Old copper pipe, new fitting

Plumbing Forums

Help Support Plumbing Forums:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

bcpjap

New Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2020
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Location
FL, USA
Hello. I have an old copper pipe in a wall cavity that I can leave exposed. It has developed a very slow leak at the elbow (see attached pic) and needs to be replaced. I have already cleaned the pipe up a bit and removed some of the exterior corrosion using a scotch brite pad and as you may be able to tell, the pipe is definitely not in "new" condition. My question is this: which fitting would be more forgiving of surface imperfections, a new brazed fitting or a push-on (aka shark bite) type fitting? Thanks for your comments/ suggestions.
 

Attachments

  • CuElbow.jpg
    CuElbow.jpg
    2.6 MB · Views: 26
Hard to tell the pipe size; 1/2" - 3/4" ?? - at first thought it was a drain line.
In any event, I'd forget about sharkbite or other quickie fittings, and cut out the old ell + stubs, and solder in fresh copper parts. IMHO that would be your best and longest lasting repair.
 
Thanks for your response. It is a 3/4" line and was to a water softener that has been out of service for years and is blocking access to the water heater that I'm preparing to replace at some point in the future.

I'll find a suitable location to cut the pipe back to and solder on a new ell. Thanks again.
 
I tried soldering as my first fix, but 2 of my 6 joints leaked. The two failed joints were the bottom half of vertical joints of new fitting/old pipe. I'm thinking that was due to my lack of experience as well as not cleaning the old pipes as well as I could have.

After that fail I went the push-on/sharkbite route. This time I spent a good deal of time prepping the old pipes and getting them as clean as I could. So far it is holding and no leaks.
 
Soldering copper needs shiny bright clean fresh metal surfaces.

Glad to hear that the Sharkbites are holding, but their o-rings also need to seal against fairly clean smooth metal.

Mineral crust will never seal well for the long term, so you might end up taking all that new stuff apart soon.

You might have to use CLR or vinegar to clean the surfaces of all pipes you need to work on.

Or some kind of abrasive cleaning.

Wrapping a pipe in paper towels or rags, soaked in CLR or vinegar, then over-wrapped with plastic wrap, can keep the pipes wet for days, as the mineral crust is gradually dissolved.

You also might have to make some new repairs much farther away from this crusty situation.
 
Back
Top