I just have a question about sewage pipes reducing. My kid bought his first house recently and to say the inspector was incompetent would be an insult to the incompetent. I repointed out most of the things I new would be unsafe, actually fail code or he just might want to replace before it becomes a problem. In our look over I noticed the something I've never seen before. Starting from the 1st floor drainage to the exit sewage pipe that exits out the basement wall 3ft off the basement floor that leads to his septic tank runs from 3" to a 18" drop to a 14ft 4" pipe that at 12 1/2 ft-ish has a reducer to a 6" long 3" section that transitions back to a 4" exit y cleanout. Is the 4" to 3" to 4" an issue? Seems like it'd be a choke point.
Sewage pipe transition size... YIKES!
- Thread starter Pupsdad
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Jeff Handy
Pro Handyman, NOT A Pro Plumber
Looks like a diy cluster fudge.
It still might drain anyway.
Post more pics, your description sounds hard to follow.
It still might drain anyway.
Post more pics, your description sounds hard to follow.
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you may not decrease the sewer size you can only increase the sewer size
the simple reason is that stuff is going to accumulate at the decrease and cause a plug in the line
the simple reason is that stuff is going to accumulate at the decrease and cause a plug in the line
So to fix it
So he needs to fix it and the only way to fix it is he needs to cut back to where they went from 3" to 4"? I can't see much of away to cut much forward. The clean out and increaser to 4" is both pretty flush with the wall.
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Jeff Handy
Pro Handyman, NOT A Pro Plumber
You can carefully saw off and chisel off all the four inch hubs that are starting and ending this cluster fudge.
Then chisel or file down the ridges, and add a no hub or shielded coupling at each open end, and join together with a piece of four inch pipe.
Then chisel or file down the ridges, and add a no hub or shielded coupling at each open end, and join together with a piece of four inch pipe.
Thanks. I appreciate your help and I'm sure my son will too.
Helper Dave
Well-Known Member
Just another option, if you don't mind buying a $20-$30 bit to do one thing:
Cut flush on the left side of that wye, and use a 4" socket saver bit (available at any big box hardware store) to get the pipe out of the hub. I find setting your drill on low speed helps when using those on ABS. The stuff tends to melt more than shred out like PVC does.
Then, you should have enough room to jam a new piece of pipe in. Use PVC/ABS transition glue on that side, and have a no hub coupling on the pipe on the other side. Be liberal with the glue, and twist and shove and curse to get the pipe in. Slide your coupling over, tighten everything down, and yer done.
Cut flush on the left side of that wye, and use a 4" socket saver bit (available at any big box hardware store) to get the pipe out of the hub. I find setting your drill on low speed helps when using those on ABS. The stuff tends to melt more than shred out like PVC does.
Then, you should have enough room to jam a new piece of pipe in. Use PVC/ABS transition glue on that side, and have a no hub coupling on the pipe on the other side. Be liberal with the glue, and twist and shove and curse to get the pipe in. Slide your coupling over, tighten everything down, and yer done.
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I have your fix for you
If you do it like i say you will be ok.
cut the reducers out, and remove the pipe ,
measure what you took out and cut a piece of 4'' that length minus 1/4''
go to supply house and buy 2- 4'' plastic x 4'' plastic banded transistion no hub bands
the pipe inserts 1'' into a band. that is why a want that put cut the way i do
If you do it like i say you will be ok.
cut the reducers out, and remove the pipe ,
measure what you took out and cut a piece of 4'' that length minus 1/4''
go to supply house and buy 2- 4'' plastic x 4'' plastic banded transistion no hub bands
the pipe inserts 1'' into a band. that is why a want that put cut the way i do
