PVC Leaks under sink (new install)

[PaulinWI]

Attached is a picture before the sink was installed if it helps.

 

[Jeff Handy]

The inner edge of the fitting at the wall looks beveled, so it seems to be a proper trap adapter.

 

[Jeff Handy]

There is no vent visible in the picture of the plumbing in the open stud wall.

 

[Jeff Handy]

Even with no vent, the sink should drain, just very chuggy and gluggy.

Run a snake down through the pipe in the wall.
All the way as far as the toilet.

Maybe someone stuck a rag in the future sink drain to keep sewer gases contained.

 

[Jeff Handy]

You also might want or need to add an air admittance valve, to help the sink to drain.

 

[frodo]

found your problem

look at his image, that is a 1 1/2 x 1 1/4 reducing sj nut built in washer

that is what fits the adapter, that is what you need to use

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

Man, this is a common issue. Most DWV piping for sinks is 1.5" PVC. Many sinks used to come with matching 1.5" tail pieces and traps. Then--what a surprise--the manufacturers started using 1.25" tail pieces and traps. This requires what Frodo pointed out--it's an extra thick diameter compression washer to allow you to insert a 1.25" trap or pipe into a 1.5" waste pipe.

My experience with these is spotty; the washers come in varying thicknesses and quality and man they have to be REALLY TIGHT in order to work 100%. You can get them just tight, and you may get 99.5%, and that results in a drip--very slow sometimes, but a drip nonetheless.

My own opinion is things work better without these adapter compression washers. Tailpieces and traps in 1.5" to match the 1.5" DWV pipe...or, a different PVC adapter at the wall fitting that converts from 1.5" to 1.25" so you don't have to use the adapter compression washer...

 

[Jeff Handy]

I believe he just bought a new full-sized nut and a softer beveled washer, and it is not leaking anymore.

His trap and trap arm extension are 1 1/2 inch tubular pvc, according to OP.

Sink tailpiece is 1 1/4, there is a 1 1/4 washer on the tailpiece to adapt to the larger trap.

He said his new problem is that now it is not draining.

I mentioned that I don’t see a vent.

I don’t know if he meant not draining at all, or draining very slowly.

 

[Riickk]

In OP Post #8 photo, appears to me I see water in the pipe where the 90 turns.
Then again might be a shadow?

https://i.postimg.cc/5ycjMThT/Post-8.jpg

 

[Jeff Handy]

Looks like some water in there for sure.

 

[frodo]

not having a vent is not going to stop it from draining
not having a vent will make it drain slow but it will drain

if it is not draining it is because it has a blockage

run a bucket cable down the pipe

if you wish any more of my advice. i require the insulation to be removed so i can see where that pipe is going

 

[Jeff Handy]

I had posted that maybe someone stuck a rag down in there, previously.
For sewer gas, after the rough-in.

Or by not draining, he might just mean draining slowly.

I already advised to run a snake through it, all the way to the stack by the nearby toilet.

OP has not responded for awhile, hopefully he will clarify soon.

 

[PaulinWI]

Jeff:

Your post #28 is exactly right in case anybody else needs a quick overview.
Thank you for your input...Yes, there is water in the pipe in post #8? Is this a red flag? Should the water disappear? I will check for a rag or something, but I don't think this will be the case because I think I would have seen that before I started. It would have been pretty crazy for somebody to stick a rag down so far that you would not be able to see it.
To clarify, the sink did drain, but took probably about 6 hours to drain about 1/2 gallon. (and there was a new leak that I put a bucket under, and I'm not sure if the water leaked into the bucket (which already had water in it) or if it eventually drained)

Do you normally need air admittance valves? Without knowing anything about them, it seems like that could solve the problem. I'm just wondering why that would only be required sometimes?

Frodo:
The entire bathroom is now dry walled, painted, and finished except for the sink, so removing the insulation at this point is not an option.

 

[PaulinWI]

I just put a mini drain snake (about 2') into the pipe in the wall. There was no blockage, but there was some water in there. The water should be draining away, right? Also, when I unscrew all the plumbing, a lot of water comes out of the pipes. I wish I had a picture of the wall before the insulation was installed, but I don't. What are my next steps?

Thanks again for any advice.

 

[frodo]

6 hours to drain is not a vent issue it is a plug in the pipe issue

run a bucket cable in the pipe ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,20' ,,,,,,,,,,, 2' is nothing

​

 

[frodo]

get the cable in the pipe then push pull push pull push pull the cable..ROD the pipe

 

[Jeff Handy]

That’s what my girlfriend tells me!
Back seat driver!

 

[PaulinWI]

So, I found anther old picture from the wall before the drywall was installed. It does not show much, but I can tell that I must have added a horizontal pipe to get it to come out where the vanity would be. (This project has been going on about 5 years, so I don't remember doing that) If the pipe I added was not at an angle, would that be the answer to all of my problems? I probably didn't think about that. If that is the case, is there a way for me to measure the levelness now that the pipe is not exposed? If I determine that is the problem, what are my next steps? I know this could have been a big mistake.

Thanks again.

 

[Jeff Handy]

First run a snake in, see if it is blocked or not.

 

[frodo]

So, I found anther old picture from the wall before the drywall was installed. It does not show much, but I can tell that I must have added a horizontal pipe to get it to come out where the vanity would be. (This project has been going on about 5 years, so I don't remember doing that)

If the pipe I added was not at an angle, would that be the answer to all of my problems?
yes, It is called back fall or a belly.
the only way to fix it is to remove the cabinet , sheet rock, and remove the pipe
RE INSTALL correctly
NOT what you wanted to hear.

I probably didn't think about that. If that is the case, is there a way for me to measure the levelness now that the pipe is not exposed? If I determine that is the problem, what are my next steps? I know this could have been a big mistake.

A pipe must have a slope. If not. the hair/soap/toothpaste crap will sit in the pipe and not leave
causing a blockage


Thanks again.