replacing valves

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Andrei

Andrei

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Oct 13, 2019
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Location
Las Vegas, NV
Hello, thank you for looking at this post, hopefully you can share some of your knowledge with me...

-----------------------------------------------

Issue:
None-functioning Taco 006 Circulator, causing low to no heat in the house.

-----------------------------------------------

SPECS:

Unit:
980 sq. ft. Single story condo - 1998 build date

Water Heater:
AO Smith 40 gal. gas

Water Circulator:
Taco 006-B4-3

Furnace:
First Company 1.5 ton Fan Coil in ceiling Unit

------------------------------------------------

I was attempting to replace the Circulator Pump, only to discover that the valves are extremely corroded and not working. I want to replace all valves + pump. Starting with the main shut-off valve.

My Plan:
- Shut off the water to the building for an hour or so while I replace the main shut-off valve.
- Drain water from faucets to release pressure before cutting.
- After replacing main shut-off valve, I will lock the valve, return the water to the building and continue to take my time to re-construct/replicate the rest of the build.

I have included several photos to better help explain my situation.

I have several questions which I hope someone can answer:

1.) Hot water pipe from the water heater has a 'defect' or is it a 'restriction'?

2.) Should I turn off the water heater when replacing the valves?

3.) Should I drain the water heater? Or no need as I will be working above the water heater.

4.) Should I purchase the same Taco Circulator Pump, or use something else? (recommendations)

Any other tips or recommendations are appreciated. (parts, tools, safety etc..)


5

5

What

What

7

7

6

6

4

4

2

2

1

1

 
have several questions which I hope someone can answer:

1.) Hot water pipe from the water heater has a 'defect' or is it a 'restriction'?
I see calcium build up on your valves. most likely your pipes are restricted

2.) Should I turn off the water heater when replacing the valves?
YES
3.) Should I drain the water heater? Or no need as I will be working above the water heater.
You need to not only drain that heater, you need to flush it. You need to get as much of that calcium out as you can
4.) Should I purchase the same Taco Circulator Pump, or use something else? (recommendations)
A taco is a good pump, I would replace it with the same pump BUT a different pipe connection
go with a flange instead of soldered into place. makes it easier to work on in the future
Any other tips or recommendations are appreciated. (parts, tools, safety etc..)
The ''crud'' you see on your valves is calcium, it is there because those valves are leaking ever so slightly.
You will not know the extent of the ''crud'' problem intill you cut a pipe and look on the inside

Contact TACO.com
tell them the model number of your pump 006-B4-3
You my only need to replace parts and not the whole shebang


 
So I must assume this arrangement using a tank type water heater is acceptable in your state. Is it also acceptable to use it for both heating and domestic water use without separation by heat exchangers?

Out of curiosity, what do you set your water heater temperature to?

Do you have a means of venting out any air?

Are you positive you have a "None-functioning" pump?

How long have you had this arrangement? In other words was it working fine for you at one time?

If one of those CW lines represents the HW return, where's the CW supply to the tank? Also, there should be a check valve on the CW supply, in which case would require an expansion tank.

Actually the whole thing looks a bit weird to me. I guess I should go look to see what is typically done when a domestic water heater is used for heat.
 
Last edited:
Hey, thank you for your reply, I appreciate the recommendation to flush the tank! That is something that I am sure must be done by the looks of things..
 
Diehard said:
So I must assume this arrangement using a tank type water heater is acceptable in your state. Is it also acceptable to use it for both heating and domestic water use without separation by heat exchangers?

Out of curiosity, what do you set your water heater temperature to?
- The temperature is set to 'hot' on my gas WH (I am relatively new to the plumbing scene and learning) There is no actual temperature set like on my electric WH..

Do you have a means of venting out any air?
- This unit is located in a utility closet, and there are two vents on the wall near ceiling and floor.. also a venting pipe is connected to the WH..

Are you positive you have a "None-functioning" pump?
- No I am not positive, as I do not know how to check it.. It is not making any noise/vibration and furnace is not heating well.. I can not open/remove the pump it as it is soldered on and the shut off water valves are corroded and not closing the water current..

How long have you had this arrangement? In other words was it working fine for you at one time?
- We bought this condo in 2017 and for what I can tell, this issue has existed.

If one of those CW lines represents the HW return, where's the CW supply to the tank? Also, there should be a check valve on the CW supply, in which case would require an expansion tank.
- The CW supply to the tank is on the top, I have included the photo.. It comes from the wall, splits, travels to the WH and the ceiling..
- There is no check valve, this whole set up looks very poorly done. (one of the reasons I want to replace it all, after seeing what the pros do)
- There is no check valve on CW supply, thank you for the recommendation on this.. also how important is expansion tank? If I install a check valve, would I need the expansion tank?

Actually the whole thing looks a bit weird to me. I guess I should go look to see what is typically done when a domestic water heater is used for heat.
Click to expand...

IMG_8108

IMG_8108

IMG_8097

IMG_8097

 
frodo said:
have several questions which I hope someone can answer:

1.) Hot water pipe from the water heater has a 'defect' or is it a 'restriction'?
I see calcium build up on your valves. most likely your pipes are restricted

2.) Should I turn off the water heater when replacing the valves?
YES
3.) Should I drain the water heater? Or no need as I will be working above the water heater.
You need to not only drain that heater, you need to flush it. You need to get as much of that calcium out as you can
4.) Should I purchase the same Taco Circulator Pump, or use something else? (recommendations)
A taco is a good pump, I would replace it with the same pump BUT a different pipe connection
go with a flange instead of soldered into place. makes it easier to work on in the future
Any other tips or recommendations are appreciated. (parts, tools, safety etc..)
The ''crud'' you see on your valves is calcium, it is there because those valves are leaking ever so slightly.
You will not know the extent of the ''crud'' problem intill you cut a pipe and look on the inside

Contact TACO.com
tell them the model number of your pump 006-B4-3
You my only need to replace parts and not the whole shebang
Click to expand...
Also I do not mean to intrude, you have provided more than plenty of your time to this post.. but my 1st question is related to this image.. the 90 elbow seems to be 'bent/crimped'.. wondering if this was done to restrict water, or just a defected elbow?
What

What

 
Perhaps this is the correct image, the circulation of water.. (image attached...)

Is it also acceptable to use it for both heating and domestic water use without separation by heat exchangers? I am unaware what are heat exchangers, forgive me, learning more on this subject as I write this..

..Also, if this is the correct circulation of water, than how is the house getting cold water?? Perhaps there is another line..

Perhaps the water heater is there just to heat up the water, and circulate hot water to the furnace and back..

That means there is an independent cold water pipe which I have no control over inside the condominium.. Eureka?!

So that would mean that this is a closed loop system that circulates water to the furnace and back into the WH, + hot water to the house. CW would have it's own separate pipe that I have no control over, besides the outdoor valve that shuts off all water to the building..

Ok

Ok

 
Last edited:
I suggest you get a professional plumber(or two) to look at what you have in place there and advise what your options are.
It appears to me that you have a lot more problems than just that it's not providing adequate heat.
 
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