Threaded iron plug in PVC pipe clean-out hole (previous owner did it....complicated story!).......I've tried CLR, standard WD40, "Specialist" WD40, hair dryer (for heating PVC), gentle (since all-PVC piping) tapping with hammer.....no go. Had success with such problems using high heat with all-metal fittings, but can't, of course, with PVC. Any suggestions?
Stuck Cleanout Plug
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Jeff Handy
Pro Handyman, NOT A Pro Plumber
Post some good pictures of it.
Sounds like the plug either has no teflon tape, or has hardened thread sealant on it.
A big enough wrench will move it, but might break something else.
Pics are needed for proper advice I think.
Sounds like the plug either has no teflon tape, or has hardened thread sealant on it.
A big enough wrench will move it, but might break something else.
Pics are needed for proper advice I think.
Thanks for reply, Jeff. Here’s the plug. Attached copper fitting was added by prev. homeowner for draining water treatment backwash. Guess he couldn’t do it with a PVC plug. Anyway, that doesn’t affect stuck plug problem. You’re right....because of delicate nature of PVC, I can’t use too much torque on the plug. So far, I’ve used two wrenches pushed in opposing directions to avoid breaking the PVC.....
Jeff Handy
Pro Handyman, NOT A Pro Plumber
What exactly is the entire problem?
What is your end goal?
Do you need that black ABS threaded opening for something else?
Or will you just be inserting a solid plug?
Using two wrenches, you could unscrew the copper adapter from the inside of the galvanized fitting, then screw in a male plug there to seal the hole, if that is all you need to do.
And a snake would likely still fit through the hole to clean the drain as needed.
The galvanized threads do look dry, apply generous PB Blaster and then give several dozen light taps all around the edge of the galvanized fitting, don’t tap on the plastic parts at all.
The shock helps the oil to penetrate the crusty threads.
What is your end goal?
Do you need that black ABS threaded opening for something else?
Or will you just be inserting a solid plug?
Using two wrenches, you could unscrew the copper adapter from the inside of the galvanized fitting, then screw in a male plug there to seal the hole, if that is all you need to do.
And a snake would likely still fit through the hole to clean the drain as needed.
The galvanized threads do look dry, apply generous PB Blaster and then give several dozen light taps all around the edge of the galvanized fitting, don’t tap on the plastic parts at all.
The shock helps the oil to penetrate the crusty threads.
Have you tried a hammer and chiselon the edge of the threads ,just dont swing the hammer like like a basedall bat ,if that doesnt work cut the 1 1/2 flushwith the galvi cleanout cut the galvi in pie shapes cut righg to the pvc threds see if yiu can get one peice to come out after that you can tap the rest out
Jeff,
Problem is a suspected clog in this gray water drain.
I have to keep the copper fitting to drain the backwash (hose is disconnected so I can more easily get at the plug). Think the flats on the copper fitting are deceptive. Tried unscrewing as you suggested, but it's solid.....think fitting was probably soldered or welded to plug before plug/fitting assembly was screwed into clean-out hole. Snake won't fit into copper fitting hole/pipe.
When I read notes on PB Blaster can I think it said will attack some plastics...so I chose the WD40 Specialist instead. Wonder if there is a solvent that would soften thread sealant ( ?).
Bbp,
Thanks for suggestion, but think heat on copper fitting/iron plug would expand IT instead of the PVC, thus making it even harder to turn the plug.
Problem is a suspected clog in this gray water drain.
I have to keep the copper fitting to drain the backwash (hose is disconnected so I can more easily get at the plug). Think the flats on the copper fitting are deceptive. Tried unscrewing as you suggested, but it's solid.....think fitting was probably soldered or welded to plug before plug/fitting assembly was screwed into clean-out hole. Snake won't fit into copper fitting hole/pipe.
When I read notes on PB Blaster can I think it said will attack some plastics...so I chose the WD40 Specialist instead. Wonder if there is a solvent that would soften thread sealant ( ?).
Bbp,
Thanks for suggestion, but think heat on copper fitting/iron plug would expand IT instead of the PVC, thus making it even harder to turn the plug.
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heat the malleable iron reducer
Jeff Handy
Pro Handyman, NOT A Pro Plumber
Jeff Handy
Pro Handyman, NOT A Pro Plumber
PB Blaster applied several times over a day or so, plus plenty of light taps on the flat face of the hex head of the galvanized fitting, should let it unscrew.
With a big pipe wrench carefully grabbed onto the abs socket, holding all that from twisting or cracking.
A strong helper would be good for that.
If still stuck, you could saw off the copper flush with the galv hex face, then make three or four careful pie cuts with a recip saw from the center hole outwards, getting close to but not cutting through the metal threads.
After those cuts, the galvanized reducer should be turnable.
With a big pipe wrench carefully grabbed onto the abs socket, holding all that from twisting or cracking.
A strong helper would be good for that.
If still stuck, you could saw off the copper flush with the galv hex face, then make three or four careful pie cuts with a recip saw from the center hole outwards, getting close to but not cutting through the metal threads.
After those cuts, the galvanized reducer should be turnable.
Dont think and use heat. I have taken at least 20 of those off and all with heat.
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seems like hundreds
you have to tighten the crap out of them to keep them from leaking
forget about un screwing them'
i use black swan on the threads when i install. it aint coming off with out heat
Yes sir, fire up the torch. I have even had to cut a few out.
Agree, heat is going to be required.
One help which has not thus far been suggested is to begin removal by tightening. Often, a stuck fastener/fitting will move more easily in the tightening direction. Just a bit of movement in the 'wrong' direction will then create slack to make it easier to loosen.
jack vines
One help which has not thus far been suggested is to begin removal by tightening. Often, a stuck fastener/fitting will move more easily in the tightening direction. Just a bit of movement in the 'wrong' direction will then create slack to make it easier to loosen.
jack vines
GOT IT! After penetrants and vibration (hammer tapping) didn't work I used a heat gun at the 500 deg. setting. Moved it around the PVC collar for about 5 min., then put a pipe wrench around the collar and a pair of channel-locks on the plug, turning them in opposite directions so I wouldn't crack the PVC. There was crud in the threads, probably a sealant of some sort. Snaked the pipe then cleaned the threads and applied plumber's grease. Should be a cinch to get it out next time.
Thanks to all for suggestions and help!
Thanks to all for suggestions and help!
I would have taken a sawzall with a metal blade 14 tpi and cut galvanized above threads . Hollow in that area . Then carefully cut out to just near threads .
