Orbitz Sprinker Solenoid Question

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theaxe

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Its seems we are having issues with some zoned not turning on/off properly.
Digging into the Sprinkler Solenoid 'box', I see we have some Solenoids that have the common wire connected, but the 'control wire' is not connected (i.e. there is a wire connection cap at the end, but its not actually closing a circuit). My confusion is that zone turns on, but does not turn off. From what I can tell it was wired like this intentionally, which does not make sense. (it used to work up until this year) Any thoughts? can a solenoid function properly with only the 1 common wire connected?
 

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If it worked last year and not now then it's probably not electrical, and it takes power to open the valve, but not to shut it. We have similar valves, and I think all the common/neutral wires are hooked together, and I have the zone valves in groups of 2, because we have a large pump and lake water. I occasionally have to take the valves apart and clean then out, and I suspect that's your problem. On ours there is a large nut that unscrews and the whole top come off, and then I can lift the diaphragm out and rinse everything in clean water. Ours have been working fine this year, I try not to run the system when the lake is dirty from onshore wind.
 
I have read that Orbit are not very good quality, better to go with Rainbird DV series valves, that is what I purchased for my system, at a Pro Irrigation Supply house
 
Solenoids definitely need both a common and hot wire to operate.
Ohmmeter or equal is essential to confirm power.
 
Well yes, each solenoid has to have 2 wires connected. But if the valves are opening, they must be energized. Or are they stuck open all the time? Do any of the wires look like they have been chewed off by rodents? A lot of unanswered questions here, you need to troubleshoot. If the solenoids are getting power, but not shutting off when the power ends, then you need to clean out the valves.
 
That is what I thought (each solenoid needs 2 wires to trigger). I guess some of the zone wires came off. Long story short, its working now. We found a leak in one of the pipes, and re-wired the entire box, with all the zones all in a linear row, much easier to trouble shoot which valves goes to which zone. One thing that is still a bit odd, the controller when I turn on 1 zone, I noticed 1 zone goes to 24v, and a couple other zones do go up in voltage, like 8-12v. ATM it does not seem to be causing multiple zoned to trigger, (guess voltage is to low). But may end up replacing the controller anyways as its a bit old, and my Sister wants something a bit fancier.

Thanx for the tips all.
 
Those zones that are reading voltage when they should not, are either a bad controller, or wires going out in a bundle that are not connected to a solenoid valve (or are connected to an open solenoid)
 
If I had Orbit valves and were going to replace them, I'd pop for some Rainbird scrubber valves. Current cost is around $150 each (they were $125 each back in 2000 when I installed them). During the last 22 years, the only maintenance I've done is replace 2 solenoids.View attachment 36090
 

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