Shower Pan leak at drain

[digitalplumber]

It appears that our shower pan has a leak at the drain. Simply replacing the gasket has not helped, or else I did not let things dry out enough.

In any event, I need to know the steps to replace the fiberglass Royal pan, once I remove it and completely replace the drain.

What should be under it? any pictures or how to videos would be a great help.


Thanks,

Ed

 

[Caduceus]

See if this link helps on removal. You never really know what is under it and not all installs are the same. You will have to use your noggin to adapt the info to suit your situation. Good luck.
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZaKojzU2-8]YouTube - How to Remove Fiberglass Shower Pan Video[/ame]

 

[digitalplumber]

Thanks, that is informative but, I need to know once it is removed and after I attach a new drain is there anything that should go down under the fiberglass pan? to support it? another plastic liner?

Thanks

 

[LiQuId]

Why replace it ?? is it cracked ?

it may be a much simpler fix than you think .

Anyways, instead of drilling a ton like the video says ( assuming the pan you take out is garbage ) just use a cupsaw that is bigger than the drain and Drill through the pan.

 

[digitalplumber]

I'm sorry. Maybe I have not been clear.


I have a leak that is coming from the drain, it is not sealing correctly. If I coat everything with silicone, it stops but moisture under the pan does not allow the silicone to dry, breaks down and starts leaking again.

So I want to remove the pan, replace the drain assembly and reinstall.

I have no issue on how to get it out, I just want to make sure i re install correctly.

 

[LiQuId]

unscrew the drain body, use a hair dryer to heat up the pan body a little to let the water evaporate.

Rubber gasket goes under the pan. Dont use Sillicone above, use putty.

if the leak is coming from the p-trap then you will have to either go in from the floor ( above ) or from the celing ( below ) to replace. if its just the drain then I would install the gasket in the proper location ( under the base at the drain body ) and use putty above ( under the grate flange )

Sillicone is garbage, it always shrinks and then leaks, over time.... putty = No worrys for a LONG time. and it works even if the surface is damp.

Failing this I would say you Should Spend a buck or 2 and hire a professional, and Win the battle.

 

[LiQuId]

nothing goes under the pan, the pan is The seal.

 

[digitalplumber]

Thanks, no I think the leak was between the drain pipe and the round black gasket that the lock nut tightens down on.

SO should I open that up, remove rubber gasket and let it dry? then use plumbers putty and replace lock nut?

 

[LiQuId]

The gasket goes under the pan, shouldn't matter if its wet or not.

Putty... yes, Make a round Snake of it, put it around the flange on the top of the pan and screw the works down, use a bunch and re collect what gets squeezed out.. dont worry, there is still plenty under the flange.

you only need to use the Drying method if you are intent on using sillicone as the surface needs to be dry with sillicone.

 

[LiQuId]

I suppose I should add, Remember the Pop bottle when you screw it down, A pop bottle holds near 80 psi of pressure in it and nobody herf's on it when they put the top back on.. sometimes you dont need to screw the hell outta a thing to make it not leak... I would also USe pnk teflon tape on the Screw threads..

 

[digitalplumber]

NO I am not making myself clear. Let me take a picture.

 

[LiQuId]

Do that, But I have installed Hundreds of these pans and drain bodys and never had a problem with a leak yet.
a picture would help clarify things, perhaps you have a shower drain that I have not seen in 16 years plumbing .

 

[digitalplumber]

In this picture, see the busted up black gasket or rubber ring? It goes around the drain coming thru the slab and the inside of the drain. Then the busted up lock ring goes on top.

You know!

 

[LiQuId]

Simpler system that this out there now... and yes I have seen this system.

you will need a new assemblly anyways, they come with instructions.

This system relied on the gasket being squeezed around the pipe, and that often leaked which is why they dont use em anymore ( not that I;ve seen ) the new ones frok Otey are double sealed and dont offer the same problems.

I suggest that you hire a plumber to do this as its not that complicated to do, wont cost much and will simplify things, most plumbers dont re-use these when they take em out.

Sorry if you dont find the advice here helpfull, one can only do so much through internet corrospondance. perhaps another Red seal plumber Will chime in with some better advice, its now my weekend and I am done answering plumbing questions.... I have done all I can..... no charge.

 

[phishfood]

A drain that is similar to what you have, but uses PVC glue to attach the drain to the pipe will provide a much more positive seal. The downside is that the drainpipe has to be almost perfectly aligned with the shower drain.

If you choose to use the same type of drain that you have, the best advice I have is to work the new rubber gasket as far down as possible between the pipe and the drain before you try tightening it down with the threaded locking ring. If the gasket seems to "hang up" on one side, use a hammer handle or the like stuck down into the pipe to pull the pipe sideways, and a large flat screwdriver to push the gasket in further.

Hope this helps.

 

[digitalplumber]

Simpler system that this out there now... and yes I have seen this system.

you will need a new assemblly anyways, they come with instructions.

This system relied on the gasket being squeezed around the pipe, and that often leaked which is why they dont use em anymore ( not that I;ve seen ) the new ones frok Otey are double sealed and dont offer the same problems.

I suggest that you hire a plumber to do this as its not that complicated to do, wont cost much and will simplify things, most plumbers dont re-use these when they take em out.

Sorry if you dont find the advice here helpfull, one can only do so much through internet corrospondance. perhaps another Red seal plumber Will chime in with some better advice, its now my weekend and I am done answering plumbing questions.... I have done all I can..... no charge.

Dont know why you think I think you have not been helpful? You have , I think until I posted the picture you did not understand me.

Thanks

 

[digitalplumber]

A drain that is similar to what you have, but uses PVC glue to attach the drain to the pipe will provide a much more positive seal. The downside is that the drainpipe has to be almost perfectly aligned with the shower drain.

If you choose to use the same type of drain that you have, the best advice I have is to work the new rubber gasket as far down as possible between the pipe and the drain before you try tightening it down with the threaded locking ring. If the gasket seems to "hang up" on one side, use a hammer handle or the like stuck down into the pipe to pull the pipe sideways, and a large flat screwdriver to push the gasket in further.

Hope this helps.

Thanks, the gasket has a flat end and a beveled end, which goes in first?

 

[digitalplumber]

How does some one get this type off without removing the pan, to use a wingtight replacement?....since it has a lock nut on the underside.

 

[phishfood]

Beveled end first, the plastic nut bears on the flat end and forces the beveled end into a corresponding bevel in the drain body.

Latest question, if the pan is high enough off of the floor you could TRY cutting a hole in the drywall on either the back or side of the shower and seeing if you could get to it that way. I wouldn't hold out a lot of hope for that method, but it might be worth trying before you go through the work of removing the pan.

 

[digitalplumber]

Beveled end first, the plastic nut bears on the flat end and forces the beveled end into a corresponding bevel in the drain body.

Latest question, if the pan is high enough off of the floor you could TRY cutting a hole in the drywall on either the back or side of the shower and seeing if you could get to it that way. I wouldn't hold out a lot of hope for that method, but it might be worth trying before you go through the work of removing the pan.

Thanks, beveled is first. Great suggestion will take a close look at that would certianally be better than removing tile!

Thanks!