Splice dishwasher drain hose

[six50joe]

Just moved into our new home, upgrading old appliances. I have installed dishwashers before, in common situations.

This time it's a little different. The previous installation looks like it was about 15 yrs ago was a Bosch dishwasher, which doesn't seem to have a way to detach its drain hose. I discovered last night that the drain hose and water source are routed through a hole cut in the tile floor. Under the sink, a black (non-corrugated) drain tube comes up through a hole and attaches to the drain- so the connection between the two hoses is hidden beneath the floor somewhere. I haven't found access to it anywhere and assume it's permanently there. I tried pulling to a degree on the dishwasher hose (in attached picture) in the hopes it would pull the coupling up, but doesn't look like it will. I'm not sure what to do here. It looks like it would be difficult to snake the new hose through the hole to the sink, and I worry if I try I could make things worse by tangling it on the copper supply line under the floor and crimping it. In the worst case I suppose I could route the new hose through the cabinets to the sink, but that's undesirable.

Is there a reliable way to cut and splice old dishwasher hose to the new one? Even that solution isn't ideal since I still have to use a 15 yr old hose made for a different dishwasher, but would at least use the existing installation.

Thanks for all advice!

 

[SHEPLMBR]

I would get rid of that and redo it properly going through the cabinet.

 

[KULTULZ]

And check the electrical requirements of the new DW (Install Manual) as many new models require 20A service. You have 15A service.

Air Gap/High Loop?

 

[six50joe]

This is from the installation manual:

• This appliance must be supplied with 120V, 60 Hz., and
connected to an individual properly grounded branch circuit,
protected by a 15 or 20 ampere circuit breaker or time delay
fuse.

It doesn't mention anything else about electrical service requirements that I can see. I'm hoping the 15A is ok, it's a Kenmore Elite, I would think that since they are more energy efficient than the previous generation they would not require higher amperage- is that a decent assumption?

I'm going to go with SHEPLMBR's advice and route the drainage hose through the cabinets, since that's the only hookup in my my limited experience that would give me piece of mind, at the expense of aesthetics.

The new problem now is trying to find a longer drain hose (6') that is compatible with this model; the one that comes with it is 3'. If I have to special order one we're going to have a lot of piled up dishes in the kitchen and a new dishwasher to walk around on the way in for a while.

 

[SHEPLMBR]

This is from the installation manual:

• This appliance must be supplied with 120V, 60 Hz., and
connected to an individual properly grounded branch circuit,
protected by a 15 or 20 ampere circuit breaker or time delay
fuse.

It doesn't mention anything else about electrical service requirements that I can see. I'm hoping the 15A is ok, it's a Kenmore Elite, I would think that since they are more energy efficient than the previous generation they would not require higher amperage- is that a decent assumption?

I'm going to go with SHEPLMBR's advice and route the drainage hose through the cabinets, since that's the only hookup in my my limited experience that would give me piece of mind, at the expense of aesthetics.

The new problem now is trying to find a longer drain hose (6') that is compatible with this model; the one that comes with it is 3'. If I have to special order one we're going to have a lot of piled up dishes in the kitchen and a new dishwasher to walk around on the way in for a while.

Sounds like a good plan, But not to be too cynical, hand wash them till them?

 

[KULTULZ]

This is from the installation manual:

• This appliance must be supplied with 120V, 60 Hz., and
connected to an individual properly grounded branch circuit,
protected by a 15 or 20 ampere circuit breaker or time delay
fuse.

It doesn't mention anything else about electrical service requirements that I can see. I'm hoping the 15A is ok, it's a Kenmore Elite, I would think that since they are more energy efficient than the previous generation they would not require higher amperage- is that a decent assumption?

You're OK. Code (on new builds - extensive remodels) require a separate GFCI/AFCI circuit with a manual cut-off. You are most likely grandfathered in to not have to do the upgrade (not a major remodel).

I addition to her advice (which is correct) you need either a HIGH LOOP or AIR GAP INSTALL on the drain.

 

[six50joe]

Thanks much for your detailed advice Kultulz.

The hose that came with the dishwasher was way too short to make the connection to the drain, so I ordered the longer version (I think 8 feet, which arrived yesterday. I ran it through the cabinets, and my under-the-sink picture looks almost identical to yours, except that my loop is significantly higher. In fact, a strap had been holding up the loop on the old hose near the top of the sink (would be behind it in your view). I just hung it on that. However, there isn't quite enough length in it to make a high loop on the dishwasher itself. I don't know how high it will go since I haven't done that part of the installation yet (need a ferule for the water line, which didn't come with it). My guess is i'll only get an inch or two above midway from the cabinet before it needs to lead down to the front.

Your pic says the dishwasher loop is not a substitute for the sink loop, but is it also true the other way around?

Thanks again,
Joe

 

[six50joe]

Just noticed now the caption on your pic showing that the high loop is too low (I should be ok in that regard), but still curious about whether I need a high loop on the dishwasher if the length won't quite accommodate it that high.

 

[frodo]

the drain hose needs to attach to the bottom of the counter top. most logical is attach it to one of the sink clips, if you have any.

if your hose is not long enough you need a longer hose.

these hoses can be found in any length you wish to buy at an auto parts store. 5/8''ID black radiator hose

to attach a section of hose to your existing drain hose,
you will need a 3'' long piece of 1/2'' nominal copper pipe, and 2, 1'' hose clamps

slide the copper into the hose and install the clamp over the pipe

 

[six50joe]

My loop under the sink is attached to the bottom of the counter top, so I should be good on that part. As to my last post about the high loop on the side of the dishwasher, I noticed last night under the insulation blanket that there is a built in high loop on its side, the bottom of which the drain hose connects to. -so I should be all good with drain hose at this point.

I wanted to finish the job last night but the annoying thing I ran into this time is that the compression nut on the copper water line will not make it onto the threads of the water intake fitting. When I took a close look at the old fittings, it looks like the ferrule was narrower than the one I bought (10mm). As I'm not a plumber this was a surprise, so I'm hoping I can get a smaller 3/8" OD ferrule at Home Depot today that will work.

 

[frodo]

post no 6 addressed the loop on the dishwasher

and it must loop up to the bottom of counter top. not 6'' below the top up to the bottom

your water fitting. i dunno,,,post a pic