Rust from well casing, galvanized pipe, or good ole’ iron?

[Jwalsh]

Hi everyone! i attached a few photos of the excessive amount of sediment in my well water. I’m getting mixed responses/opinions on what it is so I’m hoping to get some opinions/advice.

located in NJ, first two pictures are from washing machine snd were discovered 8 months after moving into new house. The house had been vacant for a few years prior but did pass the state required well water test prior to closing. Expansion tank replaced last year and a single whole house filter was installed. Remaining pictures are from recent emptying of filter.
Water lines throughout house are copper however there is a galvanized pipe that feeds the expansion tank. I’m not sure if this extends passed the foundation or not. Well casing is pvc (as far as I can see). House was built in 1987.
Any input or advice would be GREATLY appreciated as I’m not quite sure where the heck to go from here. TIA

 

[Valveman]

Does look more like flakes of rust than sediment. The first thing to try is just pump the well hard. Open a main line, ball valve, or big hydrant before the filter and let it run wide open for a good long time. Sometimes stopping the pump for a few minutes then restarting will help bring up the big chunks. As long as you do not pump the well dry it is good to let it run for hours or even days.

If pumping it out doesn't help there are chemicals than can dissolve rust and then it can be pumped out better.

 

[Jwalsh]

Thank you for your response! This was actually done during our septic inspection, I believe we let it run for 24+ hours. I should have added that it has now been 3 years since I first noticed the flakes in the washing machine filters. Not sure if that is relevant.
Do you have any experience with the chemicals? I’ll give anything a shot however I am very eager to determine where the rust is coming from.
Thanks again!
- Julie

 

[Valveman]

Cotey Chemicals makes all kinds of stuff to clean wells. However, it will turn stuff loose in the well. So, the pump will need to be pulled and the well bailed or blown clean after adding chemicals and agitating.

 

[PerplexedPlumber]

You may have steel well casing that goes into the water. Also, a common way to "shock" wells to treat for bacteria is to use bleach. Chlorine initiates and accelerates oxidation (rust) for steel. Your pump could also have been affected, and anything made of iron would continue to flake off afterward. There isn't much cure for steel casing. I think there may be liners, but don't know how well those work, and the internal diameter of your casing would determine whether that was an option. If you use any chemicals to treat the well, be sure to flush it afterward extensively.

Also, if your well is getting low, or your pump is too near the bottom, when the pump kicks on, it may agitate debris in the well.

Do your neighbors have similar issues? The geology of your area may be another issue. Your local inspector may have some insights.

Adding a coarse particle filter was a good step; that will reduce wear on valves in the house.

 

[Jwalsh]

You may have steel well casing that goes into the water. Also, a common way to "shock" wells to treat for bacteria is to use bleach. Chlorine initiates and accelerates oxidation (rust) for steel. Your pump could also have been affected, and anything made of iron would continue to flake off afterward. There isn't much cure for steel casing. I think there may be liners, but don't know how well those work, and the internal diameter of your casing would determine whether that was an option. If you use any chemicals to treat the well, be sure to flush it afterward extensively.

Also, if your well is getting low, or your pump is too near the bottom, when the pump kicks on, it may agitate debris in the well.

Do your neighbors have similar issues? The geology of your area may be another issue. Your local inspector may have some insights.

Adding a coarse particle filter was a good step; that will reduce wear on valves in the house.

Thank you so much for your detailed response!! The particle filter has definitely helped to, at minimum, give more exposure to the issue, however every single faucet and shower cartridge still continues to either clog up or not seal. It seems the single filter holds the flakes then constantly swashes them around braking them down into tiny particles just the right size to clog up any mesh aerator in its path! LOL I won’t even mention the shower cartridges! LOL

Anyway! You are obviously extremely knowledgeable in this category so if this were you in the same situation, what would your next steps be? Would you bother determining the source of the rust before moving forward? Or just not think twice and go straight for the chemicals?
Note that the neighbors do have hard water but none have noticed any sediment nor have they had to clean out a faucet in the past several years.
I spoke to a local well company months ago and they agreed that it seemed abnormal for the area. They suggested there may be a steel casing towards the bottom of the well just as you mentioned.

Check out our shower cartridge after only 1 year of use from brand new! So much fun…

Thank you again!!
- Julie

 

[RS]

I always install a whole house filter ahead of the softener, with a 5 micron cartridge in it, I think that would solve your problem, but it might plug rather quickly. They make bigger filters for problem water, but I have never needed one. The filters we use are about 10 inches long and last about 4 months before we notice reduced flow. Has there been any fracking done in your area, or any earthquakes?

 

[Jwalsh]

I always install a whole house filter ahead of the softener, with a 5 micron cartridge in it, I think that would solve your problem, but it might plug rather quickly. They make bigger filters for problem water, but I have never needed one. The filters we use are about 10 inches long and last about 4 months before we notice reduced flow. Has there been any fracking done in your area, or any earthquakes?

