Setting a Toilet

[Jeff Knecht]

Good Morning,
Need to reset two toilets after bathroom remodels. I have installed a toilet maybe 6 times and have had pretty good luck. In the past, I always figured. that if the toilet leaked, the water would be visible pretty quick and I could mop up and reinstall. However, I went against the common practice/good sense of installing a tile product and instead, installed vinyl plank. Thus, if there is a slow leak, by the time I catch it, it could work its way into the subfloor and I will have to deal with that.
Is there a wax ring, that is DIYer friendly and makes more solid contact with the toilet? I usually have another person help with lining up the studs, snuggle the toilet down, and tighten the nuts down evenly on both sides but not overtighten, until there is a firm connection.

Any tried and true installation techniques would be appreciated.

 

[skeezix]

When I bought my last wax ring (at Lowes) I saw other wax rings of varying heights. You might go to Lowes or HD and have a look, or you could google "wax rings" on the Lowes or HH sites...

 

[Jeff Knecht]

When I bought my last wax ring (at Lowes) I saw other wax rings of varying heights. You might go to Lowes or HD and have a look, or you could google "wax rings" on the Lowes or HH sites...

Makes sense. Along with that, looking for a proven technique. If I mess up and have an undiscovered leak, I'll be using that toilet outside in the shed after my wife tosses me out.

 

[TomFOhio]

You can get a jumbo wax seal with horn. They have a little more wax on them.

 

[Jeff Handy]

Waxless rings are getting very popular.
Lots of posts on here about them.
They also can move a little if the floor has some give.
However, I never have used them, but plan to in near future.
My back is getting too old to lower onto wax with 100 percent bullseye every time.

As far as not noticing a leak.
There should be no open gaps that water can escape into the space below.
Fill any small gaps around or inside the flange with mortar, caulk, or extra wax.
If you built or encounter a sloppy floor penetration, with direct holes you can look down through, you will never catch a small leak, it will not be able to build up and run out under the toilet to alert you.

Also, if you caulk the toilet base, leave several inches open at the back, facing the wall, so a leak can escape to alert you.

 

[Jeff Knecht]

Waxless rings are getting very popular.
Lots of posts on here about them.
They also can move a little if the floor has some give.
However, I never have used them, but plan to in near future.
My back is getting too old to lower onto wax with 100 percent bullseye every time.

As far as not noticing a leak.
There should be no open gaps that water can escape into the space below.
Fill any small gaps around or inside the flange with mortar, caulk, or extra wax.
If you built or encounter a sloppy floor penetration, with direct holes you can look down through, you will never catch a small leak, it will not be able to build up and run out under the toilet to alert you.

Also, if you caulk the toilet base, leave several inches open at the back, facing the wall, so a leak can escape to alert you.

Thanks Jeff.
In order to offset my skill level in any project. I've learned to leave an avenue of escape. Since I'm on a crawlspace, I was thinking about drilling 4 holes in the subfloor around the flange in case of a leak. If no leaks appeared, fill in with great stuff or ply. My mom had a toilet installed, no immediate leak and the plumber caulked all the way around. About a year later, tile grout lines started cracking and a mold appeared.

 

[Jeff Handy]

I would never drill the subfloor to add drain holes.
Better to have the leak run out from under the toilet.

 

[Jeff Knecht]

I would never drill the subfloor to add drain holes.
Better to have the leak run out from under the toilet.

Okay, I'll defer to the wily veteran.

 

[fixitron]

I have replaced/reset many toilets. If a toilet leaks at the base, it is usually a small amount that slowly gets absorbed by the subfloor. If the toilet is only flushed a few times a day, the water may evaporate enough to not seep out from under the base. I have had to patch several subfloors due to rot, before I could re-install a toilet.
In my experience and opinion, there are two main reasons why a toilet leaks at the base. The #1 reason is that the toilet is loose on the floor, which tends to squish out the wax seal. I am in the habit of checking toilets for looseness and I estimate that more than 2/3 of all that I encounter are loose. I think that people are afraid of cracking the base.
The #2 reason is from what is put in for a seal. Ideally, the toilet flange sits on top of the finished floor, where the horn of the toilet extends into the flange at least a fraction of an inch. That only needs a bare, regular wax ring to seal. If a wax ring with a horn is used. the horn takes up some of that space, leaving less room for wax. I have encountered a number of toilets that leaked in that situation because there was no wax left to seal. Not that there is very little room under the base of a toilet. In the case where the toilet flange is below the finished floor surface, a wax ring with a horn may work, but if the difference is too much more wax might not work. In that case, more rings should be added to the flange and sealed with silicone first (allowing the silicone to cure, undisturbed, for at least 24 hours).
I have used synthetic wax rings before where they helped to solve an unusual problem, but I prefer the beeswax that will never deteriorate.

