Standpipe/trap in wall with laundry outlet box

[edee_em]

I currently have a standpipe for my washer installed outside of the drywall, right behind my washer near the washer drain outlet. There is a trap installed at the bottom of the standpipe and it connects to a vented drain a few feet away. Has been working great for the past 19 years+.

The issue I have is that the supplies I installed are very low. That didn't matter 19 years ago, but it seems, as I age, the floor is getting lower and further away. So, the plan is to install an outlet box to raise the shutoffs to a more humane height.

Now this brings me to the question I have: these outlet boxes all have a place for the drain to be installed but that means the standpipe and trap would now be in the wall behind drywall. What are the issues with this and specifically with cleanouts. I want to make sure it's done to code (I live in Ontario, Canada by the way). My thinking is if a blockage occurred, (doing counter hex sounds and dance right now) it should be an easy matter of running a snake down the drain pipe. Or am I way off on how to deal with cleanouts for standpipes buried in walls because of laundry outlet boxes? Thanks

PS: In all the videos I've viewed it seems there are more installations of these things without any cleanouts compared to those showing a cleanout.

 

[frodo]

install a cleanout on the vent,,install it above the level of the washing machine
the reason is, if the drain backs up while your washe has a full load, you do not break your back moving the washer out of the way of the cleanout.

the valve/washer box,, there is no code that states that box was to be in the wall
mount the box on the drain stand pipe, and screw it to the wall
hook up the water to the valves in the box
image 1 is what i think you have
image 2 is a cleanout installed in the vent
and a box on the drain,,,

those boxes are kinda pricey,,you do not have to have a box,,

 

[Diehard]

In other words, no reason to move the existing standpipe.
Do what you want with the water supplies. You can raise them with or without a box.

 

[edee_em]

In other words, no reason to move the existing standpipe.
Do what you want with the water supplies. You can raise them with or without a box.

Yes, understood, but what if I want to bury the standpipe and trap? How is it dealt with properly?

 

[frodo]

if you post a picture it would be easier to tell you
a p trap swings where it connects to the 90

cut the old trap off, install a new trap, swing i into the wall

i am assuming the vent is out of the wall also

 

[edee_em]

This is a pic of the laundry room wall rough in circa 2000. The washer and dryer are stacked on the left side of the wall. The standpipe is attached to the drain stub in 2nd bay and that goes on to the drain in the 5th bay. It is not behind the drywall. There is cleanout plug at the bottom of the trap. The vent in the pic was not connected at the time of the pic but it is. The vent and drain are actually behind drywall. The blocking was installed for a laundry tub and cabinet set up that never materialized.

 

[Diehard]

Your standpipe trap is not being vented properly.
I can't wait to hear what frodo is going to say about that trap arm extension connection to the vertical vent/drain line. A plumber didn't do that.
Also, it almost looks like that horizontal vent pipe is sloping the wrong way.

 

[edee_em]

Your standpipe trap is not being vented properly.
I can't wait to hear what frodo is going to say about that trap arm extension connection to the vertical vent/drain line. A plumber didn't do that.
Also, it almost looks like that horizontal vent pipe is sloping the wrong way.

Thanks for pointing out what is wrong but an explanation would help. I'm especially concerned with the trap not being vented properly. Also concerned with building permit pass when basement was completed.

I think the slop you see is because the vent wasn't connected at that point. "Plumber" must have corrected slope when attaching vent

 

[Diehard]

Thanks for pointing out what is wrong but an explanation would help. I'm especially concerned with the trap not being vented properly. Also concerned with building permit pass when basement was completed.

I think the slop you see is because the vent wasn't connected at that point. "Plumber" must have corrected slope when attaching vent

frodo is a very experienced plumber. Whereas I was a plumbing engineer that didn't necessarily get involved with all the small detail stuff. We let the plumbers and code dictate. So he would be best to help you out.

 

[frodo]

 

[edee_em]

Thank you mr. frodo!

 

[edee_em]

View attachment 21174 View attachment 21175

frodo, in your first post you mentioned putting the cleanout above the level of the washing machine. In your last post you show the cleanout quite low. Is there a reason for the change?

 

[Diehard]

I believe he answered your question in his original post #2, when he said, "the reason is, if the drain backs up while your washer has a full load, you do not break your back moving the washer out of the way of the cleanout."
But now the CO is not behind the washer.

 

[edee_em]

I believe he answered your question in his original post #2, when he said, "the reason is, if the drain backs up while your washer has a full load, you do not break your back moving the washer out of the way of the cleanout."
But now the CO is not behind the washer.

Glad there are some people out there who know how to read!! Thanks Diehard

 

[edee_em]

View attachment 21174 View attachment 21175

Sorry to resurrect this old puppy but things change. I'm thinking about installing a laundry tub (in front of stud bays 3 and 4, left to right) because my drain pipe is only 1 1/2" (see most recent posts). Got a quote to replace pipes to 2" but I've grown attached to my "arm and a leg".

In this post you mentioned that the vent had to be a min of 6" above the laundry box that was set at 36". How does this change, if at all, for a laundry tub? Thanks

 

[frodo]

minimum 6'' above the laundry tub
vent height does not change
42'' is typical height

 

[Jeff Handy]

What is that red tape for?
Is it covering pipe insulation?

 

[edee_em]

What is that red tape for?
Is it covering pipe insulation?

The red tape is holding the roofing felt together at the seams. I was told that was good practice when dealing with poured concrete basement walls. The roll of red tape is just resting for its next job. No red tape over pipe insulation.

 

[Jeff Handy]

I have never seen roofing felt lining a concrete wall like that.

I would think it would build up moisture behind it and create mold.

Maybe others on here can comment on that.

 

[frodo]

Your tar ( or felt ) paper is not considered a vapor barrier.

Materials having a permeable rating of 1 or lower is considered a water vapor barrier .... tar ( or felt ) paper has a permeable rating of 5 or higher which means the interior vapor within the walls will breathe outward.

It's intended purpose is provide a barrier to protect the sheathing from liquid water also to assist with being an air barrier.