We have a submersible pump that is feeding a manual livestock watering system on a ranch in Colorado. It is places in a 4"steel casing in a wet well in a lake. Currently it is being operated manually with an on off switch a the pump that then feeds a series of 7 yard hydrants staggered through 1-1/4" pvc over about 1-1/2 miles. The pump is a 3 wire, 3/4 hp, Franklin submersible, installed about 5' deep in the lake . The system works well manually.
The owners would like to automate installing a pressure switch and at 2 of the hydrant locations installing auto waterers with float valves. We have pulled a loop of 12 AWG wire through conduit to the location of the pressure switch , which is about 100 ' from the pump. It had to be put at this location because of a quick elevation change of 20 feet and some obstacles like a open irrigation ditch that has to be crossed and the close proximity to 12" main feed to 2 center pivot systems. In the 1-1/4" PVC run from the pump to the pressure switch, there is an inline spring check valve installed. This was placed so that from its location, which is about 80' from the pump it prevents back drainage from the line. The 80'of line from the check to the pump drains back to the lake because it is exposed to the weather and would freeze in the winter. The check at the pump has been removed so that it will drain back when pump is deactivated. This works well and the system is able to be used in the winter. All the rest of the run of pipe is 40 to 48" deep and does not freeze and stays full due the check. The wire loop consists of 12 AWG power and ground from the breaker to the switch and 12 AWG power and ground from the Switch to the pump. The yellow control start wire is not in the loop and goes direct to the pump. The Pressure switch is Square D 40/60 switch with low pressure override on it.
When we activate the pump and hold the lever down on the switch, the pump comes on and build pressure to 40 PSI at which time the low pressure bar does not need to be held and goes into auto mode and continues to build to pressure to 60 PSI. At that point the switch starts chattering and makes the pump pulsate on and off and will never fully shut off until manually deactivated.
We would like any input or recommendations you have regarding this installation and chatter issue. We also have a few questions about our installation:
1.) Does the yellow control start wire need to be somehow routed through the switch so there is a complete cut off of power and control to the pump? Could this be the cause of the chatter?
2.) We researched on the internet the possible issue of the spring check causing the chatter. There was information suggesting to never put any kind check between the pump and the switch; also never to use a spring check before the switch, but rather use a swing check; also to put swing check after the switch?
3. We also had an idea since we have the line open to cut in the pressure switch, would it help to install a swing check just before the switch and leave the existing spring check in place, which is about 20 " upstream from the switch?
We would appreciate any suggestions you may have to correct this issue and thank you for your time and consideration.
Thanks
Bill at Corserv LLC
The owners would like to automate installing a pressure switch and at 2 of the hydrant locations installing auto waterers with float valves. We have pulled a loop of 12 AWG wire through conduit to the location of the pressure switch , which is about 100 ' from the pump. It had to be put at this location because of a quick elevation change of 20 feet and some obstacles like a open irrigation ditch that has to be crossed and the close proximity to 12" main feed to 2 center pivot systems. In the 1-1/4" PVC run from the pump to the pressure switch, there is an inline spring check valve installed. This was placed so that from its location, which is about 80' from the pump it prevents back drainage from the line. The 80'of line from the check to the pump drains back to the lake because it is exposed to the weather and would freeze in the winter. The check at the pump has been removed so that it will drain back when pump is deactivated. This works well and the system is able to be used in the winter. All the rest of the run of pipe is 40 to 48" deep and does not freeze and stays full due the check. The wire loop consists of 12 AWG power and ground from the breaker to the switch and 12 AWG power and ground from the Switch to the pump. The yellow control start wire is not in the loop and goes direct to the pump. The Pressure switch is Square D 40/60 switch with low pressure override on it.
When we activate the pump and hold the lever down on the switch, the pump comes on and build pressure to 40 PSI at which time the low pressure bar does not need to be held and goes into auto mode and continues to build to pressure to 60 PSI. At that point the switch starts chattering and makes the pump pulsate on and off and will never fully shut off until manually deactivated.
We would like any input or recommendations you have regarding this installation and chatter issue. We also have a few questions about our installation:
1.) Does the yellow control start wire need to be somehow routed through the switch so there is a complete cut off of power and control to the pump? Could this be the cause of the chatter?
2.) We researched on the internet the possible issue of the spring check causing the chatter. There was information suggesting to never put any kind check between the pump and the switch; also never to use a spring check before the switch, but rather use a swing check; also to put swing check after the switch?
3. We also had an idea since we have the line open to cut in the pressure switch, would it help to install a swing check just before the switch and leave the existing spring check in place, which is about 20 " upstream from the switch?
We would appreciate any suggestions you may have to correct this issue and thank you for your time and consideration.
Thanks
Bill at Corserv LLC
