Pump not turning off even after float switch replacement

[forwardlookguy]

Hello guys, I've come face to face with a problem I can't figure out. I joined to ask the help of the pros. I have a septic tank that uses a pump. I replaced the float switch because even after the tank was empty, the pump would still run. After replacement, I checked it after a few hours and it had shut itself off. Well I haven't checked on it in a few weeks because I thought I fixed the problem but last night I happened to check it and found the pump running with no water in the tank. Who knows how long it was pumping with no water. I know that's not good for the pump. My question is, if I've replaced the float switch, why is this still happening? The wiring is not in the way of the float and I cannot see any obstructions. The float switch for the high level alarm is working fine. I did notice that the conduit where the wiring ran to the junction box had water in it from when our backyard flooded. Does that have anything to do with it? It's not a lot of water, just where the conduit is lower near the junction box. I don't know what pump I have or what timer I have as I'm new to this whole septic tank thing so be patient with me! I'm not sure if that information is needed.

Thanks for any help you can provide! I'm getting tired of manually having to turn the pump on and off!

Arthur

 

[forwardlookguy]

Update on this situation: I noticed an intermittent buzz coming from the breaker box. It was the breaker that controlled the aerator pump. It was warm to the touch as well. So I shut it off and now the buzz is gone. How are these two problems connected? I've never had a problem with the aerator pump.

Also when I went to plug in the sewage pump, usually if the level is high (which it is) it kicks on automatically. It didn't this time. It hasn't kicked on in a few hours and now it's about to overflow. So I just unplugged everything and I'll tackle this mess after work tomorrow. Anyone care to point me down the right road?

 

[Beni]

So how many float switches do you have. You mentioned a high water float. There may be a third float which is the "Off" float. Normally if I had a larger tank to pump, I would have a high water switch, a "Run" float switch and an off float switch. mounted lower in the tank

If you have just one On /off switch, it may run to a relay in the control box maybe. That is the relay could be sticking.

Water in the conduit is never good.

 

[forwardlookguy]

I have two switches. One high level and one that is a combination on/off switch. The control box is a good place to start. When I heard the buzzing from the breaker I could also hear a noise coming from the other side of the wall. The control box is directly opposite of the breaker box on the outside. I'll poke around in there today. I think the aerator pump and the sewage pump are on the same circuit. The aerator pump was working fine but the sewage pump never kicked on. I think it could be the relay like you said or I may pull the sewage pump up and seeing if there is something stuck up in the impeller. I'll probably dig up the conduit as well and get the water out of it.

 

[IFIXH20]

To your 1st post ---If the pump plugs into the float switch , I would lean towards the float not being adjusted proper . As far as water and electrical I would think the GFI outlet or breaker would trip if enough water got to the electrical. To your 2nd post --- The pump may have burnt up from running dry .

 

[forwardlookguy]

Thanks for the insight H2O. I believe the float is adjusted correctly because when I replaced it I put it back where the original one was. And it does work intermittently. I've gone out on several occasions and it's shut itself off. It's just once in a blue moon I'll go out and find it sucking air. I'll check into the GFCI as well. And I hope the pump didn't burn out. I wouldn't be surprised though as it's run dry on more occasions than I can count.

 

[johnjh2o]

Can't tell you what is causing your problem without being there. But when you get it solved it may be a good idea to have a low level alarm installed. It just may save you the cost of another pump.

John

 

[Beni]

Odds are that relay contacts are pitted a little and sticking "welding" together now and then. Taking a small "Points" file and filing the contacts (WITH THE POWER/BREAKER OFF ) may solve the problem.

 

[forwardlookguy]

Well it turns out that the pump had locked up. The motor was fine but the pump was not turning. I was able to disassemble it and get it freed up but I'll plan on replacing it soon anyway. I just need it to get through the weekend!

I went ahead and moved the float up a little because when in the down position it was only about 1-2" above the intake for the pump. I tried to investigate into the relay suggestions but I couldn't find a relay. Is it behind the timer? In the control box there is only the timer, a 110V two outlet receptacle that the pump plugs into, the high level buzzer and something with two wires going to it. I'm not too good with electrical. Is that small black thing with two wires going to it a relay? I'm only familiar with automotive relays and they are bigger than this one. If a picture is needed, I could take one.

I appreciate everyone's eagerness to help!

Arthur

 

[Beni]

If its a small low hp pump it might not have a relay, Just controlled direct from the float switch. Relays generally have 4 wires going to it.