. I bought a Milwaukee angle grinder, and a 4 1/2" diamond blade, I don't recall seeing anything about Type 1 or Type 27 blades.

Edit: I have seen 4" blades and 4 1/2" blades. Is it possible that your grinder can only accept 4" blades?

 

[IFIXH20]

We are talking about 2" PVC piping beneath the slab. The height from the top of the PVC to the top of the slab is about 6" - 7".

So, there is no floor drain in my basement - just the utility sink. There used to be a floor drain in the corner of the basement, that would drain out through the main to the street. This floor drain was eliminated, and a sump pit was put in its place. I'm wondering if I even need to install this backwater valve? I think the reason there was one originally was because of the floor drain, which is now gone. If I'm not going to replace the backwater valve, I can just cut the cast iron, make the connection and button things up. When the backwater valve that I ordered comes in, I can just return it.

What do you think about running straight 2" PVC to the main with no backwater valve?

Solid, you could run piping only. Being the BWV is cast iron I though it was part of the orginal plumbing. It baffles me why someone would remove the floor drain and put a sump pump in , usually the floor drain is left in place and a sump pump & pit is install with the discharge running outside the home.

 

[Solid]

I can only assume that this corner (which is now the sump pit) was a floor drain. The entire basement floor slopes to this corner, and when I broke up the floor, you can tell that the original Cast Iron went all the way to that corner. Someone, at some time removed the floor drain, and put a sump pit in that corner, but they left the pipe sticking into the side of the sump pit. I have no idea why they did this. My plan is to put a floor drain in the top of my sump pit lid, just in case there is ever water down there, it will just flow into the pit and be pumped outside. Sort of like this:

I guess I'm wondering if I really need to have a backwater valve in this spot anymore? I can only guess that it was there because of the floor drain, but I really have no idea what I'm talking about. If this was your basement, what would you do at this point - put in a new PVC backwater valve, or just plumb 2" PVC and be finished?

 

[IFIXH20]

If you are not having any main line stoppage issues ,Just go ahead and run your pipe without the BWV.

 

[Solid]

If you are not having any main line stoppage issues ,Just go ahead and run your pipe without the BWV.

Great - sounds like a plan. I just got the blades to cut the Cast Iron tonight and will probably cut the pipe this week and plumb things up. I'm going to set up the utility sink and test things before I cover everything up with gravel and concrete, just to make sure that the coupler isn't leaking. I will report back if I run into any problems.

Thanks so much for your help and advice with this project - it helps tremendously.

 

[Solid]

Ok guys, I was finally able to cut this pipe! the Sawzall worked, but it sure is slow. I must say, it does make a nice straight cut if you take your time:

Look at this mess:

So, I put everything back together, and it went just fine. I just used the majority of the top section that was there before, but I rebuilt the lower section that will be buried. One thing that is bother me is the coupling.

I noticed after I tightened it up, that the metal sleeve is buckling due to the differences is outside diameter of the two pipes. The Cast Iron is definitely larger diameter than that PVC - could there be another fitting that I should use? I just picked this one up at the big box store, and it is the same exact coupler that that plumber used before me.

 

[phishfood]

On 2", there is not a specific coupling made to transition between PVC and cast, on the larger sizes there is, with one side of the neoprene sleeve having thicker walls then the other. I have noticed the same thing as you with the side on the cast crinkling a little.

 

[Solid]

OK, that is good news Phish! This is a close up image, and I'm trying to get the best shot of the distortion - is this typical of what you normally see?

I've put a ton of water through this and I haven't noticed any leaks. And tonight I'm going to run a few loads of laundry too. I think at this point (assuming nothing explodes tonight) I'm going to go. Thank you all so much with your help on this project!