replacing frozen CPVC ball valve, need HELP!

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chrisoffice

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Have a C-PVC ball valve on the water main. Man, I hate this plastic pipes, the joints can NOT be undone!

Because this C-PVC ball valve is almost impossible to turn, I want to replace it. Please look at the picture, I need some advice.

If I cut out this ball valve, there will be less than half inch lip left to the T-joint. If I replace this T-joint as well, then there won't be enough lip left to the wall.

What should I do?
 
chrisoffice said:
View attachment 24723
Have a C-PVC ball valve on the water main. Man, I hate this plastic pipes, the joints can NOT be undone!

Because this C-PVC ball valve is almost impossible to turn, I want to replace it. Please look at the picture, I need some advice.

If I cut out this ball valve, there will be less than half inch lip left to the T-joint. If I replace this T-joint as well, then there won't be enough lip left to the wall.

What should I do?
Click to expand...
 
Geofd said:
Can you access the other side of the wall marked house???????
Click to expand...

NO!!!

Actually the other side is in between the wall. It is a condo, the valve in the picture is located in the laundry room at the middle of the condo, I marked it as "house" because the city water goes from that pipe to all the faucet in the condo, I don't know how the pipe runs around behind the wall.
 
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chrisoffice said:
NO!!!

Actually the other side is in between the wall. It is a condo, the valve in the picture is located in the laundry room at the middle of the condo, I marked it as "house" because the city water goes from that pipe to all the faucet in the condo, I don't know how the pipe runs around behind the wall.
Click to expand...
Do you have a water meter for your unit??????
Are there Any access panels in the condo????????
Is there a water meter room we’re all units are fed
There are (ram bits) they are used to drill out the pipe from the fitting not sure if the make them that size I have 1 1/2 and 2 inch they work great
 
Geofd said:
Do you have a water meter for your unit??????
Are there Any access panels in the condo????????
Is there a water meter room we’re all units are fed
There are (ram bits) they are used to drill out the pipe from the fitting not sure if the make them that size I have 1 1/2 and 2 inch they work great
Click to expand...

I don't have a water meter in my unit, no access panel either. If you are talking about whether I can turn the water off, yes, I can turn the water off for the entire building for a little while to replace the valve.

But what is the best way to replace the valve giving that after cutting out the valve, the lips are too short. I thought about the rambit as well, I think they do make 1/2 inch rambit. So re-using that T joint is the best way to go?

BTW, I am thinking about replacing the C-PVC ball valve with a brass ball valve, with push joints on both end. Do you guys think that the push joint is going to be fine for the water main? When the ball valve is closed, the entire city water pressure is going to be on the push joint, I am a little worried about this.
 
There is what’s call a 3 piece ball valve on each end there is a union connection and in the middle is a ball valve
There are rubber o rings making the water seal we use them at work,they work fine, if the ball valve goes bad, you just loosen the unions and slide in a new valve body I forget who makes them but I’m sure if you do a search you will find them . I’m not sure what push joints are.....shark bites????? I would not trust them
 
This looks too complicated and important for you to try by yourself.

You should call a plumber to fix it, BEFORE you cut anything or fool with anything.

Because the valve has no extra pipe around it on either side, and the Tee under it has no extra pipe, and also there is no room to be able to push on a Sharkbite or similar fitting, because everything is trapped without any play or pipe movement possible.

And if you start working on it and find you are unable to close everything up, now you will have to call a plumber in an emergency, with all water off to the whole building.
 
Jeff Handy said:
This looks too complicated and important for you to try by yourself.

You should call a plumber to fix it, BEFORE you cut anything or fool with anything.

Because the valve has no extra pipe around it on either side, and the Tee under it has no extra pipe, and also there is no room to be able to push on a Sharkbite or similar fitting, because everything is trapped without any play or pipe movement possible.

And if you start working on it and find you are unable to close everything up, now you will have to call a plumber in an emergency, with all water off to the whole building.
Click to expand...

You are right! I agree!

I don't know why the original plumber installed it this way, leave no space for repair. And the C-PVC ball valve is notorious for frozen up.

But I want to get an opinion on this here, before talking to a plumber.
 
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Ok, so we know the valve is hard to turn.

Meanwhile, what exactly is the function of this valve?

What does it control, and why?

Water heater?

Just for you, or for other units also?

Your condo association might be responsible for the maintenance of it, especially if it affects other units.
 
Jeff Handy said:
Ok, so we know the valve is hard to turn.

Meanwhile, what exactly is the function of this valve?

What does it control, and why?

Water heater?

Just for you, or for other units also?

Your condo association might be responsible for the maintenance of it, especially if it affects other units.
Click to expand...


It controls every drip of city water coming into my condo, and just for my condo.

The first picture should be self-explanatory, the water main go through this valve, and then the T splits it into two branches, one goes to the water heater (in my condo), the other goes to all the water faucets in my condo.
 
I personally would have no idea how to cut out and replace that valve, I can’t picture how to manipulate the pipes, even if I could perfectly chip off the old valve with a chisel after splitting its sockets.

Maybe others here will have a brainstorm idea.

But I think a pro plumber will be required, and it will likely also involve cutting the pipes in the unit behind that wall, and installing several union couplings.

A nice stainless ball valve would be great, if possible.

Maybe someone could figure out a clever way to get some silicone plumber’s grease onto the
existing plastic ball?
 
Jeff Handy said:
I personally would have no idea how to cut out and replace that valve, I can’t picture how to manipulate the pipes, even if I could perfectly chip off the old valve with a chisel after splitting its sockets.

Maybe others here will have a brainstorm idea.

But I think a pro plumber will be required, and it will likely also involve cutting the pipes in the unit behind that wall, and installing several union couplings.

A nice stainless ball valve would be great, if possible.

Maybe someone could figure out a clever way to get some silicone plumber’s grease onto the
existing plastic ball?
Click to expand...

Well, if one can use the rambit to perfectly drill out the old CPVC pipe inside the T joint, and the T joint can be re-used, then everything will be easy. Replace the frozen valve with a double union CPVC ball valve with socket on both ends, for example. Use a short segment of new CPVC pipe to connect the new ball valve to the T joint.
 
You are not grasping how hard this job will be to do properly, and in a timely manner.

Any problems, and the whole building has no water, and it’s your fault.

Hire a pro.

I hope all goes well.

I am out.
 
chrisoffice said:
You are right! I agree!

I don't know why the original plumber installed it this way, leave no space for repair. And the C-PVC ball valve is notorious for frozen up.

But I want to get an opinion on this here, before talking to a plumber.
Click to expand...
Check out georg Fischer 3 piece ball valve it might work in that space even if you have a plumber do it
 
Geofd said:
Check out georg Fischer 3 piece ball valve it might work in that space even if you have a plumber do it
Click to expand...

This should work as well,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C9D32KX
The critical step is to re-use that T-joint, either by drill out the old pipe, or by apply some heat and "peel" out the old pipe.

If the T-joint can't be re-used, then a hole will need to be cut out from the wall, and try to use some couplings to extend the lip.

That's my thought so far.
81dmpErGK8L._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 
A lot of plumbers, electricians, etc, do their work the easiest way because they have to hustle and keep on schedule, and under budget.

But in the back of their minds, they are probably thinking, “I am screwing the next guy who has to work on this”.

Not all, but many.
 
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