Shower valve too deep (too much thinset) Help!

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dfree86

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I have literally one thing preventing me from finishing my full bed/bath reno and it's that my installer used 1" of thinset instead of 3/8"- so now my shower valve is too deep in the wall. The water separator, mixer valve, and metal sleeves are now too short to fit the faceplate and handles. (see attached photos)

No replacement parts store has been able to help and the company (Artbath https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M9T4RW9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) seems to be located in China and not at all helpful. They don't have standard extension pieces, though they claim they are sending me an extension for the top valve and a thinner faceplate - in case that helps. But the problem is with my installation and not the product.

I'm trying to avoid at all costs ripping out the stone, cement board behind it, and shower body and re-doing the entire wall. Can anyone help?

I need an extra 1"of length on the metal sleeves, and both valve pieces (brass on top and plastic on bottom).

The stone is only 1/4" thick so it risks breaking if we try to cut the opening to fit the faceplate. We had thought about putting a rubber gasket between the faceplate and stone but how would you ever fully seal it?

I'm desperate here. The job is done but for this one stupid thing.
 

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Jeff Handy

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You can probably get an extension for that splined brass shaft at any plumbing supply house.
 

Jeff Handy

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Can you open the wall from the back side, and shim the valve and pipes more forward?
You probably have to free the valve from the framing first.
 

dfree86

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Can you open the wall from the back side, and shim the valve and pipes more forward?
You probably have to free the valve from the framing first.
Roof drains and vents immediately behind, then exterior wall. Can't get behind it.
 

dfree86

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You can probably get an extension for that splined brass shaft at any plumbing supply house.
What about the plastic piece beneath it for the mix valve? Are extensions for those pieces standard?

Might not matter anyway because if I can't get extensions for the metal sleeves (in black no less. good luck.) then it won't hold the faceplate.
 

breplum

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The price you pay for Cheap plumbing will be borne for decades to come.
No repair parts, no warranty, no customer service, NO Extensions like other decent mfrs.
Do not buy and install cheap plumbing.
Tear out the stone(destroy, sorry) replace with a reputable mfr's line of plumbing and retile.
That's your only option now.
 

Diehard

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Frame out a square foot or so around the valve assembly and refinish the wall the thickness required. So you end up with a recessed area with the fixture trim properly shown.
 

Jeff Handy

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This is a goofy idea, but if you were able to somehow cut out the tile in a perfect circle to match the round trim, you could probably inset the round trim in the hole.
You would probably have to glue on a few little stops onto the back of the opening, to support the ring from falling too far in.
Then grout the small gap around the flush or slightly inset ring, and cover with a bead of pure silicone.
Or just use silicone only.
Very strange idea, but just throwing it out there, it might help inspire a better one!
 

dfree86

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Frame out a square foot or so around the valve assembly and refinish the wall the thickness required. So you end up with a recessed area with the fixture trim properly shown.
This would be like a little recessed cutout/box in which just the faucet handle sits? Not sure my wife would go for the look of that, though we may be past aesthetics at this point.
 

Diehard

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This would be like a little recessed cutout/box in which just the faucet handle sits? Not sure my wife would go for the look of that, though we may be past aesthetics at this point.
I agree with you.
Just an option for consideration.
The way my wife thinks, if she see's it in a magazine first, she wouldn't mind it.
 

Diehard

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I may be missing something but you said, "installer used 1" of thinset instead of 3/8". Wouldn't that make it 5/8" too short?
But then you say you need 1" extensions.

How much does that face plate extend from the finished wall?
 
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Riickk

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You're going to be looking at this plumbing & tile job every morning for the next umpteen years. Tear out the entire end-wall, and have it re-done correctly, while you still have access to more of the same tile.

Like detailed plans for a war, a planned renovation never survives contact with the enemy ...err.... Reality. Renovations always take longer and cost more than you planned; Hopefully this is the very worst and most expensive problem you encounter.

.
 

DFBonnett

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This would be like a little recessed cutout/box in which just the faucet handle sits? Not sure my wife would go for the look of that, though we may be past aesthetics at this point.
I had a customer who had this in their bath. It looked different, but not bad. I remember wondering how it came about.
 

RenewDave

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It’s gotta go. Rip it out and install it again. Sucks, but like Rick said, your gonna look at that mistake every day for the rest of your life. It will drive you crazy.(At least it’s would me).
 

Diehard

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If it was deeper than an 1" or so you could have a usable shelve. but it's not.
f58571d50f0b3e20c4f5880bcee31afe.jpgWhat does your finished wall look like? That's not it in your pictures, is it?
 

TomFOhio

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Will the valve pull forward if you pull on it? If so maybe you could get something like a shim behind it. If not then you better get
the hammer out and then tell your contractor to put the correct thickness on.
 

dfree86

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The wall is 1/4" stone, so if it comes out, in addition to the new hardiboard behind it, I have to buy another $600 slab and have it all re-done. Might still be the right call, but it gonna be a tough sell.

Is it not possible to remove these valve cartridges at the base (in the back where they meet the brass) and just but longer ones? If we could get the actual functional pieces to be long enough, we might be able to have the metal sleeves made, since they're more cosmetic.
 
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