shut-off valve cap

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pf-sj

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Hello! I have a quarter turn shut off valve under the kitchen sink that's intended to supply water to an ice maker. The valve is new and was installed by a plumber. However, we removed the ice maker and don't plan to get one. So, the valve is just sitting in the off-position. Is that safe enough or should I cap it for extra protection in case it leaks or is accidentally switched-on?

I bought a 1/4in compression cap which will thread on the valve but I feel like that's not sufficient. Should that cap do the job or should I tape the thread when using this cap or use a ferrule with it or is there a better approach for this scenario?

Pic of the valve, cap, and ferrule are attached. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 

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It's fine. Make sure you use that compression sleeve.
 
That compression sleeve looks similar to a ferrule. Can you explain its purpose?
 
That compression sleeve looks similar to a ferrule. Can you explain its purpose?
It is a ferrule. Some call it a compression sleeve. It's just like putting a supply tube on a valve. You need to use the compression sleeve/ferrule. It creates the seal between the valve and cap.
 
I was confused about the ferrule because I can see how it would be used with a compression nut that has the plastic water line running through it for the ice maker. But using the cap I was afraid the the ferrule would just get stuck inside the shut-off valve when I tightened the cap and possibly not even help make the seal but it sounds like that's the correct way to go. Thanks for the responses.
 
Did that ferrule come with that cap ?

Ive never seen a ferrule used like that......IMO it will not seal.
 
No, it did not come with the cap. It was just left behind by the plumber with a compression nut that could be used with a new ice maker if we got one. I was thinking a little rubber washer or something would be better to create a seal. Maybe I should just leave her alone and let the shut-off valve do its job :)
 
I'd wrap the valve handle with duct tape, or some stiff wire to hold the handle in the closed position. That should prevent any accidental opening of the valve. Inquisitive and persistent children are a horse of a different feather.
 
I would put teflon tape on the valve threads, just for grins, then the cap.
Then duct tape the handle as Riickk suggested.
Even if it could leak a little like this, it beats a full stream shooting out.
 
Use the cap and a little piece of rubber like you said, even if it leaks its better than the full on spray. You don't need the cap, but since your asking it might make you feel better.
 
I'm not a plumber... but enjoy reading this forum.

Is that a push to fit (SharkBite) shut off valve?

I'm surprised that a licensed plumber installed a PTP valve instead of sweating on a valve, or using a valve with a compression fitting.

If it was my home and kitchen cabinets, I'd want that contraption removed, even if I was going to need an ice maker line in the future.

I'd want a copper stop sweated on if I wasn't going to need a valve in the future, or quality Dahl valve sweated on that branch if it was going to be needed in the future, all by a different Plumber.

How many licensed plumbers in this forum use PTP shut off valves for residential work?

I used push to fit braided connectors on my gas water heater, but don't consider that a permanent repair because the unit will need to be changed 15 years down the road and my basement is unfinished and frequented.

I would have sweated all the water heater connections if my basement was finished, or the heater was in an upstairs closet.

As a homeowner who isn't afraid to tackle my own plumbing repairs or upgrades, should I be more trustful of PTP fittings for anything besides temporary work?
 
I'm not a plumber... but enjoy reading this forum.

Is that a push to fit (SharkBite) shut off valve?

I'm surprised that a licensed plumber installed a PTP valve instead of sweating on a valve, or using a valve with a compression fitting.

If it was my home and kitchen cabinets, I'd want that contraption removed, even if I was going to need an ice maker line in the future.

I'd want a copper stop sweated on if I wasn't going to need a valve in the future, or quality Dahl valve sweated on that branch if it was going to be needed in the future, all by a different Plumber.

How many licensed plumbers in this forum use PTP shut off valves for residential work?

I used push to fit braided connectors on my gas water heater, but don't consider that a permanent repair because the unit will need to be changed 15 years down the road and my basement is unfinished and frequented.

I would have sweated all the water heater connections if my basement was finished, or the heater was in an upstairs closet.

