Shower handle doesn't screw in enough to push trim plate snug...

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Plumb Newb

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Hi there,

In our newly purchased (but 90s built) house we had to replace our Price Pfister shower cartridge to stop a leak and needed to update the trim too as our model is no longer manufactured. We talked to Price Pfister, got all the required parts, finally managed to pull the stuck old valve out (thanks to some help on here), but now there is a slight problem with the new parts - the handle sticks out a bit too far, and won't snug the trim plate against the shower. I'll attach a pic of the side view.

Talked to Price Pfister again and they don't have a part to fix it (only an extender which is the opposite problem to what we have). They suggested we move the valve back - but this means tearing out the shower/wall. Does anyone have any ideas for a simpler fix, even if its not super elegant? One day we will redo this bathroom as everything in it is quite dated, but weren't planning to/can't afford to right away. We I'd be happy with any solution that lets us use the shower without leaking water in the wall for now. I was thinking if I could just get a thicker plate it''d be perfect....or something to go in behind the trim plate...but I think it needs to be a decent fit to keep the water out.

If anyone has an idea, I'd be glad for it! Thanks!
 
Ok, here's a couple more. Thing is, the plate is flopsy, either I push it forward and leave a gap behind, or push it back and leave a gap at the base of the handle. Its a bit too much to just use caulking, I think. I might be able to jerry rig something...any advice on how to make it watertight would be great.
 

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Only idea is a different handle.
Such a bad design, PP sucks sometimes, sorry for your situation.
 
It appears the diverter is not set far enough back in the wall. Is there anyway you can wedge a block between the back of the shower wall and the pipes to get that diverter farther back.
 
It appears the diverter is not set far enough back in the wall. Is there anyway you can wedge a block between the back of the shower wall and the pipes to get that diverter farther back.

You're right, its not far enough back - though with the original (1990s) stem/handle, everything did fit fine.

Your idea is intriguing. It might be possible to wedge something in there. Should I be concerned about putting pressure on the pipes, though?
 
As long as you do not have plastic piping it should be fine just had to do that today with the same brand on a customers house
 
You might have to remove or adjust the screws that hold the valve body to the framing, if it has them.

Some installers skip the screws at the valve.
Let’s hope yours did!

Plastic or composite shims are a good choice to try to push your valve back farther behind the shower wall.

You can find these shims in the millwork section at big box home centers.
They are used to adjust doors and windows during installation, and are ok around humid locations.
You can stack them, and also glue or nail or screw them in place.
Don’t leave just loose, operating the valve can make them slip out.
Liquid Nails or similar glue could work.
 
Thank you everyone for the replies and ideas.

It turns out, the valve is secured to the framing with some metal straps, and its not possible to get at the screws. There is really no give in the valve's position.

Looks like we're going to try to buy some kind of extra plate to put behind the real plate. It'll be a temporary solution, hopefully get us by for a year or more. Fingers crossed it'll work out.
 
For a temporary, or maybe even permanent solution, you could look at ceiling fan medallions.

They are pvc or solid foam round plates used to dress up the ceiling where the fan is attached.

Some of them come fairly small and flat and plain.
You can carefully cut out the required hole in the center with a jigsaw, Rotozip, whatever.

I have seen a few similar trim plates sold to install under other types of ceiling light fixtures, as an escutcheon to hide an ugly hole.
 
Post pics of inside the hole around the valve.

Maybe there is a solution that we will see, that you missed.

Like cutting the straps, forget the screws.

Also, post the exact diameter of the valve trim plate, and also of the hole cut in the shower wall.

I am eyeballing the trim plate at approx 8.5 inches.
 
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