Shut-Off Valve: Best, Safest, & Most Long-Lasting?

[DIYEnthusiast]

While installing a new water softener, I discovered that the shut-off valve for the cold water inlet line needs to be replaced. It will not shut off when I turn the handle (+20 years old), and I do not want to close the water supply at the main water line.

Any suggestions on an ideal replacement? Seeking the best, safest, and most long-lasting shut-off valve to date.

 

[havasu]

Sorry, but you say your "shut off valve for the cold water inlet needs to be replaced", then say "I do not want to close the water supply at the main water line", so my question is why not? Are you in a multi-housing complex? Short of freezing the pipe, or wearing scuba equipment, I'm at a loss.

 

[DIYEnthusiast]

The main water shutoff valve to the house is located near the end of my property line in a covered box within a “pit” underground. Tools are required to operate the city shut-off valve.

However, the shutoff valve to the water softener is conveniently located inside my home. The handle is more user-friendly.

 

[wood4d]

ball valve

 

[Helper Dave]

1/4 turn ball valves ftw.

But yeah, if you're replacing it, and it's the first valve downstream from the main valve outside, you'll need to have the city come turn that off for the duration of the repair. Maybe that was your intention, but your post sounded a little off saying you didn't want to do that.

 

[Jim Jensen]

I would put a more convenient-to-use shut-off valve, out at the street, while I was replacing the one at the house......

 

[DIYEnthusiast]

The old valve is a copper sweat fitting. How about removing the old sweat fitting, soldering a male adapter onto the copper, and then threading a lead free 1/4 turn ball valve that has a lever handle with female connections on both ends? I plan to replace the copper tube with a 3/4 in. FIP x 3/4 in. MIP x 18 in. stainless steel water supply line.

 

[Helper Dave]

Why stainless? If you have a copper line now, I wouldn't risk getting stainless mixed up in there. The copper will corrode, and on your main line, at the primary shutoff inside your house, that's a huge unnecessary risk.

Stick with copper and the brass valve.

 

[walker63]

Check out my reply to this other post.

I also wanted something heavy duty and had a pro install a curb stop type of quarter turn shut off valve to replace and old gate valve type of shut off.

A required meter change prompted me to act in a way that whoever owns my home in 50 years will thank me for.

https://www.plumbingforums.com/threads/main-shut-off-valve-questions-w-photos.13897/post-105493

 

[Jeff Handy]

Where is the water meter?
Is it inside your house, or outside in that pit?
Your profile does not say what state or city you are living in.

If you are good at soldering, get the water turned off outside in the pit, then solder on a quality brass 1/4 turn lever handle valve, very close to where the service enters the building.
Before any fixtures, and before the meter if it is inside your house.

If soldering is difficult or not your skill level, a similar brass valve with compression couplings on each end would also be fine, they are very strong and reliable.

Once you get a new main shutoff installed inside the house, you can install that same kind of valve for your softener.

Actually, softeners usually have at least three valves, so change them all.

You might want to install a temporary grounding jumper when cutting your water line, if it is used to ground your breaker box or fuse box.