Solder flux residue flush

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Tumbleweed

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Assuming an ASTM B-813 flux was used by the plumber, how much time should be required to flush out the flux residue on the water lines in the house ? I ask because after the water heater, supply valve and some piping were replaced - my wife swears she could detect an off-odor(?) in the hot water for weeks. I can't say she is right or wrong, but she wasn't a happy camper for a long time. Never received a clear answer from plumber that installed the WH. Any helpful insight and-or wisdom is greatly appreciated so I can be prepared for this concern with the upcoming plumbing changes for the whole-house filter.
 
turn off the water at the water meter
open both valve's on your sink
disconnect the cold line on top of the water heater
pour into the pipe. 1 tablespoon Clorox bleach
buckle up the water heater
let the solution sit for 8 hours. or over night
flush the water heater and run water from all faucets the next day
the system is now sanitized


 
I'm not sure of the flux the plumber iwas using but most times you test and fill the heater and thats it you may get air
if it wasn't bled but depending on water quality and the source of your water you may be smelling it
what does it smell like if rotten eggs you may need to change the anode rod and he would not know that until the unit was heating and in use for a bit i forget what the replacement anode rode is made of IF thats the awnser
have you given the heater a good flush first??????
 
Flux residue for "water soluble" flux can last in readily detectable aspects to folks with sensitive receptors for easily more than three weeks.
This is my own experience from customer reports.
It is just one more reason that I say that ProPress is far superior method of joining fittings.
OMG, working on schools, condos, and high density buildings turned from flushing-the-flux time/water waste then waiting weeks for complaints to stop to ZILCH.
 
Thanks all, I am on city water and the WH uses natural gas and a Bradford brand unit if that is useful. The smell is best described as sour-foul, but not as bad as driving past a waste-water treatment plant. Bad eggs, maybe? It has come back on a number of occasions and clears up after letting the shower run for 10 minutes. We found the shower seems to allow the passage of the highest volume of hot water. I will grab a hose and drain the WH for now. Hope to hear more feedback from all of you.
 
As stated, the anode might need changing to a zinc/aluminum anode if you are getting rotten egg smell.
 
Well that’s done. I dropped the thermostat to the pilot position, turned the ‘supply’ ball valve to the off position and opened the drain valve. I opened the pressure release at the top of the tank to break any vacuum. Took forever due to the tiny opening (1/4” if that) on the drain valve. Once the water was drained, I opened the supply valve for about 15 seconds to flush out any loose residual debris. If it makes sense to anyone, after refilling the WH, when I opened the sink faucet to get rid of any air trapped in the hot water line, as the trapped air pockets reached the faucet I did get some black spitting. After that the water ran clear. The black spots of water wiped right up. Is this significant or mean anything ? Thanks in advance.
 
Black gunk spitting out is normal.

The water might return to stinky again in a few days.
 
Thank you to everyone that responded with feedback and recommendations. Flushed the water heater back on Aug 23 and the odor issue has not returned.
One last question on the flushing process. Would the process to flush out the sediment be more effective if I turn on the cold water supply to the heater after opening the WH drain, them closing the supply valve once the water temperature in the drain hose drops off. I ask this because I observed the natural gravity drain process was so slow even with the nearest hot water faucet and the WH's pressure release valve open. If having more pressure that just gravity could be better at flushing out the sediments. Or, am I overthinking this process.
Kindest regards and wishing everyone a nice Labor Day weekend.
 
Geofd. Appreciate the response. There is only the ball valve on the cold water inlet to the heater. I can use this technique the next time I need to flush the sediments. I just won't open the hot water faucets as there would be no vacuum created preventing the tank to drain.
 
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