Non ferrous metal toilet flange?

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nwellinghoff

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Location
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I recently noticed a smell coming from my downstairs bathroom and suspected the wax ring. I removed the toilet and saw that the flange had a crack in it and was not level. The previous owner had also installed a new floor and the flange was "level" with the floor surface. I was expecting a PVC or ABS flange since the house was built in 1988. But after removing the wax ring I noticed when I scraped the flange it was metal. It seemed really light and not like cast iron so I put a magnet on in and no stick, so it def seems like its Al. Can't find anything on the net about Al flanges but can I still use a cast iron flange ring to fix the problem. Its a really weird flange that starts out at 4" then tappers down to ~3" all on the metal.

I was thinking about using a flange like this to attach to the existing metal flang/pipe. "Oatey 43538 4-inch Black ABS Cast Iron Closet Flange Replacement". Which can be found on Amazon. Will that work? It does not matter what kind of metal it is just that the washer gets pressure against the sides of the old pipe right?

Thanks!
 
its def a soft metal as I tapped down the bent part very lightly with a hammer and was able to level out the flange with the tile surface easily.
 
Looks like lead with a brass flange.

Better run. That can turn into a big mess

Typically I replace all of that with pvc. That requires a lot of work sometimes.
 
So dropping the replacement flange with the rubber gasket in there wont work? I was just going to go right over the top of the existing flange since its level with the tile and then screw it all down with Tapcons.
 
So dropping the replacement flange with the rubber gasket in there wont work? I was just going to go right over the top of the existing flange since its level with the tile and then screw it all down with Tapcons.
It might.
 
Would a flange repair like the one shown below help you? It lays over the brass flange and screws to the concrete floor with Tapcon type screws or any suitable anchor. No gasket is needed.

(Oaety #427782 $5.74 at hardware store)
 

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The original installer of the flange didn't screw it down to the concrete so the side of the top of the pipe tore open. My current plan is to clean and solder the metal pipe and then run the gasket flange in past the damage to clean pipe then screw threw both. E.g. seal the old pipe and have the new gasket flange provide structural support. If that fails then I guess its time to dig. From 30 bucks to 2000 bucks! :)
 
Typically the lead will just melt away, it’s so thin. That’s a wiped joint, not soldered.

I’m hoping the best for you. Let us know how it works out.
 
If you continue the crack all around the pipe cutting off the brass flange, you may be able to use one of these.

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I've used the Sioux Chief before with good success. The Oatley has an expanding mechanical seal using the exposed internal screws. But that leaves a little ledge that I would think could cause issues. You could use a wax ring with a plastic horn which I think would cover the ledge, but those plastic horns can also cause problems if they are not installed perfectly.

But here are a couple of options that you might consider.
 
The Sioux Chief looks promising. I already ordered the Oatey though. Why does the plastic horn cause problems? I was planning on using the "better than wax" rubber seal which has a deep horn that seems like it will clear the clamp ledges.
 
The Sioux Chief looks promising. I already ordered the Oatey though. Why does the plastic horn cause problems? I was planning on using the "better than wax" rubber seal which has a deep horn that seems like it will clear the clamp ledges.
I've personally used the wax rings with a horn and have never had an issue with them. But in comments in previous posts, Twowaxhack who is a great plumber with vast experience, has indicated that the plastic horn can get folded over during installation and/or when using a toilet auger. If that happens, the plastic horn will cause a blockage. And he also recommends the wax ring rather than the "better than wax" seal, and so do I.

So, if I was going to use the Oatley with the better mechanical seal, I would use a wax ring with a plastic horn, and just be very careful when installing to toilet. And should you need to use a toilet auger, I would likely just go ahead and re-set the toilet with a new wax ring and plastic horn after I get the toilet back flushing.
 
The plastic horn built into wax seals Often sit below the horn (outlet) of the toilet when the toilet is set in place.

So when the toilet flushes splashing occurs when water hits the horn. This splash of water causes leaks eventually.

If it horn wasn’t there it wouldn’t be any splashing.

You’re putting a funnel under a funnel…..personally I think the horn of the toilet is plenty.
 
Just to follow up on this. I ended up flattening out the existing flange and just putting the Oatley right on top of it. Made sure it was perfectly level with wedges, then screwed it into the concrete, then tightened the nuts to make a seal with the existing pipe. E.g. the flange is now rock solid. Installed and leveled toilet, sealed it in. Been a month and so far no leaks or smells. Hopefully it holds for a years to come.
 

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