 

[anniebnutz61]

any clues or hints on how a 60 yo woman can put a new toilet in herself? i bought a toilet bowl removal tool to assist me. basically a tension rod wth grippers to go under the lip. the way the one picture looked, it appeared as though he was carrying a pik-a-nik basket to boo-boo. i was also going to try my car jack and see if that helps. is there a way to put bowl on 1st then the bolts.????

 

[Jeff Handy]

The lifting tool and car jack sound totally ridiculous.
You will crack your toilet, or just waste your time.
The best tool is a skilled human, with patience and a strong back, and good grip strength.
Putting the bowl on first is a good idea, if you lack the strength to control the whole heavy toilet.
However, lowering a toilet properly is not easy.
Even pros sometimes have to do it more than once, if they come down unevenly or if the wax ring moves out of place.
After installing, four or five flushes will tell you if you did it right, or you will see water leaking from under the base, or worse yet a flood from the ceiling down below.
If you are a novice, some of the waxless ring devices are much more forgiving.
Maybe folks on here can list their faves of rubber or synthetic no-wax rings that they have used successfully?

 

[Jeff Handy]

Locking the new flange bolts onto the floor flange, with a stainless or brass washer and nut, is a huge help to getting the toilet on, straight down and lined up right.

 

[Riickk]

I tried to re-seat one toilet in my house, unsuccessfully, three ( 3 ) times. Finally, I bought a Fluidmaster rubbe/vinyl seal that worked first time, and has held up for over 15 years.

Fluidmaster Better Than Wax Universal Wax-Free Toilet Seal-7530P24 - The Home Depot

/30

 

[Jeff Handy]

Afraid to click that link, I might end up on a government list somewhere.
Black vans will be pulling up to haul me out.

 

[frodo]

The secret lies in the closet bolt my young apprentice.
Buy the brand that has 4 nuts and 4 washers. it will make life easier

place the bolt in the slot where it goes
install a washer and nut on each bolt
tighten, making sure your bolts are where you want them
drop the wax ring onto the flange inbetween the bolts

pick up the bowl, straddle the closet flange
lower the bowl onto the flange, while eyeballing the bolt and guiding it through the hole in the terlet
press down on the bowl. I put my chest on the bowl and press down as i am installing the nuts on te studs

tools needed
7/16 and 1/2'' hollow core /shaft nut drivers
plyers, screwdriver
should take you about 15 minutes, any longer and you are a slacker

 

[guest]

I usually double wax ring mine. Get one wax ring without the plastic flange and then put it on top of the wax ring they are very forgiving i have found and help with floors that are no level ( as in all slabs)

 

[anniebnutz61]

The lifting tool and car jack sound totally ridiculous.
You will crack your toilet, or just waste your time.
The best tool is a skilled human, with patience and a strong back, and good grip strength.
Putting the bowl on first is a good idea, if you lack the strength to control the whole heavy toilet.
However, lowering a toilet properly is not easy.
Even pros sometimes have to do it more than once, if they come down unevenly or if the wax ring moves out of place.
After installing, four or five flushes will tell you if you did it right, or you will see water leaking from under the base, or worse yet a flood from the ceiling down below.
If you are a novice, some of the waxless ring devices are much more forgiving.
Maybe folks on here can list their faves of rubber or synthetic no-wax rings that they have used successfully?

Thank you so much for your help. I found I have more strength than I thought. I was doing just fine until I dropped my racket down the drain (forgot to block the drain hole 1st) then a day later I go and put bowl on. I was so proud. That high was short lived cuz I remember the tool. My question is would it be better to remove bowl and start over or cut into the pvc drain pipe to retrieve the tool??????

 

[Twowaxhack]

The lifting tool and car jack sound totally ridiculous.
You will crack your toilet, or just waste your time.
The best tool is a skilled human, with patience and a strong back, and good grip strength.
Putting the bowl on first is a good idea, if you lack the strength to control the whole heavy toilet.
However, lowering a toilet properly is not easy.
Even pros sometimes have to do it more than once, if they come down unevenly or if the wax ring moves out of place.
After installing, four or five flushes will tell you if you did it right, or you will see water leaking from under the base, or worse yet a flood from the ceiling down below.
If you are a novice, some of the waxless ring devices are much more forgiving.
Maybe folks on here can list their faves of rubber or synthetic no-wax rings that they have used successfully?

There are toilet dollys that will lift and lower a toilet for you. They’ve been around for years.

 

[Jeff Handy]

She was talking about some tension rod kind of bowl lifting device, or using a car jack.
Not using a proper toilet dolly.

 

[Jeff Handy]

Thank you so much for your help. I found I have more strength than I thought. I was doing just fine until I dropped my racket down the drain (forgot to block the drain hole 1st) then a day later I go and put bowl on. I was so proud. That high was short lived cuz I remember the tool. My question is would it be better to remove bowl and start over or cut into the pvc drain pipe to retrieve the tool??????

Hire a pro, before you make things worse.