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Pump Not Turning On

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usmaps

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I have a pump that was installed in the basement for the washing machine discharge. The pump make and model can be found at the following link: (ProFlo PF92017 - 3/10 HP Compact Remote Sink/Drain Pump System 1-1/2-Inch).

It is attached to my washing machine and does not turn on in time. It overflows at the area where the washing machine drain is hooked up. After the water overflows for a while, it will kick on and works fine. I'm assuming it is a float issue, but have no clue. Had a technician come look at it through our home warranty, and it was no surprise he said they whole system was broke and needed replaced, even though it's brand new and he didn't actually test it. Obviously the home warranty denied our claim, so here I am trying to figure it out before hiring someone.

I've emailed the ProFlo customer service for support as it should be under warranty through them, but I also didn't purchase the item since it came with the house, so I'm uncertain if they'll help without proof of purchase. I've read some reviews where people have said it came assembled incorrectly and they were able to fix it themselves. I'm a new/first time home owner, so my experience is pretty low, hoping for some advice!120244.jpeg120245.jpeg120247.jpeg120248.jpeg120249.jpeg
 
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havasu

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You will need to access the float, drain down water (manually if necessary, and take some pics to possibly help you out.
 

usmaps

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I added some photos of the setup. I may attempt to disassemble to access the float, but I'm going to wait and see if ProFlo contacts me back.
 

usmaps

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Yes, it came installed with the house. Please let me know all that is wrong with it? Not a plumber and have no experience.
 

GReynolds929

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Every laundry pump setup like that that I have done does not work with an AAV. The pump creates back pressure when it turns on and keeps the AAV from opening creating a vacuum. It should be vented to outside, or tied into the plumbing vent system.
 

Matt30

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Wow some goof ball plumbed that.

The washing machine drain needs it’s own trap and vent. And the catch basin needs it’s own proper vent that connects to outside air, not an air admittance valve.

For the time being you can operate the pump manually by removing the back plug from the piggyback plug and plugging it into the receptacle
 
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Just to be clear, when you run it manually instead of "piggyback," what you are doing is forcing the pump to run at all times, and not just when the float kicks the power in. You don't want to leave it this way. You would only do this if you are "babysitting" it, and would plug it in when the washer has started filling up the pump's reservoir, then unplug it as soon as it starts sucking air. Not fun. And that will only work if the problem is entirely with the float switch.
 

SHEPLMBR

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You should be dumping into a laundry sink then pumping it out. Your washer is also pumping faster than that can keep up.
 

FishScreener

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I’m an Enginerd, and would install a relay With a time delay to run the pump, with the control wiring piggy backed onto the pump power lead in the washing machine. That way any time the washing machine pump runs, the discharge pump also runs, and then the discharge pump would run for a set time after the washing machine quits pumping.
 

Jeff Handy

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That check valve is a piece of junk, and might be part of the problem.

In cheap ones like that, the little flapper inside can either jam up or break loose, and cause a partial blockage.

Also, it is not a full port check valve, so it is not allowing as much flow as possible.
You are only getting 1 1/4 inch discharge, not full 1 1/2 inch.

Replace it with a better one, full 1 1/2 inch all the way through.

You also might need to drill an air relief hole in the discharge pipe, about an inch below the tank lid, and angle it downward slightly.

This helps the pump start to prime itself.

You probably need to hire a local pro to sort all this out for you.

The home warranty “plumbers” are sometimes low bidders with little or no talent or experience.
 
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