Shower drain leaking

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dblhelix

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I have (what I believe is) a Sioux Chief 827-2B no caulk brass drain. It was in the home when I bought it 6 years ago. Recently I discovered a small leak coming out of the drain. It appears that water is getting underneath the outer lip and going through a small leak in the sealing washer.

I am trying to get the drain apart, but I cannot get the internal compression nut to move at all. I am also not sure what I can use to loosen the outer lock nut as well. I've got a small hole in the ceiling on the 1st floor below the drain where I cleared out the damp drywall.

I'm very much a novice at all of this, but from what I have read the likely solution is to replace the sealing washer (gasket) and re-seal the outer lip of the drain to the shower bed. I just need some help getting there. Any advice on tools or techniques would be greatly appreciated.

Here's a link to the model I believe I have:
http://www.siouxchief.com/Drainage/...howerDrain/No-Caulk-Shower-Module-Drain.RW2II
http://www.siouxchief.com/Resource_/ProductMedia/303/827 Installation Instructions.pdf

I've also attached some photos. The white paste-like stuff appears to be caulk that never cured or has just broken down. I've been scooping that stuff out since I opened the drain up.

02012012_01_e.jpg

02122012_02_e.jpg
 
Considering that the drain body and compression nut are brass, they have likely corroded together.

Since you already have a hole cut in the ceiling below, cut it out large enough to work through. Remove the large nut on the bottom that secures the drain to the shower, then cut the PVC pipe several inches below the drain. Install a new drain using plumber's putty between the lip of the drain and the shower, tighten, let set for several minutes, retighten. Then reattach the PVC pipe using a coupling.

I personally have learned to dislike the brass bodied drains. I have seen them corrode and break completely free of the shower. I would use a PVC body drain with a glue in connection.
 
You could Try some anti Seize spray, but i would wager the easyest way would be to cut it off.
 
Cutting does sound easier. Would a dremel work well or is there something that would work better to cut the ring without hitting the shower body?
 
And less chance of error I'm sure. Would I want to cut up from the bottom of the ring on each side? My main objective is to avoid hitting the shower base.
 
Get a mini hacksaw, new ones work good IF you have the availablle space ... But also bring a few hacksaw blades. Wear a glove, tape em where you hold, get a holder Etc..

Start with a 24 Tpi, or even a 32 Tpi blade and cut kinda diagonal across the nut Creating a score that you can now follow with a more aggresive blade like an 18 tpi ( I should not that you could use the same blade for the entire process, I have free access to all these blades so sometimes use a few ) Basically thats it, When you get through the nut yoiu can likely pry it free from the rest with a screwdriver, if its really seized then repeat the procedure in a few places. Once the nut is free the entire works should be able to be freed.

Alternately ( but more potential danger to the base ) Would be to cut right against the shower base, severing the whole works in 2 peices. you must be very sure of your hand for this.
 
Hey guys just wanted to follow up. Cut out the old drain and installed the new one over the weekend and all looks good! I tried using a drain wrench tool I found at Lowes to get the locking ring off, but to no avail. Used a small open ended hacksaw to cut the ring off, then began to pry parts of it off of the threads. Eventually was able to use a screwdriver and a few taps of a hammer on one of the little nubs around the locking ring to get it to move.

Cut off the pipe below the drain and removed the old drain body. Attached a coupler and a new piece of pipe (cut to length), then installed the new drain. Gave a little extra time for the silicone to cure and tested it out. No water on the floor below and no slow leaks coming out of the drain, looks to be watertight!

Thank you phishfood and LiQuId for all of your advice on this. You both were very helpful and saved me a lot of time and money. Plus I got some good knowledge out of it too!
 
Here it is. Turned out quite well IMO, much better looking than the old one.

02092012_01_e.jpg
 
Thanks for sharing. This is my exact situation. Which do you consider better P. Putty or silicone.

Thanks!
 
I used silicone for this drain. I'm sure putty works just fine as well. If you do end up going with silicone make sure you get 100% silicone. If its got anything water soluable in it (water cleanup is how I see it on the packaging) it will break down and you will likely have another leak. 100% silicone or putty and you are good to go! Good luck.
 
Thanks!
The guy in the plumbing department very highly suggested the putty. So I have everything I need to give it a go. I will take some pics and report back. It might be a few days as i may have to head out of town for a while.
 
i have never had a leak with putty, silly cone.. yup a few that opened up later, the putty will recieve a little bit of water and keep itself puttyish.. the sillicone ( even the 100% stuff IMO ) will eventually break down after enough cooling and heating happens.

job looks awesome btw :)
 
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