rear discharge toilet install

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The ABS spigot O.D. is a little different than the cast iron. use a mission or Proflex banded coupling Not a no-hub coupling.

:confused: :confused:

Rear discharge toilet that sits on the floor or wall mounted?
I had presumed you where installing a wall mounted toilet which requires a carrier. carrier price too much for you? So you're thinking maybe going back to floor mounted which requires a 4" CL of flange on wall?
Good luck with your project.

yes "Mr_David" the cost of a "carrier" mount WAS too much,considering that this is merely a half bath that is for MY convenience mostly. (it will be located in my workshop with easy access from the family room located on the lower level)
thanks to everyone for all the help!

tnx,
 
question: is a cast iron tee preferable? (Charlotte has lots to choose from) if I DO end up using a CI tee,which couplers should I use? (CI to CI and ABS to CI)

tnx,
 
after I chip away the concrete so I can get the sanitary tee in so it will be at the right height for the toilet,there will be some concrete stuck to the CI pipe right where the coupler will go. should I try to clean off as much concrete as I can or will the coupler work correctly over that residue?

tnx,
 
before I start chipping concrete from around that CI pipe,it'd be nice to know what I might find. in particular,I'd like to know if there'll be enough room to actually use a "no hub coupling". so,here is my question: in general,how far down might that CI pipe go? I mean,does "under slab" drainage have to be below the frost line? the reason I'd like to know this is I'd be curious as to whether that CI pipe with hub is actually a pipe or nothing more than an elbow that turns toward the main drain line under the slab. if it's an elbow,it might mean that there'd be not enough room for a coupling to be used after cutting the fitting to the correct depth. so,anyone care to venture a guess?

tnx,
 
Open the cleanout and stick a tape measure down it. if the hub was the end of a 90 you would see it starting to curve right out of the hub.

The thing with old hub pipe is that they are cast. the castings are not always a perfect circle. Sometimes there is a ridge or a casting seem that makes it difficult to get a good seal.
 
Open the cleanout and stick a tape measure down it. if the hub was the end of a 90 you would see it starting to curve right out of the hub.

The thing with old hub pipe is that they are cast. the castings are not always a perfect circle. Sometimes there is a ridge or a casting seem that makes it difficult to get a good seal.

I just did that tape measure thing and I hit a bend just below the floor (probably a 4" floor) which means that that IS a fitting and it's partially IN the concrete. I'm not going to mess with chipping concrete and wasting my time. I'm going to have to go back to a "wall mount toilet" since that will let me put the san tee further up the stack. it'll cost more but it'll be worth it. Am.Std. 2093.100.020 looks ok. all I need now is a carrier. Zurn?

tnx,
 
raise the floor. raise the toilet a bit

you know "Mr_David," I just might take your advice. by raising the floor somewhat, I might gain enough height so that the "san tee" could be installed in a reasonable position. this would mean I could use a regular "rear discharge" toilet and avoid the considerable expense of installing a "carrier".

tnx,
 
in the original pic that I posted,you see where the piece of CI pipe enters the hub going into the floor? well,the joint of the pipe and the hub is sealed by some sort of "gasket" like thing made of maybe rubber. what is that? a doughnut? if I take it apart can I re-use that or do I need a new one? I was thinking of possibly putting my "san-tee" into the hub and sealing the joint with one of those things.

tnx,
 
I'm back after months of doing other things around here. now I can get back to my "pet project",my downstairs bath!!
first of all,I WILL be going with a regular "rear discharge" toilet from Gerber. I will be installing a "sanitary tee" into the CI hub coming out of the cement floor. what I need to know right now is if it's ok to install an ABS tee into that CI hub with a "donut" and also if I should use some lubricant on the parts to make it easier.? this will get me going for now.(by the way,I'll be getting all my parts from a plumbing supply store and NOT HD or Lowes)

tnx,
 
just thinking here,but maybe I should go with a CI sanitary tee like I originally though since the ABS one will have a slightly bigger OD and hence make it's install more difficult. (that's what I've been reading anyway) any thoughts?

tnx,
 
well "Frodo",yes a CI tee would be easier BUT the CI costs more than DOUBLE what an ABS tee costs!
besides a CI tee being costly,it has another feature which might "tip the scales" in it's favor: from looking at various tee's on-line,it looks like the ABS tee's are all rather short on the spigot end which would keep it from "bottoming" in the hub. the CI tee,is quite a bit longer. all the installation type stuff I've read says that whatever you put into a hub should "bottom". is that right? don't want any leaks!

tnx,
 
well,I went to a plumbing supply place to get a "sanitary tee".they don't even carry any street tees!:mad: and the employee who was "helping" looked st me like I was from "mars" when I told him I was putting in a toilet.:confused:
another place has the sanitary tee that I need in PVC only. I'll go with that PVC tee into the CI hub with a gasket unless somebody here tells me not to.

tnx,
 
I went back and looked at the picture. the hub is abovr the floor

cut the hub off, and use a no hub band...nowhatimean?


3d78ddcc89ef683226ccea312e96ed94.jpg



use a grinder to cut the pipe SQUARE NO LESS than 1 1/4'' exposed pipe above floor

then use a band to hook pipe's together
 
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