Nope, no fracking or earthquakes however the house was vacant for several years prior. It actually wasn’t winterized at first and a pipe burst in the house flooding the basement. After that, they winterized it and it sat for another 2 years before we purchased it. My assumption in all of this was that water sitting in the galvanized pipe for an extended period of time without movement caused the pipe to corrode and once water began flowing it started breaking down the corrosion sending rust flakes through the line. I guess that’s my big question! Is that what’s happening? And if so does it need to be addressed or would say a 3 stage filtration system and water softener be more than enough?

 

[PerplexedPlumber]

I think your lines contain a lot of this particulate and that any valve, when opened, will be exposed to this debris, which will decrease the lifespan of the valves. Especially with the house sitting for so long, the lines need to be well-flushed. You could try opening all valves on a given trunk line and letting those purge, but depending on how your plumbing is organized, it would result in a small to large pressure drop. You may need to run it like this for a while, then close all but one valve at a time to increase the pressure through that line. Open and close the valves at each fixture before turning those off to disturb any debris that collects at a collection point in the lines, such as a joint with a less than perfect connection. Any screens (aerators) would need to be removed first. The hot water tank should be drained and filled several times with the power off before you do this. All lines need to be flushed, including any outdoor services.

As RS said, the coarse filter may plug quickly. If this happens, you will need to contact a local well company or pump service company to see what alternatives there may be. If you have a hydrant near the well, it would be good to open it and let the well flush for a long period of time, if the pump is up to that task. That would reduce what may have built up, but there may be a chronic issue that also needs to be addressed.

 

[RS]

Like PerplexedPlumber said, I would try to flush out the lines as best you can, before your faucets become damaged any more. Maybe use some compressed air too, it might clean them out better than just water, and would have more velocity. I have never use 3-stage filtration, haven't needed it, but you might. As for a softener, you should have the water tested to see if you need one. Softeners are primarily to remove calcium, but will remove some iron too, we have 2 of them that do a good job.

 

[Jwalsh]

Like PerplexedPlumber said, I would try to flush out the lines as best you can, before your faucets become damaged any more. Maybe use some compressed air too, it might clean them out better than just water, and would have more velocity. I have never use 3-stage filtration, haven't needed it, but you might. As for a softener, you should have the water tested to see if you need one. Softeners are primarily to remove calcium, but will remove some iron too, we have 2 of them that do a good job.

thank you again for the info! Makes sense to use compressed air- is it possible to do that on the pipe running from the well into the house?

 

[RS]

It wouldn't be easy on ours, but not impossible! We have 2 wells with pitless adapters down about 7 feet, I would have to pull the pump and then put 2 ell's in the pitless to put the air in. I think if you blow out the lines in the house and then install a filter it should be OK.

 

[Jwalsh]

I think your lines contain a lot of this particulate and that any valve, when opened, will be exposed to this debris, which will decrease the lifespan of the valves. Especially with the house sitting for so long, the lines need to be well-flushed. You could try opening all valves on a given trunk line and letting those purge, but depending on how your plumbing is organized, it would result in a small to large pressure drop. You may need to run it like this for a while, then close all but one valve at a time to increase the pressure through that line. Open and close the valves at each fixture before turning those off to disturb any debris that collects at a collection point in the lines, such as a joint with a less than perfect connection. Any screens (aerators) would need to be removed first. The hot water tank should be drained and filled several times with the power off before you do this. All lines need to be flushed, including any outdoor services.

As RS said, the coarse filter may plug quickly. If this happens, you will need to contact a local well company or pump service company to see what alternatives there may be. If you have a hydrant near the well, it would be good to open it and let the well flush for a long period of time, if the pump is up to that task. That would reduce what may have built up, but there may be a chronic issue that also needs to be addressed.

Thank you! Yes the chronic issue is exactly what I’m after. I’m really not a fan of putting money into things to “cover up” the underlying issue. Obviously there’s many factors like severity, risk and associated costs but I at minimum like to know the true cause so I am able to weigh out my options.
While we’ve cleared out the lines throughout the house
Prior to purchasing the house we ran the water from the main line coming into the basement for 24 hours+ during our septic inspection (ran a hose from the main to the septic tank). We also cleared the lines throughout the house several times before during and after the whole house filter was installed just as you suggested and the buildup at individual faucets has cut down significantly.. I’d say about 20% of what it was. So I feel I’ve done as much as I can on that side of the water system for now (will do more thorough clearing/cleaning after cause is resolved). And now I’m hoping to take it a step further and determine A) if the flakes are normal (which I believe we’ve determined are not) and B) where the flakes are coming from exactly, what’s causing it, and options on how to fix the issue.

 

[Twowaxhack]

I’d replace it all if that would solve the problem. A complete new system.