Ridgig 2 straight or spiral pipe reamer?

[Miksa_hobbyist]

I apologize I was trying to search and couldn’t find what I was looking for and I’ve been searching online all day. I need to plumb airlines in my garage and basement, recently purchased a Rigid threader, pipe cutter now I’m in need of a reamer. I came across two options at very, very good prices for what are basically brand new tools. Is there one reamer that may be better than the other in certain situations? Between the straight and spiral pipe reamers, I will be using them manually and not in a powered Ridgid tool. I will be cutting and threading 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 black steel pipe. Can get the straight reamer slightly cheaper but not much, both sub $100 why I’m rushing to get the info. I was curious if the straight pipe at the 1/8 starting point may clean burrs better than the spiral starting in the 1/4 pipe for my 1/4 pipe? Normally I would just use a file but the deal I found I just can’t say no. Thank you!

 

[Twowaxhack]

I’d probably use copper. I’ve never installed 1/4” steel pipe, sorry I can’t help you with that.

 

[Miksa_hobbyist]

Unfortunately I can’t, spent a lot of money on a new compressor, steel pipe is free, steel pipe it is lol. Don’t have a local hardware or big box store to have them cut/thread pipes for me. If I did, the cost in gas would far outweigh the cost in the cutter,threader, and this future reamer. I’m really good at finding very good deals for barely used tools. Already ran the costs and savings for me, this way will save a lot more when complete. Plus I simply like tk tinker, I will have more fun with steel than copper I’m weird like that. Some may find it annoying and too much work, I welcome more work and effort, it’s fun.

 

[Twowaxhack]

I’d probably go with the spiral if reaming by hand.

 

[Miksa_hobbyist]

Gotcha, just needed some reassurance thank you. I figured by design it would probably be faster via the spiral unless I had it setup on a powered tool. Unless I found one for $100 I would never consider one yikes pricey. But as a professional I’m sure it’s a wise investment.

 

[Twowaxhack]

I like copper because it doesn’t rust and it’s easy to work with as there are several different ways to connect it.

Flare
Compression
Solder
Brazing
Push fit
Press fittings

And I think you can tig weld it.

And you can bend it with tubing benders to custom angles and use less fittings.

Have fun with your project.

 

[Miksa_hobbyist]

Honestly if money for the project wasn’t so tight I would’ve gone with the copper, but I’m also a hardcore bargain hunter haha. Just couldn’t say no to the black pipe. I’m taking great precaution for water in the lines, I made a cooler for the compressor and have a desiccant dryer, then out of the compressor I have a tsunami seperator into a filter, regulator, and coalescing filter. When I plumb the lines I’m thinking of using 45 degree elbows to push moisture down instead of accross towards the manifolds with a drain valve, and again another water seperator/filter, regulator. I can get a lot of humidity and I absolutely can’t have contaminants in my paint, it can create costly mistakes so I rather overkill than not do enough. I’ve had the tsunami’s for some time now, overkill again but was such a good investment. Also got them used as well for a great price, just had to replace the elements and clean them up. I appreciate your input thank you so much! I’m definitely going to have fun with this project, there’s nothing I love more than learning something new, tearing things apart and rebuilding them. Needed to replace drywall too so I just completely gutted the room and starting fresh while I can plumb in the walls. After rethinking it I may keep the compressor in the attic and then have the pipe come out of the wall to the filters and manifold, etc. Can cut out a nice faceplate and make it looks really nice.

 

[havasu]

I had a friend who plumbed his garage with air lines using 3/4" PVC pipe, so anything is possible. This sounds like a fun project but with using iron pipe with high pressures, you will be chasing leaks for the first few days. I'd also be concerned with water in the iron pipe, so I would incorporate some drip legs with ball type valves at your low points. Good luck and take a pic of the finished job for us.

 

[Twowaxhack]

Pvc shouldn’t be used for air pipe most of the time. It can shatter and explode.

 

[havasu]

Exactly, but this friend installed it years ago, and still working great.

i myself ran copper lines with quick releases fittings in all corners of the garage..

 

[Twowaxhack]

Exactly, but this friend installed it years ago, and still working great.

i myself ran copper lines with quick releases fittings in all corners of the garage..

It’ll work fine until something impacts it, then it’ll shatter like glass. Like something falls on it.

Also if he used threaded fittings they can just spontaneously break. It’s the weak point in any pvc system, the threads. It derates your pressure rating substantially

 

[MicEd69]

I personally like the spiral reamers, but 1/4" pipe is pretty small for the one I have. I usually don't use anything less than 1/2" pipe for my projects. Perhaps you would be interested in this set of hand reamers, at least for the 1/4" pipe. Amazon.com: Performance Tool W2967 Tapered Reamer Set with T-Handle and Carbon Steel Contstruction to Align Holes or Remove Burrs from Pipe, Tubes, and More (2-Piece) : Industrial & Scientific

And if you don't already have one, invest in a filter/water trap at your compressor. Something like this. HEAVY DUTY INDUSTRIAL RATED HIGH FLOW PARTICULATE FILTER, IN-LINE WATER TRAP FOR COMPRESSED AIR LINE SYSTEMS, 5 MICRON WITH METAL BOWL (1/2" NPT, 5oz) - - Amazon.com

 

[TomFOhio]

Miksa, not sure how much gas line you have ever ran but don't use teflon tape. You can buy pipe dope with
cream teflon in it. The only time I ever seen 1/4" gas line ran was in a dentist lab. Not sure what the devise
was used for.