Some help with outside faucet - T joint

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Mark2810

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Hello all,

I recently was doing some DIY and wanted to unsolder a 1/2 pipe going outside to a bib (outside faucet) and attached vacuum breaker. Long story and pointless story, the 1/2 pipe was corkscrewed and sheared off.

Now I have a little 1/2 piece stuck inside a T-joint and it is dripping water. I'd say it's about a drop a second. All faucets, showers, have been turned on. 1/2 pipe is not budging.

Any solutions to take off the rest of that crummy little 1/2 piece so I can finally solder a new 1/2 pipe, adapter, and new bib?

*Propane was used to heat the joint.
Where do I point flame for max effectiveness to desolder?
Does the bread trick really work?

0HlugvL

0HlugvL
 

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Drop the propane and go grab the yellow can burns hotter you need to make sure that all water is out of that pipe before you try to desolder it if there's water in that pipe you're just going to burn the pipe trying to pull it out
 
I would cut out everything...(the tee and 1/2' branch...use 2 slip couplings on your 3/4 measure your branch...put a male adapter on the silcock end thread the silcock on slide it thru the wall to your new tee bench solder your tee connections with short pieces of copper putthat in place solder those connections first...soldering your 1/2 conn last
 
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I would cut out everything...(the tee and 1/2' branch...use 2 slip couplings on your 3/4 measure your branch...put a male adapter on the silcock end thread the silcock on slide it thru the wall to your new tee bench solder your tee connections with short pieces of copper putthat in place solder those connections first...soldering your 1/2 conn last
use mapp gas.....yellow can
 
The easiest solution is like what Geofd stated above, cut out the tee and some copper on either side of that tee and replace with new.

The other suggestion is to look at the main valve that shuts off the water to the house. If it is lower that the hose bibb, see if there is a bleeder on the side of that main valve. If so, take the cap off of that bleeder, open the faucets on your laundry tub as well as upstairs (to drain all of the water in the pipes), and that should get the water out of that tee fitting.

I also recommend the MAPP gas rather than propane, but, with a dry pipe, either should work. The propane just takes longer.

The bread trick actually does work, but I am not sure how it will help you in this situation. Normally it is used when soldering a new joint where there is water in the pipe that you are trying to solder. I don't know how you would use it when trying to unsolder a joint.
 
tip of the day
when removing a pipe from a socket.

apply flux to the joint, then s it gets hot, re solder the joint.
this makes it slippery, if you dont, it tends to get stuck

before you start, have a dry cloth handy, and a fitting brush
when you pull the pipe lose, QUICKLY AS IN HURRY UP NOW
clean the inside of the fitting with the brush.

this will make putting it back together a lot easier

another damn tip
break/cut the and off the fitting brush and put it in your drill
 
I would cut out everything...(the tee and 1/2' branch...use 2 slip couplings on your 3/4 measure your branch...put a male adapter on the silcock end thread the silcock on slide it thru the wall to your new tee bench solder your tee connections with short pieces of copper putthat in place solder those connections first...soldering your 1/2 conn last
You'll have to excuse me but what happened to the water in the 3/4" pipe? doesn't that still present a problem soldering the new stuff in? I know I'm going to be sorry for asking but I have to do it.:confused:
 
turn water off, cut the shrater valve end off of a bicycle pump
shove the hose in a pipe. and push the water out threw a open faucet

or, wrap your lips around the pipe and blow till you blow just air
So wouldn't that be an option to get rid of the offending water and remove the broken piece? Then again, if need be, to solder in new 1/2" spigot branch?
 
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