Sound Of Running Water Coming From Water Heater

[SFL_Dave]

I think water soaked the insulation covering the upper element thermostat causing this mess.



I intend to replace this water heater which is around 15 years old. I'll have to figure out some things for myself or hire a pro. The elements are only 3500 and I don't even know if they still make water heaters with those. If this involves re-wiring in the circuits I should probably hire a pro.

I'm actually mostly concerned about the sound of running water which started after this happened. I can stop the sound by turning the valve to the off position.

I recorded the sound and put it on youtube.

Does anyone know why this noise might be happening?

 

[dmmsr]

Water heater is shot and a hazard. Shut the electric off and leave it off. Your lucky nothing major happened.

If this were my house, I would get a stacking kit for the washer and dryer and install a standard height water heater on the floor. Make sure to install a water heater pan. You need an electrical disconnect, and a vacuum breaker if it is on the first floor or higher. Check to see if you have a pressure reducing valve. If you do you will need an expansion tank as well.

In whatever you may do hire a licensed plumber. And avoid an installer and water heater from any big box store.

As far as the running water, did you check the relief valve? Water could be discharging from that. But most likely just your heater is leaking. Just replace it then check to see if it goes away.

 

[RonAKA]

I don't really hear the noise in your recording, but I use hearing aids. It would seem like you have had a leak and an electrical fire. I agree with the comment about replacing it with a full height larger capacity heater if you do run short of hot water. If not you could go with a replacement in kind, providing you can solder copper pipe. Make sure the breaker and wire is sized properly for the new heater amps.

The one thing you should check on the old heater before you throw it out is the anode rod. Assuming the heater failed due to corrosion and leaking, the anode rod is the most likely cause if it has not been inspected and replaced regularly. You will find it under a plastic cap on the top of the heater. I think I saw it between the water inlet and the electrical connections. It will be a 1 1/16" hex nut that probably needs an impact wrench to get it free. If it is severely corroded or gone, that is your cause. They may not last as long on a short heater as a full size, due to the reduced length. The anode rod in my RV does not last nearly as long as the one in my full sized house heater.

If the anode rod is replaced when it needs to be your water heater should last a very long time, even if you buy one with a short 6 year warranty. The life of a glass lined water heater is determined by the health of the anode rod.

 

[Twowaxhack]

Replace the water heater. That will most likely solve all your problems

You’ll need a double pole 30 amp breaker and 10ga wire for the typical electric water heater. If you can’t meet those requirements you can replace the factory elements with reduced wattage elements so they won’t overload the circuit.

That may be why you have 3500 watt elements now.

 

[SFL_Dave]

Thanks to everyone for your replies, I promise I'm reading up on the specifics raised in the comments to become more informed.

I've gotten three bids to replace: $2,000, $1,800, and $1,750. They are highly reviewed on Angi and long time plumbers in the area. They all said they would install a 40 gal Rheem with 6 year warranty, so I'm guessing they would get it though HD.

All said they would decline to repair (just re-install the upper thermostat).

If I want to do a separate leak detection, one company said $175 per hour, the other said $300. The other company said they would not give me an estimate but would do that after they installed if it seemed necessary.

The person who said $300 also added that he could do an "inspection" which would give strong indicators and very possibly resulting in not charging me anything, because there would be no reason to the the leak detection process.

I then told him, "But surely there is a minimum charge just for showing up." and he surprised me by saying not in that situation. As I type this out I wonder if I didn't understand him right.

On this website (Prohibited link) are instructions for using the water meter to detect a leak in your home. The sticking point in my mind is that the tank emptied somehow - I am certain - so it's going to try to fill. I'm confused on this.

It is surprising how one adapts when something breaks and you do without. I've begun washing my dishes immediately after using them, and letting them dry in the dishwasher. Extra scrubbing is needed - no hot water! I use those same dishes knife fork or spoon next time I eat. I live alone so I'm not getting any dirty looks.

Money is a big concern, and I'm not going to rush to figure this out. Any comments would be appreciated. I'm considering going with a much smaller tank to save $$.

 

[RonAKA]

I see a short Rheem water heater with lower wattage for $489 at Home Depot in the US. Replacing a water heater is not a difficult job. The hardest part is lugging the old one out and the new one in. With a short one, that should be much easier. The life of a water heater is determined by your regular checking and replacement of the anode rod, not by the warranty. A standard glass lined water heater should last a lifetime if you check and replace the anode rod at regular intervals.

 

[TomFOhio]

If you still hear water running after replacing it check to see if you have any piping going underground.

 

[SFL_Dave]

I no longer believe that there is a leak in the pipes. This is because I do the following:

• I turn the valve above the water tank "on" and
• run the "hot" at all sinks and the two showers
• after three or four days, there is still an appropriate amount of pressure at all faucets and showers.
• When I turn the valve to the on position, I no longer hear the sound of running water.

