Pressure Regulator Valve Replacement

[Turbo98]

Hello,
I have a Watts pressure regulator valve that I need to replace. The existing one developed a hole right in the middle of the strainer retainer cap which I thought was very odd. At any rate, the unit is older so I figure it would be a good idea to just replace it.

Watts told me that their LF25AUB-Z3 would be a direct replacement with no cutting and/or soldering of the existing set-up. But I have a few questions about replacing it. First off, from the pictures I sent them (below), they said it looks like it is a 1” unit. The pipe size is 3/4". So maybe these are adapter fittings at the top and bottom to adapt it to 1” threads? I’m not familiar with what I’m looking at here. I can make an assumption that maybe that is some sort of a union at the bottom. So would the idea be to put a wrench to the right on the big nut at the bottom and pull it towards me? Would that loosen the bottom somehow anc create some clearance? Then put a couple wrenches at the top and unscrew the entire valve assembly? Also, since there is not enough clearance because of the wall, I’m assuming I will have to take out the 4 bolts holding the adjusting stem assembly of the valve and take it out. I’m assuming there is no harm in doing this to the new one?

Thanks for any help and sorry for the basic questions.

Watts Pressure Regulator 2

Watts Pressure Regulator 3

 

[TomFOhio]

Turbo, that looks like it is 3/4" to me. The two male adaptors don't look like they reduce any. Turn the main water off below
the reducing valve and then open the hose bibb into a bucket and drain the water down. Open a few faucets. Take the large
union apart below the reducing valve and instead of taking the valve apart to turn it, take that union apart above the upper
valve and then you can take the adaptors out of the reducing valve and put into the new and then put it back together. Try to
find a model number or size on the reducing valve so you get the exact one. Let us know how you do.

 

[Turbo98]

Great, thanks. I appreciate the good advice. Makes sense.

Yeah, I bought a 1" valve but need to get a 3/4". They claim it will fit right in at the same height, etc. with no modifications but we will see. I should be able to get into it this weekend. If it becomes a situation where it's not s direct swap, I may just bypass it with a piece of pipe after measuring the pressure to make sure it's ok.
Thanks!

 

[Turbo98]

Also, I'm assuming there is some vertical rrom to work with when working with these unions? So if by the time I get the new valve set-up put together and installed, if it's 1/16" difference in height, they will still tighten down and seal? I'm just no familiar with how they work.
Thanks.