As a homeowner who isn't afraid to tackle my own plumbing repairs or upgrades, should I be more trustful of PTP fittings for anything besides temporary work?
I don't consider them permanent. We only use them temporarily. Others are different. I would say a large majority of Plumbers or anyone in the pipe trades don't consider them permanent. I think technically they are rated as "permanent".
 
I typically use sweat on valves or FIP valves. Sometimes compression.

I for sure don’t use caps with threads to cap a compression outlet stop valve. The seal is not made with the threads.
I use a compression plug and a compression nut. Or I braze a short piece of coppa tube shut and install it into the outlet.
 
I'm not a plumber... but enjoy reading this forum.

Is that a push to fit (SharkBite) shut off valve?

I'm surprised that a licensed plumber installed a PTP valve instead of sweating on a valve, or using a valve with a compression fitting.

If it was my home and kitchen cabinets, I'd want that contraption removed, even if I was going to need an ice maker line in the future.

I'd want a copper stop sweated on if I wasn't going to need a valve in the future, or quality Dahl valve sweated on that branch if it was going to be needed in the future, all by a different Plumber.

How many licensed plumbers in this forum use PTP shut off valves for residential work?

I used push to fit braided connectors on my gas water heater, but don't consider that a permanent repair because the unit will need to be changed 15 years down the road and my basement is unfinished and frequented.

I would have sweated all the water heater connections if my basement was finished, or the heater was in an upstairs closet.

As a homeowner who isn't afraid to tackle my own plumbing repairs or upgrades, should I be more trustful of PTP fittings for anything besides temporary work?

Thanks for the detailed reply. It does look like a push to fit connection. I've attached additional photos of the shut-off valve to the sink with the ice maker valve in case you can confirm that the approach looks less than professional.
 

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Holy SMOKES!

ProPress Copper fittings & Push to Fit under your kitchen sink!

Did the same Plumber who installed the shut off for your refrigerator install the ProPress copper fittings too?

If so, it probably means he can't sweat a copper joint properly!

Like I said, I'm not a Plumber... but do my own work when I need to unless it's over my head.

If a broken arm or leg prevented me from a DIY repair or project and I had to hire a plumber and the plumber wanted to install push to fit and/or ProPress fittings, I'd send him packing.

More importantly, I'd send him out the door if that was simply his original plan... and was willing to sweat copper... because by that point... I would have lost complete trust in his ability as a honest trades person.

Sweating copper is easy and is a required skill for a plumber who makes service calls to residential properties.

I can't imagine a builder specifying ProPress fittings when your home was built, so my guess is that they were not original to your home and recently installed.

I posted pics to this forum of work a plumber did for me a few years ago when I wanted my main shut off valve changed ahead of a required water meter change.

Cutting & flaring the 3/4 copper supply stubbed out of my 70 year old poured concrete basement wall was something I wanted a pro to handle.

Got to know when to DIY and when to hire a pro.

If your Plumber installed that Pro-Press stuff when installing the push to fit shut off, I'll be very interested to hear what the real Pro's in this forum think of the work you had done.
 
Holy SMOKES!

ProPress Copper fittings & Push to Fit under your kitchen sink!

Did the same Plumber who installed the shut off for your refrigerator install the ProPress copper fittings too?

If so, it probably means he can't sweat a copper joint properly! .....
While I don't like push-fit or propress, this assumption is dead wrong.

I'm a licensed plumber.

Every plumber I know uses propress, I catch a lot of grief over it from them, but that doesn't make them "afraid" of sweating.

Copper is becoming a barbaric relic in plumbing, mainly over price, but also galvanic (electrolytic) corrosion, which doesn't occur in plastics.

The same silly debate occurred back in the 50's when PVC first came out, turns out PVC has twice the life of CI.
 
many years ago the company that i worked for did a demolition of a kitchen,
so that a new kitchen could be installed. some one did not put one of those
compression plug and caps as show in the picture which we did all the time. the cabinet guy installed the new cabinets and i guess someone touched ever so lightly one of the shutoff ball valves, the water ran for the weekend and ruined the job and the house . So ALWAYS INSTALL ONE OF THOSE CAP AND PLUG THINGS.
 
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