If you do not agree with my conclusion that there can not be a leak, let me know. My thinking is that if there was a break in the pipes, there would be no pressure at some part of the house.

This website says, "A water heater making noise like water running could simply be the water entering the tank. However, If the sound continues, it could indicate a leak or a broken pipe."

This reddit thread associates the noise with air rushing OUT of the tank which sounds like water emptying from the tank.

You may admire this or view it as pathetic, but I have discovered how I can access 30 seconds of very hot water. If I move the valve to "on" and take a shower at around 2 PM, the attic has heated up the water in the pipe which leads to the shower in bathroom #1. If I take a shower at 11 PM, the water in that shower is not hot at all.

Just got my quarterly property tax bill. My hours at work have been cut. I am simply adapting to not having a hot water heater. Next step? Maybe you will see me on Hoarders.

When not ignoring the issue I'm considering tankless. I will re-contact the three companies and ask for estimates on that. If anyone has a view on tankless I'm all ears. Thanks TomFOhio and RonAKA for your responses.

 

[SFL_Dave]

2 of the water heater companies refused to give estimates on tankless. I'm not making this up - one companies refuses to have anything to do with tankless! I suppose I could name the company if anyone cares.

One of the companies - the guy really tried to talk me out of the idea, but ultimately gave me a referral to an electrician and said he would do the install after the electrician did his thing for around $650, and he would not do the final connection, I would need to call the electrician back to do the final connection.

I have 12 gauge wire so I know that I will have to pay for some re-wiring.

This is really a side issue, but I have noticed that the pipe attached to my water relief valve keeps dripping. The pipe goes to the outside and is located just above where my dryer vent leaves the house. It might be a while before I have hot water restored to this house. I'd like to stop the dripping. Can anyone see how I could do this?

 

[CT18]

Its temp or pressure causing the T and P to drip. Do you still have the bottom element on.

 

[SFL_Dave]

The breakers have been flipped off since the "big bang" moment weeks ago.

But CT18 you nailed it. I opened up a few faucets and let all pressure out. Then I went outside and looked at the pipe. No drip!

Thanks very much!

 

[SFL_Dave]

Well, OK, again I have a question - again just trying to understand, hope you don't mind.



With the valve in the off position, I drained out all water from all facets and showers. After draining one or two, there was just drips at the other faucets.

Then, after 12 hours, I went outside to look, and the drip had started up again. Meaning => the pressure is back. I went inside to verify. I turned on faucets to the hot position, and yes, 5 or 6 seconds of water came out. I went outside and the drip had stopped.

Question: Why/how is pressure building back up with the brass Wolverine valve staying in the off position?

 

[Twowaxhack]

The valve may not be holding.

or

The hot side is pressurizing when a faucet is turned on by backfeeding the hot from the cold water line.

For this free info I want you to feed a stray animal as payment.

 

[skeezix]

I did that once a coupla years ago. Was camping in a very remote area in southern Utah. Miles and miles from nowhere. When I arose early in the morning there was a dirty, scrawny dog snooping around my make-shift camp site. No collar. It was either a coyote or the sorriest dog (or wolf) I'd ever seen. And it had the biggest, saddest eyes too.
I opened a can of Progresso soup and poured it into a bowl and gave it to the dog/coyote/whatever.
After breaking camp, I opened the truck door and the dog/coyote/wolf/whatever jumped right in and plopped down in the passenger seat! After some tugging and pulling I did manage to get him/her out and I drove off.
Prolly left there by somebody. I hope the thing is okay. Very, very sad.

 

[Twowaxhack]

I did that once a coupla years ago. Was camping in a very remote area in southern Utah. Miles and miles from nowhere. When I arose early in the morning there was a dirty, scrawny dog snooping around my make-shift camp site. No collar. It was either a coyote or the sorriest dog (or wolf) I'd ever seen. And it had the biggest, saddest eyes too.
I opened a can of Progresso soup and poured it into a bowl and gave it to the dog/coyote/whatever.
After breaking camp, I opened the truck door and the dog/coyote/wolf/whatever jumped right in and plopped down in the passenger seat! After some tugging and pulling I did manage to get him/her out and I drove off.
Prolly left there by somebody. I hope the thing is okay. Very, very sad.

That was a skinwalker….

 

[SFL_Dave]

I will feed the next stray I come across, in the mean time I sent this website $20.00 to pay for the advice I've been getting, thanks.

The hot water line gets re-pressured in about 5 hours. I'm half tempted to replace that pressure relief valve. I see one at HD for just $15. But in a few months I will be installing tankless so not much point. I intend to have a little one, but I will have the electrician install heavy gauge wire in case the next people who live here want a higher KW tankless unit.

 

[havasu]

in the mean time I sent this website $20.00 to pay for the advice I've been getting, thanks

We appreciate this. As said many times before, I volunteer my time to help out in here, but my boss pays alot of money to keep the lights on in here!