Repairing an ABS pipe in a confined area, surrounded by other pipes/vents

Discussion in 'General Plumbing Help' started by Inept, Jun 26, 2019.

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  1. Jun 26, 2019 #1

    Inept

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    There's an ABS pipe in my basement that is basically a dead leg with a cap on it. During heavy rains, the cap will drip a little bit. Here is a picture of the current situation, including my ugly drip catcher:

    pipe_drip.JPG

    I would like to cut the pipe and add a new plug fitting, but it is basically surrounded by other pipes and vents, including a copper pipe that runs vertically behind it and is pressed up against it (can't be seen in this picture). It's practically in the ceiling, so it's extremely difficult to work up there. I've searched for specialty tools, even tried making one myself, but so far no success.

    I've seen the rope cutting technique done on Youtube, and I was wondering if there is a power tool that uses this technique? An example of what I'm talking about:



    Or perhaps some sort of handheld hot-wire cutting tool? (Since the rope technique cuts with the heat from friction, just heating a wire would skip the middle man...)

    Thank you for reading and for any suggestions!
     
  2. Jun 26, 2019 #2

    PlumbGate

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    If it was me I would slather ABS glue in all the joints. Good chance it would seal up for good.
     
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  3. Jun 26, 2019 #3

    breplum

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    It may just need a good pipe dope on the threads, but look out! you are going to have a wet mess on your hands when you open up that dead leg.
    A few of us own the old articulated recipricating saws from Porter Cable, but barring that, there are internal cutoff saws on a shaft that are available.
    Alternative: Maybe go on the roof and put an AAV (air admittance valve) on the top.
     
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  4. Jun 26, 2019 #4

    Mikey

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    Weller makes a plastic cutting tip for their solder guns that might work with a little modification. OK, a big modification:
    upload_2019-6-26_12-36-7.png
    I think you could braze extension leads onto one of these to allow getting the cutting tip portion up to the pipe, and with the cutter bent over to 90° or so, you might be able to whack off the end of the pipe.

    Does the other end penetrate the roof? I'm wondering why it drips when it rains. If that's the case, cut the roof-end off (you could use an inside pipe cutter to cut it below the roof) and patch the roof.
     
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  5. Jun 26, 2019 #5

    Geofd

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    drill a small hole in the cap drain the water and replace with the same or a threaded plug if that pipe does nothing and is a vent cap it off at the roof level
     
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  6. Jun 26, 2019 #6

    Inept

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    Thanks for all of your replies. I think I will try sealing it up with glue first (or is dope better?), then I will explore these other ideas.

    You've got me wondering about this now. The other end of the pipe doesn't penetrate the roof, only the main stack does. Maybe it isn't rain water that is accumulating in there... :eek: It's only a few inches away from the main drain line. I just assumed rain water was building up over the years and not evaporating at a fast enough rate, since it only drips when it rains.
     
  7. Jun 27, 2019 #7

    Geofd

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    maybe an abandoned vent.....and your getting condensation....do you have attic access?????
     
  8. Jun 27, 2019 #8

    WyrTwister

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    Yep .

    Although I have used survey string to cut PVC conduit , in a ditch , several times . Worked pretty well / quickly .

    Wyr
    God bless
     
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  9. Jun 28, 2019 #9

    Matt30

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    Another trick I’ve used to seal pipes permanently.

    I’ll take a scrap piece of abs....and run my hacksaw blade down the side of it a shitload of times until I have a pile of shavings.

    Then, I’ll add a little glue to the shavings and mix it all around in my hand (with gloves on of course)...the shavings will begin to melt and make a paste. Then slather it over whatever you’re sealing. Once it hardens up, it’s permanently bonded to the pipe.
     
  10. Jun 28, 2019 #10

    chiraldude

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    I have done this a time or two but most times, you can use a PVC glue that has high solids content. (basically the same thing). The grey or yellow PVC glues are what you need, the clear stuff has very little solids in it. You can also leave the lid off the can for a few hours to evaporate some of the solvent and make it even thicker before applying.
     
  11. Jul 10, 2019 #11

    Hamhound

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    Interesting idea about a high solids glue. I have a very slow leak in my 3" drain pipe at an elbow and I prefer not to cut out the elbow that leaks and patch in a new piece.
    You said PVC glue. Does this grey or yellow PVC cement work for ABS?
     
  12. Jul 10, 2019 #12

    PlumbGate

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    Yep
     
  13. Jul 10, 2019 #13

    Hamhound

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    I ran into something called Rescue Tape, a self fusing silicon tape that claims to see things up to 900+ PSI. I wonder if it would be a good choice for a slow leak not under pressure. Seems like it should but...
     

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